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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I'm getting ready to install my lift on my 04 Xted cab V6 trd 4X4.

Lift consists of:

- custom Alcan leaf springs at 2.5" of lift
- Donahoe Coilovers set at 2.5"
- Bilstein 5100 rear shocks

I have been reading up on lifts since I joined and figured if I'm going to do this, I might as well go all out with custom leafs and the best coilovers.

Anyway, I was wondering..... besides these major components, is there anything else I'm going to need to complete this job (special bushings, bolts, etc.)??

I have an extended brake line and I am making a BPV bracket. Oh, and I was told the Bilsteins will come with the correct bushings.

Anything else I should know? Anything else about the actual install...problems ...things I should expect to incounter..etc????

Thanks
 

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idk if your springs came with ubolts or not, but you will need some longer ubolts. also my bilstiens didnt come with the correct bushings, i had to drill mine out to make them fit....but i think most people get the right bushings. other than that i cant really think of anything else that you will need......hmmm
 

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new shackles/shackle bushings help a bit. new front leaf bushings and bolts/nuts. decide what u wanna do w the tail pipe (relocation bracket or cut pipe or whatever).

front end is pretty straight forward bolt on (unlike the 882 coils i have) and unless the rear has seen a couple salty winters it should be ok. thats also the reason i said to get the bushings cause by the time we ripped my rear apart some of em were nicely fucked up. shackles are up to you but for the minimal cost (when compared to what youve already spent) you could have some greaseable ones. bpv bracket but thats easy using scrap steel and a welder or making a fancy new one or using the long bolt method to lengthen the existing threaded rod.
ditto on the u bolts but why stop there. grab a u bolt flip kit and shock mount tabs. hahaha

good luck and post some pics when you aer "finished".
 

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If your truck has been in upstate ny (or anywhere else in the rust belt) for most of its life, u-bolts, spring eye bolts, and shackles will probably be a necessity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
darwink1 said:
new shackles/shackle bushings help a bit. new front leaf bushings and bolts/nuts. decide what u wanna do w the tail pipe (relocation bracket or cut pipe or whatever).

front end is pretty straight forward bolt on (unlike the 882 coils i have) and unless the rear has seen a couple salty winters it should be ok. thats also the reason i said to get the bushings cause by the time we ripped my rear apart some of em were nicely fucked up. shackles are up to you but for the minimal cost (when compared to what youve already spent) you could have some greaseable ones. bpv bracket but thats easy using scrap steel and a welder or making a fancy new one or using the long bolt method to lengthen the existing threaded rod.
ditto on the u bolts but why stop there. grab a u bolt flip kit and shock mount tabs. hahaha

good luck and post some pics when you aer "finished".
The truck is an 04 with only 25K on it. Everything,.. as far as I can see looks in pretty good condition under there as far as the bolts go with rust and stuff. The stock shackles look good.

You think I should replace the shackles and bushings(cause bushings will get ruined in the install)??? What will greasable shackles do for me?
 

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I replaced the front bake lines as well when I installed my Hoe's up front.

time to start thinking about sliders and a High Lift jack. The stock bottle neck jack that comes with the truck will not be long enough anymore.
 

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If you can use the old shackles, they should be fine. I don't think you would ruin them in the process. Older ones tend to rust themselves onto the leaves. But at 25K, I would plan to reuse until yout truck tells you different. But one of the other guys is right...you will nee new u-bolts. And you will almost certainly have to get these custom made at a shop that does them. No parts stores carry them. Cost me about $35 for 4....hint: take the u-bolt plate with you so they can get the exact size.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
smaug1911 said:
If you can use the old shackles, they should be fine. I don't think you would ruin them in the process. Older ones tend to rust themselves onto the leaves. But at 25K, I would plan to reuse until yout truck tells you different. But one of the other guys is right...you will nee new u-bolts. And you will almost certainly have to get these custom made at a shop that does them. No parts stores carry them. Cost me about $35 for 4....hint: take the u-bolt plate with you so they can get the exact size.
Oh....I had NO IDEA I was going to need to get new u-bolts.

Is this because the change in thickness of the new leaf springs?? Also, what kind of shop would make custom u-bolts? I don't even know where to start looking.

This is going to set my install date back a little.
 

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check the size difference between the leafs and number of leafs. i dont know if you need new u bolts but instead of looking for a shop if you need them, try to get them from someone who sells blocks with their kit. that would probably work and it seems like it would be easier
 

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Tacolova28 said:
Oh....I had NO IDEA I was going to need to get new u-bolts.
two weeks ago i installed a Demello Stage 1 kit, which consists of a pair of Donahoe CO's, a pair of Bilsteins, a pair of Deaver 3 leaf AAL's, and longer stainless brake line. so a lot of installation stuff is still fresh in my mind.

i would not recommend using the old U-bolts if there is any corrosion at all, and morover you may find that the stock length is not enough for you new pack. i bought new U-bolts from Wheelers; the guys at Wheelers know how long your U-bolts need to be for a given leaf stackup -- give them a call. my old U-bolt nuts were a bitch to get off, even after soaking them daily for three days prior to removal. i still was using a 1.5' long breaker bar for every single turn of the nuts. suckage.

from
http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/tacoleafs.htm
see
U-Bolts, Replacement Shackles, Bushings and Main Eye Bolts
Wheeler's U-Bolt Set: 29.95 Includes (4) HD zinc-plated U-bolts with hardware.


a few needed things and some notes:
-- at least one hi lift floor jack, and a pair of high jack stands.
-- a small bottle jack to help put the Hoe's on; basically you have to push down on the lower arm to get the bottom joint in.
-- a couple of tubes of anti-sieze; coat everything you put back on liberally in case you have to take it back apart next year.
-- a 17mm 1/2" drive 6pt deep-well socket to get the OEM U-bolt nuts off.
-- a 19mm 1/2" drive 6pt deep-well socket to put the Wheelers U-bolt nuts on.
-- a 1/2" drive very long breaker bar. (U-bolt disassembly)
-- a 1/2" drive torque wrench, good for up to 100 ft-lbs. (U-bolt reassembly)
-- a can of PB Blaster or equivalent.
-- a box of latex surgical gloves.
-- a dead blow hammer (to align leaves, among other things)
-- a hacksaw w/ metal cutting blade (to trim leaf pack center bolt)
-- some blocks of wood (2x4 and 4x4)
-- a 3/4" dia plumber's copper pipe end cleaner (basically it's a wire brush that you put over the end of the pipe prior to sweating a fitting on). use this to deburr/decorrode the shock mounts on the truck. it will make it much easier to get the new shocks on.
-- a 1.5" long 12mm fine thread bolt and about a half dozen large dia washers. use this to get the shocks back onto the mounts. put the new shock on the top mount as far as you can by hand; then put the long bolt and washers through, and tighten to press it farther into place. finally, use the OEM bolt to fully seat the shock on the mount. now jack/lower suspension so lower mount is aligned. seat shock by hand, use long bolt, seat with OEM bolt.
-- a can of black Rustoleum spray paint. paint the new U-bolts before putting them on the truck, and then touch them up after assembly.
-- break loose the U-bolt nuts while the truck is still on the ground; otherwise you risk toppling the truck off of the jack stands.
-- do the complete front end first, and do the passenger side first. then do the BPV relocation, and finally do the brake line LAST.
-- check for brake-line-to-coilover-contact at full extension/maximum turn.
-- check brake line banjo joint bolt torque while you are right there.
-- watch the suspension droop and brake line tension while you are doing the driver's side rear.
-- after 5 days, retighten all bolts. after 500 miles, retighten all bolts.

see also
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50531
for a very helpful hint!

jim aka the wrooster
 

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a 50 $$ u bolt flip solves a lot of problems
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
wrooster said:
two weeks ago i installed a Demello Stage 1 kit, which consists of a pair of Donahoe CO's, a pair of Bilsteins, a pair of Deaver 3 leaf AAL's, and longer stainless brake line. so a lot of installation stuff is still fresh in my mind.

i would not recommend using the old U-bolts if there is any corrosion at all, and morover you may find that the stock length is not enough for you new pack. i bought new U-bolts from Wheelers; the guys at Wheelers know how long your U-bolts need to be for a given leaf stackup -- give them a call. my old U-bolt nuts were a bitch to get off, even after soaking them daily for three days prior to removal. i still was using a 1.5' long breaker bar for every single turn of the nuts. suckage.

from
http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/tacoleafs.htm
see
U-Bolts, Replacement Shackles, Bushings and Main Eye Bolts
Wheeler's U-Bolt Set: 29.95 Includes (4) HD zinc-plated U-bolts with hardware.


a few needed things and some notes:
-- at least one hi lift floor jack, and a pair of high jack stands.
-- a small bottle jack to help put the Hoe's on; basically you have to push down on the lower arm to get the bottom joint in.
-- a couple of tubes of anti-sieze; coat everything you put back on liberally in case you have to take it back apart next year.
-- a 17mm 1/2" drive 6pt deep-well socket to get the OEM U-bolt nuts off.
-- a 19mm 1/2" drive 6pt deep-well socket to put the Wheelers U-bolt nuts on.
-- a 1/2" drive very long breaker bar. (U-bolt disassembly)
-- a 1/2" drive torque wrench, good for up to 100 ft-lbs. (U-bolt reassembly)
-- a can of PB Blaster or equivalent.
-- a box of latex surgical gloves.
-- a dead blow hammer (to align leaves, among other things)
-- a hacksaw w/ metal cutting blade (to trim leaf pack center bolt)
-- some blocks of wood (2x4 and 4x4)
-- a 3/4" dia plumber's copper pipe end cleaner (basically it's a wire brush that you put over the end of the pipe prior to sweating a fitting on). use this to deburr/decorrode the shock mounts on the truck. it will make it much easier to get the new shocks on.
-- a 1.5" long 12mm fine thread bolt and about a half dozen large dia washers. use this to get the shocks back onto the mounts. put the new shock on the top mount as far as you can by hand; then put the long bolt and washers through, and tighten to press it farther into place. finally, use the OEM bolt to fully seat the shock on the mount. now jack/lower suspension so lower mount is aligned. seat shock by hand, use long bolt, seat with OEM bolt.
-- a can of black Rustoleum spray paint. paint the new U-bolts before putting them on the truck, and then touch them up after assembly.
-- break loose the U-bolt nuts while the truck is still on the ground; otherwise you risk toppling the truck off of the jack stands.
-- do the complete front end first, and do the passenger side first. then do the BPV relocation, and finally do the brake line LAST.
-- check for brake-line-to-coilover-contact at full extension/maximum turn.
-- check brake line banjo joint bolt torque while you are right there.
-- watch the suspension droop and brake line tension while you are doing the driver's side rear.
-- after 5 days, retighten all bolts. after 500 miles, retighten all bolts.

see also
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50531
for a very helpful hint!

jim aka the wrooster
Jim...man..that is an awesome post. I can't thank you enough. This is the exact kind of info I was looking for. Thanks again man!!


darwink1----> What is this U-bolt flip you are talking about???
 

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Tacolova28 said:
darwink1----> What is this U-bolt flip you are talking about???
the toyota OEM setup is such that the U-bolts are oriented with the threads pointing down. in other words, they are upside-down U's when you look at them on the truck.

axle mounting adapter brackets exist which flip the U-bolts over such that the threads are pointing up. in other words, you tighten the nuts top down instead of bottom up. hence, the U-bolts make a true U when on the truck. this mod is generally called a "U-bolt flip". note that some trucks come this way stock; our tacomas do not however.

the biggest benefit to the flipped arrangement is that underside clearance is slightly increased, due to the fact that there are not 8 threaded ends extending under the axle waiting to get hung up on a rock or stump. so the axle presents a smoother surface to the terrain. and of course, if you typically play in the rocks, having the U-bolt flip mod will make it much easier to get the U-bolts off since the threaded ends will not be mashed into oblivion.

jim aka the wrooster
 

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the stock lower mounts for the rear shocks are attached to the bottom u bolt plate on the stock set up. so basically the shocks hang a bit below the r axle as well. w the flip u get new shock mount tabs that weld onto the axle housing. the end sesult is a clean underside of the axle w nothing hanging down.
i also had a problem when stock w the leaves leaving dents in the shock bodies and this has eliminated that as well (moved the lower mounts inboard just a bit so the leaves do not come into contact w the shocks).
for 50 bucks thats an ok deal and it gets u the u bolts u would have paid 30 bucks for too.
 

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One other thing You probably will have to do is drop the center carrier bearing on the drive shaft, down about 1". I had a slight vibration when I added a 3 1/2" lift, I put in a spacer , problem solved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I totally forgot to ask about this.

And no one here has seemed to cover this....

Will I need a new longer center pin for the new leaf packs? Or can I use the stock one?

If I do need a longer one....where is a good place to get one??

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok....nevermind


Someone told me that the Alcan leafs come with center pins.

So I guess I'm ok

Can anyone confirm this?
 

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Tacolova28 said:
Someone told me that the Alcan leafs come with center pins.
if they are pre-assembled complete leaf springs, they definitely come with center bolts; you may have to cut this bolt off almost flush with the nut on top AFTER you get the leaf pack centered on the axle. otherwise the bump stop will not sit on the axle correctly and as soon as you go full compression the too long bolt will punch through the bump stop.

now then, there is a little difference between doing the passenger side and doing the driver's side. and it's one of the reasons everyone says to start on the passenger side. so gain some experience on the passenger side, then work on the driver's side WHILE MONITORING THE TENSION ON THE BRAKE LINE. you can not droop the unsprung axle too far or you'll rip one end or the other of the brake line off.

now then, you are probably going to replace the brake line anyway but try to do it in an controlled fashion rather than risking braking one of the brake line end couplers on the fixed side.

jim aka the wrooster
 

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drinkintedbr said:
check the size difference between the leafs and number of leafs. i dont know if you need new u bolts but instead of looking for a shop if you need them, try to get them from someone who sells blocks with their kit. that would probably work and it seems like it would be easier

U Bolts need to be changed every time you take them off. When the U Bolts are torqued they deflect and strech, with the abuse they take and the streching involved I would always buy new U bolts. I am surprised that the Alcans did not come with the correct length U bolts, my Deavers did. Also about the tail pipe mod, the only thing I did was take the bracket off and rebend it so that the Exh. system would not get in the way. Simple and you don't have to get out the sawzall. Oh ya lengthen the rear brake line, the stock one is cool for a while but if you go offroad and and really use your Alcans the brake line WILL rip off, just a matter of time.
 

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disconnect the sway bar when installing those CO's... and you may need a pry bar to make enough droop to get them in there... ;)

Use yer head... take yer time and be safe... good luck...
 
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