[Beave]

Hey all,

I just got done changing my oil @ 80k miles and although I change it religously every 5k miles, this time I stuck my finger inside the "oil fill" hole and was shocked to find a gritty black coating on the visible part of the inside of the engine. It's almost like very small rocks or coarse sand. What the hell is this??

I have a '02 V6 dubcab, use Castrol GTX 10W-30, Fram Tough Gaurd Filter and I have ALWAYS changed my oil on time, every time. Is this normal??

Anybody out there willing to peek under their cap and see if I'm the only one??

 

[taugust]

I just noticed the same thing on Sunday. 108+K miles. 03 V6. Not sure what it means.

 

[Mez]

It may not have any relevance to your problem, but dont use fram filters, they're worthless.

 

[Bryanccfshr]

There is a black baffle at the fill Hole. This is course and black. any material in this area is basicle not in the main lubrication circuits of the engine. If it goes into the oil circuit any grit you could feel would be filtered out by the oil filter if it got into circulation.

Is this material; rubbed off on your fingers or observed or felt on the baffle?? There is a big difference.

 

[Beave]

The stuff I am referring to stuck to my finger and appeared to coat that entire visible peice (baffle?)

Ugh... This cant be good!!

 

[Bryanccfshr]

i suggest

1. a used oil analysis to determine the cause.

2. If nothing is abnormal an Auto RX procedure.

BTW How often have you changed the PCV valve.??

 

[Josh]

I have the same stuff on my 01 v6 4runner.
60k miles and its been like that as long as I can remember.

Ditto on the fram sucks. But Ive never used a fram filter on my car(purolator or mobil 1), so its not why your car has it.

 

[Fstdraw]

I have the same situation in my '99 v-6 taco. I've used Amsoil for the last 50k. The dark,crusty crap in my motor was there when I bought the truck at 53k. Who knows.

 

[bb609]

'03 V6 w/64K miles - Just checked mine expecting to find it nice and clean as I change religiously every 3K, Castrol 5W30 and OEM filters. Low and behold, I found a few grains of sand/grit in there. Weird.

 

[roostonu]

Hey all,

I just got done changing my oil @ 80k miles and although I change it religously every 5k miles, this time I stuck my finger inside the "oil fill" hole and was shocked to find a gritty black coating on the visible part of the inside of the engine. It's almost like very small rocks or coarse sand. What the hell is this??

I have a '02 V6 dubcab, use Castrol GTX 10W-30, Fram Tough Gaurd Filter and I have ALWAYS changed my oil on time, every time. Is this normal??

Anybody out there willing to peek under their cap and see if I'm the only one??

It's rust and black phosphate or black oxide. The filler cap area is where all the moisture that is in the crankcase collects. The tin baffle in there is usually black phosphate or black oxide coated which acts as a corrosion inhibitor but with all the moisture that collects there it doesn't take long for corrosion to form. Most Toyota engines have one and most of them do it. Engines that run shorter distances regularly, don't get a chance to get the oil warm enough for a long enough period to dissapate the moisture. Engine oil takes alot longer to get to temperature than the coolant does. Engines that never get driven for long distances can collect enough moisture there for it to look like a blown head gasket.

 

[Fstdraw]

Oh, I think that clears up the mystery. Thank you.

 

[Beave]

Thanks for the insight fellas. I feel much better about it now and will ditch the FRAM filter at 85k.

BTW, Bryan, I have never changed the PCV valve. Wouldn't it throw a CEL if it was malfunctioning?

Beave

 

[RedOh3]

I just noticed the same thing on Sunday. 108+K miles. 03 V6. Not sure what it means.

Jesus man, you like to drive your truck.

 

[ciollika]

Probably not. I've never seen it happen. I would suggest replacing it, they're only a couple bucks and will help eliminate pressure and condensation in the engine.

 

[Bryanccfshr]

Thanks for the insight fellas. I feel much better about it now and will ditch the FRAM filter at 85k.

BTW, Bryan, I have never changed the PCV valve. Wouldn't it throw a CEL if it was malfunctioning?

Beave

Change it at least annually for best performance. A properly functioning PCV system will help the engine get rid of moisture buildup as well as prevent the oil from getting saturated with blowby contaminates. It's a 4 buck part at Autozone and you don't need anything but your hands to change it.

 

[Beave]

Well, I just checked the PCV valve and it has a very healthy amount of vacuum. I assume you replace it only when it stops sucking??

Thanks,

Beave

 

[shovelhead]

don't know if this applies but Toyota had a problem with oil sludging on the 3.0. Read it in a consumer reports a couple of years ago :welder:

 

[Bryanccfshr]

Well, I just checked the PCV valve and it has a very healthy amount of vacuum. I assume you replace it only when it stops sucking??

Thanks,

Beave

It's 4 bucks, replace it, the rattle test and the "suck and blow" test are virtually worthless, the crankcase can go from atmospheric pressure to vacuum to positive pressure as the engine is ran. It isn't a constant thing the pressure is pulsing and the PCV valve has to open and close constantly.
Do what you want.It's your engine. :2cents:

 

[Bryanccfshr]

don't know if this applies but Toyota had a problem with oil sludging on the 3.0. Read it in a consumer reports a couple of years ago :welder:

That was indeed a case of a poorly engineered PCV sytem(the circulation design was not efficient) as well as hotter running heads to help with emissions.

The 3.4 has a much better track record, actually it seems to be a great motor with most sludge cases attributed to neglect or coolant ingress.

 

[Bryanccfshr]

A link to educate. http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=42;t=001687