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The timing chain and guides and oil pump are behing the timing cover, and the timing cover bolts to the oil pan with around 4 bolts.

So no matter what your pulling the cover to do the guides and pump.
You can chance it and leave the pan on just makes it s little tricky.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
The timing chain and guides and oil pump are behing the timing cover, and the timing cover bolts to the oil pan with around 4 bolts.

So no matter what your pulling the cover to do the guides and pump.
You can chance it and leave the pan on just makes it s little tricky.
I have a new timing cover so I was planning on pulling that, but all the videos and write ups I've seen I can't recall someone dropping the oil pan to do all that. Maybe I'm wrong, but dropping the oil pan means I've got to screw around with the suspension now too (or at least the diff).
 

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Yeah it gets more difficult on a IFS rig. Probably why so many people try and cheat it.
Do you have the head off yet?
I don't mean to be negative but if you get it off and find the cylinders worn or scored you will end up pulling it any way.

I would get the head off and take it from there.
 

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Factory suspension does interfere with oil pan removal on the IFS vehicle.

A 3" suspension lift provides just enough clearance to remove the pan.

I swapped the motor on mine over a long weekend in my driveway.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Mark, I don't think you are being negative. I appreciate the feedback, but no I don't have the heads off. I actually didn't get to start it, I had something come up that took priority. The surgery is scheduled for this weekend now. Going to start Friday and hope I can get it all done by Monday. If the cylinders are shot, where's a good place to have the block bored out? Should I just buy a reman engine?

When the head gasket did go, I didn't drive it more than a couple hundred yards so I'm hoping I didn't do more damage or much at all (I'm being an optimist).
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Ok so today begins the weekend of pulling the head and trying to get this thing running again.

This is the first time I'm doing this, so anyone have suggestions, tips or things I should expect to see while doing this please share, I could use all the info I can get.
 

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First thing I would do since it's your first time is take pics, pics of the way the vaccum lines are, routing, the brackets. That kinda stuff.

There really not bad to do, when you get back around it spray all the exhaust bolts with wd-40 or something like it.

Best advice is take your time and try not to let it stress you out. It happens but mistakes happen with you get flustered.

I will keep and eye on this thread the best I can to help any I can.

When pulling the head don't miss the little bolt that goes into the front housing.
Before going together make sure the head bolt holes are clean and dry.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
First thing I would do since it's your first time is take pics, pics of the way the vaccum lines are, routing, the brackets. That kinda stuff.

There really not bad to do, when you get back around it spray all the exhaust bolts with wd-40 or something like it.

Best advice is take your time and try not to let it stress you out. It happens but mistakes happen with you get flustered.

I will keep and eye on this thread the best I can to help any I can.

When pulling the head don't miss the little bolt that goes into the front housing.
Before going together make sure the head bolt holes are clean and dry.
Much appreciated. We just started and the radiator is out...working on the next step.

Think we are leaning towards pulling the entire engine out at once and then work on it with it on an engine stand...
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Engine is back in, the cylinders were in great condition smooth and clean (I'll post pics tonight). Right now i'm working on wiring and how to run it correctly. The issue I'm having is how to route the 02 sensor wiring that hooks up to the starter and a couple other things on the block...
 

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Discussion Starter #33
So here's the final update:

Once the engine was out, we looked at the cylinders and they were smooth as could be. No skoring (as you can see in the pictures later). So we put the new head on and mounted the engine back in the truck. Everything ran as soon as I started cranking the key and it ran well. Power has been restored to better than what it was even before the HG blew. Only a few things left to do;adjust the valves again, retorque the head bolts, replace the parking brake wire and replace a head light. We got the valve close cold, but after reading the forum it sounds like we should have adjusted them tighter cold then heated it up and made the final adjustment.

Ok here's the pics:


















 

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Discussion Starter #36
Parts List:
New head
New HD timing chain (metal guides)
New timing cover
New water pump
New oil pump
New plugs
New wires
New oil filter
New oil (with zinc additive as required by the manufacture)
New fuel filter
New gaskets (head, valve cover, intake, exhaust, water pump, oil pump, crank shaft, throttle body, oil pan and EGR) might be forgetting a couple
Cleaned the throttle
Recently replaced starter (3 months ago)
Recently replaced radiator and hoses (3 years ago in the summer).

So there it is...

I want to thank Yotapro's, they were spot on in their diagnosis and were completely fair about what would be needed. If the truck was worth more, I might have been more inclined to just let them dig into it. However, I wouldn't hesitate to go back to them should another of my yota's have a problem I can't fix myself.

Next up, parking brake needs to be fixed (ordered the parts today) then I'm done spending money on the truck lol.

Anyone good at adjusting valves? That's the other thing I need to do, but I don't think it's super complicated.
 

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Wow that headgasket was a lil burnt!

Good work! That went back together fast!

Adjust the valves when hot and fallow your
chilton/hanes manual and it'll save you some time.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Wow that headgasket was a lil burnt!

Good work! That went back together fast!

Adjust the valves when hot and fallow your
chilton/hanes manual and it'll save you some time.
Going to do that this weekend or sometime before. Other than that the truck is running better than when I first got it.

Kind of bummed I have to sell it...
 
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