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OK...I have been watching the DR vs. Camburg post and am in the market for some coilovers since my 3" spacers make my truck ride like crap. I wheel about once or twice a month and nothing too serious(normally when the Misses starts to FREAK its time to have lunch and turn back...) but some moderate stuff ...my question is, do I need to spend the $$$ on the DR or Camburg? or will SAWs fit my needs? It seems that the SAWs kinda get a bad rap... :confused: also, would the camburg upper arms and ball joints be any benefit? I dont mind spendin the $$, but dont want to over do-it on more "performance" than what I will need.

Doug :confused:
 

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the SAWS are a very capable coilover and can hold thier own offroad. I know this means nothing but I know people who have been very happy with them...and given them a beating as well. and besides....coming from a stiff spacer to a bolt on coilover...SAW, hoes, camburg whatever...it will feel great :D
 

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dougtrd said:
OK...I have been watching the DR vs. Camburg post and am in the market for some coilovers since my 3" spacers make my truck ride like crap. I wheel about once or twice a month and nothing too serious(normally when the Misses starts to FREAK its time to have lunch and turn back...) but some moderate stuff ...my question is, do I need to spend the $$$ on the DR or Camburg? or will SAWs fit my needs? It seems that the SAWs kinda get a bad rap... :confused: also, would the camburg upper arms and ball joints be any benefit? I dont mind spendin the $$, but dont want to over do-it on more "performance" than what I will need.

Doug :confused:
More than a bad rap, it is an unfair bad rap. The deal with any of these shock assemblies is they need more cleaning and attention than a simple stock sealed coil/ strut assy. needs. You would probably be very happy with them. And face it, you can break anything if you get after it too hard. I think they are a great compromise, giving good performance, and especially a good value at $650 or so from Camburg. I believe Demello has the same kind of deal. Both of these shops say that the SAW folks work to take care of any issues with their stuff, and that seems like a good thing to me. Talk to Scott or Jerry @ Camburg about the arms; if you really need them. Kreg DID win his class in the baja 1000, with the stock arms..... they are at least durable. To say the least. :xdevil:
 

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To be honest with you, the Sway-Away 2.0 coilovers work very well and for a lot of people are more shock than they need. I would say most people who purchase those coilovers are primarily on the street so a lot of the off-road benefits the 2.5's give you aren't really seen. I know plenty of people that have the 2.0's and are very happy with them as they work a lot better than the TRD OEM stuff and a lot of the cheaper shocks out there. Remember, until 2.5's were available everyone was running around on 2.0's and having the times of their lives.

Our upper arm will work with 2.5's, 2.0's, stock etc. I would say the biggest benefit by running our upper arm is it's A LOT stronger .... and looks pretty cool too. :) You don't need to run it though, but at some point you might want to upgrade to it later if you find yourself going off-road more often.

- Scott @ Camburg Engineering
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info, my main concern with the stock arms is the stock ball joints ...at 3" of lift they look tweaked...and I dont want to have to F%^$! with replacing them if, and when they fail...I will try to post some picks this weekend...
Doug
 

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will since you have AAL that might be why ur ride is so bad...you should of just got there 2" shackles...but SAWs are great coilovers...and so are camburgs....but they both have to be rebuilt sometime...if you run ur truck hard...once maybe 1.5 years but since you don't as much...it might be 2 or even 3 years...but they have to be rebuilt someday...Donahoe claims they don't need to be rebuilt...and they back it up with lifetime warrenty...so that's something to think about...And Don't forget KINGs coilovers...they are great also...you can't go wrong with any coilover systems...it's just personal choice and what brand you want..:D
 

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has anyone ever seen a stock upper a-arm break? Just wondering because I never have seen one fail.


Doug--- Try to get a test drive in all the coil-overs you are thinking about getting. If you ride in a saw2.0 camburg2.5, and a Donahoe 2.5. you will notice a differance in performance in all three. The big question is how much is that differance worth to you?
 

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Here is a used set I have for sale.

http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1570





dougtrd said:
OK...I have been watching the DR vs. Camburg post and am in the market for some coilovers since my 3" spacers make my truck ride like crap. I wheel about once or twice a month and nothing too serious(normally when the Misses starts to FREAK its time to have lunch and turn back...) but some moderate stuff ...my question is, do I need to spend the $$$ on the DR or Camburg? or will SAWs fit my needs? It seems that the SAWs kinda get a bad rap... :confused: also, would the camburg upper arms and ball joints be any benefit? I dont mind spendin the $$, but dont want to over do-it on more "performance" than what I will need.

Doug :confused:
 

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That is the $200 question, for us desert folks. I have seen the balljoint go on my buddies' truck. But that was with 70,000 miles on it. And, lots of desert driving. I am SURE the rockcrawlers have busted one; they are unreal how hard they work their trucks. My real concern is the cv.... Kreg, do you do anything special, or just keep up on the service of them?? How long do the stock balljoints tend to last for you before replacing?? Please don't tell me 2- 1,000 mile races, plus a 500, plus...I will choke. Your direct info will probably be the most comprehensive on this ever.... Thanks, Paul.
 

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04RedLobster said:
will since you have AAL that might be why ur ride is so bad...you should of just got there 2" shackles...
2" shackles.. Man.. DON'T.. sure people run them, they kill your springs at a much faster rate. Rebuild your pack, with a 1" or 1.5" shackle lift, and you'll be much better off. Refer to my site for a write up rebuilding the pack.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Another Question, with a double cab can I still get a full 3" of lift with these, and will they sag over time? I have gotten used to my 33s and dont want to go back to 32s...
Doug
 

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Did you guys at Camburg resolve the squeaky bushing problem with your upper arms yet? I like them, but cant stand squeaking.
 

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Donahoe said:
has anyone ever seen a stock upper a-arm break? Just wondering because I never have seen one fail.


Good question? But its the BJ that Im worried about breaking.

Why does'nt anybody suggest KINGS? I love mine, they are a very high quality product with great customer service as long as you dont want a re build the weekend before a big race. they are also about $100 cheaper.
 

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blackhawk223 said:
Did you guys at Camburg resolve the squeaky bushing problem with your upper arms yet? I like them, but cant stand squeaking.
IT is the sound of Urethane :)

We put zirk fittings into the arms about 8 months ago. This topic has be covered a few months back. If you have our arms and can show proof we will mail you out for free the fittings. We also have a better bushing I designed that does not squeek when properly lubricated.

If you want these parts call us. 714 848-8880
 

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Here is a rendering of the bushing. It has grease ports and grooves through it for better grease displacement. The tolorences of this bushing are also right on with the inner and outer pivot material we are using.
 

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blackhawk223 said:
Donahoe said:
has anyone ever seen a stock upper a-arm break? Just wondering because I never have seen one fail.


Good question? But its the BJ that Im worried about breaking.

Why does'nt anybody suggest KINGS? I love mine, they are a very high quality product with great customer service as long as you dont want a re build the weekend before a big race. they are also about $100 cheaper.
Kings were the best thing around till Donahoe and Camburg came out with theres! The kings are still nice but fall short on travel (I think it might be less than stock) The main reason is king shocks are internal threaded top caps and there isn't enough room to make them any longer. But king will tell you that it's because the steering will bind?
 

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rojodiablo said:
That is the $200 question, for us desert folks. I have seen the balljoint go on my buddies' truck. But that was with 70,000 miles on it. And, lots of desert driving. I am SURE the rockcrawlers have busted one; they are unreal how hard they work their trucks. My real concern is the cv.... Kreg, do you do anything special, or just keep up on the service of them?? How long do the stock balljoints tend to last for you before replacing?? Please don't tell me 2- 1,000 mile races, plus a 500, plus...I will choke. Your direct info will probably be the most comprehensive on this ever.... Thanks, Paul.
Like anything Paul it all goes down to how you use it and what products you use. I do know this with a Donahoe Racing Coil-over it is impossible to over extend the ball joints. If the ball joints never botom out they should last the life of the truck. On the race truck we have broken lower a-arms in half before we have seen any damage to the upper ball joint. The key is keeping it in its happy spot. Same goes for the cv jonts. Never over extend them and you should be good to go for a long long time.

hope that helps.
 

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rojodiablo said:
That is the $200 question, for us desert folks. I have seen the balljoint go on my buddies' truck. But that was with 70,000 miles on it. And, lots of desert driving. I am SURE the rockcrawlers have busted one; they are unreal how hard they work their trucks. My real concern is the cv.... Kreg, do you do anything special, or just keep up on the service of them?? How long do the stock balljoints tend to last for you before replacing?? Please don't tell me 2- 1,000 mile races, plus a 500, plus...I will choke. Your direct info will probably be the most comprehensive on this ever.... Thanks, Paul.
Like anything Paul it all goes down to how you use it and what products you use. I do know this with a Donahoe Racing Coil-over it is impossible to over extend the ball joints. If the ball joints never botom out they should last the life of the truck. On the race truck we have broken lower a-arms in half before we have seen any damage to the upper ball joint or cv's. The key is keeping it in its happy spot. Same goes for the cv jonts. Never over extend them and you should be good to go for a long long time.

hope that helps.
 

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jzaiden said:
Here is a rendering of the bushing. It has grease ports and grooves through it for better grease displacement. The tolorences of this bushing are also right on with the inner and outer pivot material we are using.
just installed the zerks on another member's uppers the other day so we shall see how the work ;) I'm letting him be the guinea pig to see if I want to do mine. We did have to call and get the drill hole size and whether or not a tapered tap was needed. It would have been nice to have had that info in the kit.

the kit that he was sent had the wrong sized sheves (too long by about .125") so we wound up re-using the red bushings and thinner sleves that came with the uppers the first time around. the new kit is on the way back minus zerks and grease.

My main concern is that those polly bushings will squeek when ANY part of their surface is rubbing on a metal surface (especially the flat part of the bushing that is against the washer) and even with the zerks you can't get grease to all points. Are these new bushings you speak of that much better and less squeeky?
 

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blackhawk223 said:
Why does'nt anybody suggest KINGS? I love mine, they are a very high quality product with great customer service as long as you dont want a re build the weekend before a big race. they are also about $100 cheaper.
Ditto on the kings:D
 
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