TTORA Forum banner

281 - 300 of 424 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,982 Posts
i'd use a pulley, this way the line speed is lowered and doubled the force :kewl:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,022 Posts
I'd definitely try to get a pulley involved. 300 lbs is not much pull to suck down the rear. Heck, I think each of your shocks is probably 150 lb/in, so that'll compress your suspension 1" :eek:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,157 Posts
Discussion Starter #283

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,022 Posts
I think that'll be fine if you wanna do single line to the axle. You could mount it to where you could run it out the back for mild rear extraction if needed? Put a hawse below your propane tanks? I'd have to see what you're working with, but you'll figure it out. Use a snatch block to get it up to 6,000 lb pulling force.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,157 Posts
Discussion Starter #285
I think that'll be fine if you wanna do single line to the axle. You could mount it to where you could run it out the back for mild rear extraction if needed? Put a hawse below your propane tanks? I'd have to see what you're working with, but you'll figure it out. Use a snatch block to get it up to 6,000 lb pulling force.
I highly doubt it will ever be any good for extractions. The cable is wimpy like a hand crank boat winch, and a hawse under the propane tank will give me something to hang up on. I have the room for a horizontal winch simular to your warn but I'm not willing to drop the coin for one of them. If I were to I would mount it up front and inprove my approch angle.


So whats the opinions on the aluminum skins. Should I do the sides or the roof since I have to choose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,896 Posts
So whats the opinions on the aluminum skins. Should I do the sides or the roof since I have to choose.
I'm going to vote for putting them on the top. Seems it would be more useful to skin there first. Would keep most light rain off of you, block the sun, and maybe trap a little heat. All the sides will do is block the wind some, but is that an issue right now when you don't even have a windshield?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,157 Posts
Discussion Starter #287
I recieved my longfield short side shaft and birf yesterday. Bobby sent me brand new replacements, not just a new shaft, and rebuilt birf as I had expected. I requested a couple extra stickers with my order as well thinking he might throw in a couple of the small ones. Well he added in 2 of the windshield banner sized stickers, which is funny considering I have no windshield.

I got out to the shop and installed the atv winch ino the chassis just behind the rear seat. i had to modd the roller fairlead that came with the winch but with that done the cooler still fits good as ever. I may want to add a pulley later as i couldnt get a straigh pull down to the axle as I wanted, but it may work just fie as is. I still have to wire it up as I didn't have enough heavy guage wire last night. I also still need to get the rear bumpstops rebuilt, but I'm not shure how to do it and keep it clean.

I'm waiting on my new heavy duty axle seals to come from marlin crawler, along with the spindle nut socket that I have never had before. The stock birf I put in my axle to get another hrs worth of play time took out my old marlin inner axle seal when it popped. I also ordered 2 of these seals for Mikeys axle so I should get his short side axle/birf put back in his rig. he has been complaining about his knuckles leaking even with new felts and rubbers. i'm shure the HD inner axle seal will be the fix for him as well.

Speaking of Mikey....he sold his rockwells, 44tsl, beadlocks, full hydro, and link stuff that he had bought years ago. After seeing a fellow big tired rig wheel he decided he wasnt inpressed and just decided to sell all of that stuff. A local guy got a hell of a deal, but mikey is helping to build his buisness out of the deal. Mikey allso got his cryoed r&p from bobby long and we welded up his v6 carrier. We are just waiting on the r&p to get setup, and his rig will be going back together.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,896 Posts
I recieved my longfield short side shaft and birf yesterday. Bobby sent me brand new replacements, not just a new shaft, and rebuilt birf as I had expected. I requested a couple extra stickers with my order as well thinking he might throw in a couple of the small ones. Well he added in 2 of the windshield banner sized stickers, which is funny considering I have no windshield.
If you don't find another use for one of those banners, keep me in mind. One day I'll buy some longs...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Great write up.... thats one park I need to get up to.. looks like alot of fun!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,157 Posts
Discussion Starter #290 (Edited)
Well I have spent the last couple, few months working overtime, then i got sick, and down, and just generally unmotivated couse of the cold ass temps, and all the fn snow. My buddy did some upgrades and maintence while I sat back and moped around.
I finally got up enough desire to go out for a afternoon run at the local stomping grounds, and I was plagued with problems. This afternoon outing was more of a thrown together deal and I wanst prepared but I did have a nearly full tank of propane and another partial tank, and a not broken rig so why not. I wound up having issues with my battery, er well it wasnt the battery as much as the inner fender. The old rig was wrecked and rusty when I got her, and so i patched around the battery tray as best i could, and straightened out the inner fenders and core support.it turns out my work had its limits and after cutting out for the ford shock towers and mounting a larger heavier battery in the stock location the patches gave up on me. This extra vibration caused the battery cables to come loose. As the battery cables bounced around on the battery posts the propane fuel electronic shutoff valve lost power and made the truck basically run out of gas. So i Talk a buddy into going back to the tow rig and getting the partial tank for me. After switching tanks we fond that wasnt really the issue. I tightened the battery cables, and wheeled a while longer.
As we continued around to the next section of the pits I noticed i had a tire going low. No problem I'll just whip out my trusty compressor, or will I? My compressor is in little rock with josh, so i now had to hop in another friends rig and go get a compressor from a buddys car just to continue to the next round of fustration. I finally got back again and aired up some so we decided to wheel the next section of the pits.
As it was getting dark, I stalled the motor climbing a hill. I rolled back to the bottom and when I tried to restart the truck, the motor would turn over and yet the truck would never fire. At this point it was getting late in the day and I was fustrated so I got my buddies to tow me back to the trailer. it took both of the more capable rigs in the group to get me out from where we were becouse of a muddy hllclimb, but i finally made it back to the trailer.
It has taken me quite some time to get over that nights fustration, but now i'm back at it. I sourced some beadlock rings from a local guy with a couple badass plasma utting tables. I somehow talked Jordan into selling me his spare tire rather than the new blem he was really wanting to sell. This will give me the opportunity to groove my own rear tires rather than running the over done rears I picked up origonally. It just so happens Jordans spare has about the same wear as my spare, so i will just use one of the overly grooved tires, i have in the rear now, as a spare.
The weather is finally clearing up and warming up so I am getting motivation back. i got my dash tore out and i am contemplating cutting even more. :saw: I also talked with Kerry from got propane and trouble shot the fuel system. As i was on the phone with him It finally fired and ran, but not for long couse I now have heater hoses exposed and open due to the dash delite.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,157 Posts
Discussion Starter #292
Sucks to hear your truck was givin' you hell. That's never any fun :(
Its not the trucks fault as much as my attitude about it all. I need an attitude adjustment, but things are crappy on a couple different aspects of my life, so I gotta work through it, ya know. For the things that just need to work themselves out , it means truck time, so that I'm not over stressing issues. I guess things can't always go good, and I'm suprised it took this long from the upswing I was going through the last couple few years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,157 Posts
Discussion Starter #293
I spent some time out in the shop yesterday and, after doing brakes on my sierra, ran the grinder for about 4 hrs . I got the wheels and beadlock rings ready to be mated together I hope to get em married together today, then I will have about another round of grinding to go through before I can mount my tires back up. I did find what was causing my air loss issue, and I'm shocked that these wheels havent held up to well. The outer wheel lip was bent badly on one wheel. it was prolly the passenger or drivers rear i was having issues with holding air. All 4 wheels had rash along the outer bead lip, and looked pretty rough considering no more trail time than they have seen. I blame the wheel's rough condition on my "no worries" driving style, and am gonna be glad to be getting some beadlocks back on my rig.

I also picked up some stuff to put disc brakes on the rear of my rig. i bought some weld on brackets at the local dirt track store, and purchased some calipers for an 80s montecarlo. I'm gonna use the old rotors off my 2000 GMC on my disc setup. They should work fine mounted to the back of my axle flange. i'm gonna need some new lug studs, and some sort of brake line attachment to make it all work but I'm gonna have to get with Mikey and see what studs he used, before finalizing it all. I already have 3 rubber lines in my rear brake setup so i think I may try to find some sort of way to connect straight to the calipers with hard line. I should have enough slack in the hard line to move the caliper around if I ever need to remove it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,157 Posts
Discussion Starter #294
I finally finished mounting the tires up on he beadlocks. They shure do look cool and I;m siked to get to play again. I have just a couple more small things and one big thing to square away before Its ready for takover though.

1st i need to relocate the battery, due to the inner fender/core support being rusty, and deformed in the rollovers.

2nd I need to get some bumpstops worked out in the rear to help support the load and give body roll a stopping point when the suspension gets maxed on uptravel.

And the 3rd issue is gonna be removal of the inner fenders, and possibly even the core support. This is gonna be quite involved so I'm not shure if I will get this done before takover or not. I may decide to wait and go ahead with a rebuild to the tubework on the front half. Now that I have been wheeling some with it as is I have finally decided on some goals I wnt to shoot for with a rework.
Goals are:
-remove inner fender wells and core support
-Easier in and outs for pass and driver
-tie front seats to cage possibly harnesses or just some new lap belts
-narrow a pilars so the cage has a more flop friendly shape, along with extra bracing to frame at a pillars.
-tuck winch down lower and back further to protect winch, and inprove approach angle.
-simplify wiring- this ones gonna suck. I hate wiring!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,157 Posts
Discussion Starter #295
I spent a bit more time in the shop tonight. I have come to the conclusion I was biting off to much conidering the time restraints and work I want to get done for others. I have decide to put off a few things. I narrowed down the must do items to the more pressing things. Carlton came over today and we hashed out a plan of sorts. For now I just need to get wheeling again, so we simplified some of the wiring and prolly clipped an easy pound of unused wiring, and got rid of some of the hacked in wiring that was done through the years whie adding accessories. In doing this we planned ahead and allowed for an easy redo for when I do decide to tear down again and rebuild. I also built a hacked up bracket out of some agle and plate to get my inner passenger fender back into place. I also trimmed some so the tires wouldnt have so much of a chance of rubbing and knocking the inner fender down again.

I still need to build the rear bumpstops as well as temperary dash, to hold the switches and guages. I still am in need of a water temp guage. Everything else can wait as i'm just not feeling it, but mbye some playing will change that. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,157 Posts
Discussion Starter #297
Here is the winch I mounted in the rear. I never posted any pics of it so....here ya go. :p


beadlocks done


And the current dash condition
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,157 Posts
Discussion Starter #298
Last weekend run at superlift was a good time but i was plagued once again with isues. This rig needs some attention in a bad way. I talked myself into dumping the toy axles as I am tired of the same old carnage, but after weighing my $ vs my options I'm not so shure.

I'm having issues making an executive decsion. I know I don't want full width as I like my current width. I picked up a high pinion 3rd (thanks josh) that needs to be put together for the front. I'll have to have some spacers made to allow me to use my 4cyl detroit on the highpinion 3rd. I have a friend willing to give me a 9" rear to build but I'm reluctant as I want to keep wheeling and funds arent there to do both. If I were to start building the 9" and make it work in my aplication it would get cromo 6lug axles narrowed width, new large bearing or full float ends, 35spline fullspool, 5.29r&p, and I already ave everything for a weld on disc brake setup i was planing on throwing on the toy rear. So should I keep throwing money at the toy stuff or step up?

It has become apparent that pinion deflection is the biggest issue I need to deal with. I have 2 ways to go about fixing At this point.... one... run the 9" rear with the extra pinion support, and the highpinion front(more expensive), or.... 2.... go with a ratio that will allow more tooth contact. Which option is the best for me at this point, I dunno. I have a couple ways to go about meeting my goal.

1st weld up a 4cyl 3rd for rear and put detroit in front highpinion(,this requires custom spacers for carrier bearings), both with 4.10 ratios, then buy crawler gears for the rear case...about 600$

Build 9" rear and run low pinion stuff till its gone only to build high pinion stuff. 1000$for 9" as above / build front 3rd... 400$ for gears, bearings, and, adapter to use 4cyl detroit.

I really hate to keep throwing money at the toy axles and I'm done buying 4cyl low pinion gears. I prolly need to quit weeling for a while couse if i can't wheel the way I like I'd rather just take a break.

Your opinions please?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,982 Posts
which end seems to break more often?? front or back??

thats where i would upgrade first. for some reason i thought you had v6 gears :dunno:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Michael, you wheel hard, hard breaks stuff, upgrading is kinda like the old drag racing sayin.. speed costs money, how fast do ya wanna go???
38's are about the limits of Toy stuff I think , and the way you hammer, that bumps it even closer, nothing wrong at all with wheelin hard, I have been accused of that my self at times.. building a lighter rig takes some stress off of things, and I am sure you can feel that in your rig. my rig is heavy and I can feel it... I personally think with a toy motor we need to be in the above 100:1 with a 38" tire to crawl as well as git it when needed, as you mentioned dropping your ratio to a 4.10 and adding some 4.7 gears to the rear case will help ya on the duribility of the R&P, but is that really enough? its still a 8" gear set. ( check out this)

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=228681&highlight=brian

Brian Ellinger at front range has a thread where he went back to a 5.29 from 3.50's to save outputs.. and has had good luck in a comp rig.. but of course he is running super strong/stiff diamond housings...taco diffs

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=525320&highlight=brian+comp

a 9" to me is the ultimate set up, and a route I would liked to have taken, but I couldnt afford to go that route after reaserching it, hell while were at it lets do 9" with portals :D ..have you looked at a 8.8 ford? they are pretty dang strong, available with rear discs and 4.10 gearing but have that dang c clip which I guess really isnt that big of a deal, not sure of the wms /wms on a ranger/explorer 8.8 but that still leaves the front, I think a built toy axle is stronger than a built d44 and any 9" fronts are mega $$ custom jobs.. my thinkin is get as light as possible with your rig go 4.7 rear case, 4.10 r&p build the front all ya can, arp steering/hub studs, maybe upgrade the diff studs as well, gusset it and run it.. if it starts bouncin, get out of it and try another line.. as you know bouncin= death to parts !!
oh yea..I have that tire for ya, that has the same siping as your rears.....
 
281 - 300 of 424 Posts
Top