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Discussion Starter #61
Hahaa. I saw that too. Was gonna rip on him too but figured he's prolly fed up with it by this point. :D/QUOTE]

flame away, amigo

here's the videos, best I could do with my iphone, but one's before and one's after. still not 100% complete, but then again it never will be :D





click the images to view the video on my photobucket
 

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Discussion Starter #63
i've been searching and searching, do you guys know any way to remedy a running rich condition without replacing the injectors? Also, I don't want to send them off to get tested, just to find out they're bad, in the end paying for both new injectors and the flow testing. I am going to calibrate my TPS today and get a new o2 sensor next week. hopefully this helps, cuz i'm getting about 16-17 mpg on a brand new engine and it smells of gas pretty bad. also, my oil smells a little like gas which leds me to believe the injector(s) are leaky in the first place.

any insite would be appreciated
 

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O2 sensor is a good place to start. Too little oxygen and too much fuel will cause improper/incomplete combustion. Look for intake leaks, cracked vacuum line, or maybe you missed a vacuum line somewhere. Also, a leak in the exhaust before the O2 sensor would cause that too. :2cents:
 

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Discussion Starter #65
O2 sensor is a good place to start. Too little oxygen and too much fuel will cause improper/incomplete combustion. Look for intake leaks, cracked vacuum line, or maybe you missed a vacuum line somewhere. Also, a leak in the exhaust before the O2 sensor would cause that too. :2cents:
i'm starting with a new denso o2 sensor, $30 off jegs. I unplugged the current one and if anything it ran better, with no codes being thrown.

still need a BVSV, VSV for the a/c idle up, and all new vacuum lines since the current ones are over 25 years old more than likely. Not to mention the starter's getting pretty tired too...
 

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I'm no mechanic by any means...but I can tinker a bit. But I'm willing to bet once those valves are changed and all vacuum lines are replaced, you notice a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
I have the 500 mile oil change and checks next week, so it'll all get done then hopefully. vacuum stuff might have to wait a minute as funds are muy important
 

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I hear ya on funds. I've been pissing money away on my truck too. The wife just loves it.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
i'm in the same boat man, she was just getting on me 10 minutes ago because i'm spending all my extra cash on it

my wife, not yours.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
well just an update...

almost 800 miles on the rebuild, adjusted the valves again and DAMN, if it didn't have a thrush muffler, .030 over and that cam, you wouldn't even know it was running!!! I just averaged 18 mpg on a 200 mile fill-up, taking into consideration the tires and gears do no equate to stock. Overall, it runs a little rich, even with the new o2 sensor, so i'm going to dig into the AFM this week, rebuild both the starters I have to hopefully remedy the intermittent starting click-no-crank issue.

Near future mods include:
-sending the injectors off to Witch Hunter
-deleting the EGR and all its included vacuum
-v6 brake upgrade
-chevy 63's
-remove IFS lift, replace with BJ spacers
-4.56 gears, maybe a rear locker
-eventually finish painting it lol
 

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Getting in to this bit late.
Instead of replacing starters. Look into the starting circuit on the 22re. Search posts from Big Ern on Pirate for the fix.
I had the same issue on an 87 runner, it clicked without starting. I spliced in a new power source to the starter relay and have not had the issue since.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
I tried doing that, but to no avail. A guy here on base at the auto shop helped me out, we cut the STA wiring at the ignition switch and ran it to the starter solendoid. no problems with the starter, now it's a fuel delivery problem. it'll start from time to time, but if i leave it sitting overnight or for more than 10 minutes, it'll just crank. i'm not finding any fuel leaks, except maybe in the injectors which i'm sending off to witchhunter next month. i tested the AFM - all good. I tested the TPS - don't quite remember, but it was working fine after i tested it and hasn't moved. the only thing i can think of is an old OE fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
turns out this bad boy was running on 3 cylinders the whole time, finally got around to it. my #1 injector straight did not work, so I traded my buddy with a blown 22re my extra TV for all the engine parts I can use haha. had to splice and solder in the new injector wiring, due to different plugs, but now it runs like a top. Still having cold start issues, but I don't mind carrying starting fluid with me. If any one has any input on the subject, I can post the symptoms, but seeing as how this chapter is pretty much dead, i'm not going to hold my breath. no offense to those lurking, i've just noticed a decline in activity over the four years i've been a member
 

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Discussion Starter #76
haha alright then.

Well, it'll just crank when trying to start most times, as if its not getting fuel, but it'll start right up if I spray in some starter fluid or carb cleaner. if I'm lucky ill get it to start after its been sitting in the sun for 20-30 minutes. I know it's getting fuel, air, and spark, and I know my timing is straight thanks to mark. I'm swapping out plenums today, so maybe it's just the cold start injector, but what do I know.

next, if you try to rev it to ~1900 RPM, it'll bog down like its going to die, then at ~1500 RPM it will jump back up and stay in this up-down cycle until you give it gas to break free.

finally, not sure if its just because of my shitty block lift, but when I'm driving and let off the gas and step on it again, even with a light foot, it bucks like a mofo, as if I stomped on the gas, and the axle is getting a lot of wrap. the second part is probably true though.

I gotta go but if you need any further clarification just let me know, hopefully someone knows what I'm talking about here haha
 

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Well after you get the intake swapped out let us know if anything changes but...

You should be able to backprobe the CSI to make sure it being told to turn on. Check the CSI, and coolant temp sensor to make sure they are at least doing their job. Wouldnt hurt to pull the AFM and check to make sure the door move's freely as well. They tend to stick sometimes and not close fully.


The surging is pretty common. Vacumm leak's will cause it and so will the T-body being set wrong. Try turning the brass flat head screw on the T-body inward some. You want the engine to idle but idle real high, if that screw is out to far the engine cant compensate for the extra air.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Thanks man ( ... jordan? sorry, it's been over 3 years since i've seen you all, and that was only once or twice). I'll take pictures tomorrow of it all, still waiting on my 5mge AFM to swap in.

Today I swapped the plenums, but kept my throttle body because I didn't want to swap the TPS, as I've read that that is necessary. I did however take off the idle air control valve. My idle is being kind of wierd, but I think that's because I used the new plenum and the old TB and throttle cable. I replaced all of the vacuum lines on the intake as well.

I have had none of the negative effects of the EGR removal that everyone talks about. Before I get flamed for it, my crossover plate is completely clogged, as are most of the internal passages.

I'm thinking it is the CSI time switch, because when it was hotter than dick during october when I first got it running, I didn't need starter fluid, only when the temperature dropped. Now it gets as low as 55 at night, and only 80 at the highest. i know i'm going to miss this when i'm back in PA, but the summers here a brutal.

Would how to check the CSI time switch be in the FSM? I tried finding it on ttora/yotatech/pirate, and haven't found much on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Sorry Eric, my apologies. can't blame me for trying :D
 
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