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Does the FROR full floater rear conversion maintain the same track width? I need to do something cause between the drum brakes and the bent axles I cant take it anymore. Found a ton of info, but non addressing this question. Thanks
 

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shovelracer said:
Does the FROR full floater rear conversion maintain the same track width? I need to do something cause between the drum brakes and the bent axles I cant take it anymore. Found a ton of info, but non addressing this question. Thanks
It may increase your rear WMS-WMS a 1/2". I doubt any more. I never noticed any difference.

You'll love the FF kit. Once you get it on, (and it's easy!) having a FF rear is nice. If you are going straight to drive flanges, you can go with Longfields 4340 driveflanges, or stick with stock. Bobby stated to me (phone) that the stock driveflanges will just strip themselves and not touch a chromo axle. I would much rather have my FUSE be a driveflange/hub gear, than an axle shaft or even worse a diff or something further up the driveline.

I would defenetly upgrade to ARP hub studs, and or get the 'hendrix (sp)' mod on your wheel hubs. Again, make your fuse something easy to replace!


That being said. I broke one of bobby's 4340 hubgears (locking hubs in the rear) probably because of the temp outside (best bobby and myself can figure out, he's looking at the hub gear right now.)
 

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shovelracer said:
So the drive flanges you used are different from the ones FROR sells? I was leaning toward flanges cause I have no use for locking hubs.
I'm using the Drive Flanges from FROR, which come from Toyota. I believe they are stock Drive Flanges from a LC?

I was just giving you options, just depends on where you want a fuse! The stockers will probably be fine for you, and 1/2 the price of the 4340 Longfield Drive Flanges.

Actually, more specific. I use locking hubs in the rear so I can flat tow my trail rig. When I broke BOTH hub gears IE inner and outer on the same side... at the same time, inner was a Longfield 4340 Asin hub gear replacement. I put my drive flange on (I carry them as spares, should I break something with the locking hub).
 

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Wgasa84 said:
I would defenetly upgrade to ARP hub studs, and or get the 'hendrix (sp)' mod on your wheel hubs. Again, make your fuse something easy to replace!
Do you have anymore info on this?
 

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vegaskurt said:
Do you have anymore info on this?
Info on what? ARP hub studs? Hendrix mod? making your fuse easy to replace?

ARP hub studs are replacement studs for toy wheel hubs that clamp the locking hub onto the wheelhub. They are stronger than stock, FROR sells them. I wouldn't run stock studs unless it was a mild wheeler. Keeping the nuts tight is a MUST for any hub stud.

Hendrix mod.. basicly putting (more) new dowels in the hub bodies that fit better and don't allow the hub body to rotate if the nuts should loosen up, thus solving or reducing the chance of spinning a locking hub body on the wheel hub... shearing off the hub studs.

Making your fuse easy and 'cheap' to replace, to me only makes sence. I'd rather have my fuse (1st thing to break) be easy to replace... ie a Hub gear, or a drive flange. Busting an axle, gears or worse... t-case parts sucks. I've done them all... it takes the fun out of the day.

Unless someone comes out and shows that the FROR 4340 FF axleshafts and toy 8" gears are stronger than Bobbylongs 4340 drive flanges, I'll be sticking with stocke drive flanges and stock outer hub gears with 4340 inners. Kirk twisted the splines on both ends of his rear ff shafts (i don't know who made them) but he was running stock drive flanges from what i could tell. he ended up twisting the splines and killing a ring gear. drive flange... was fine.
 
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