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Hi I have a 04 3.4 4x4 5spd k&n intake camburg coilovers with 33x10.5 ats i was wondering if its worth spending the money on electric fans and or headers? i dont want to do a supercharger or turbo. Thanks for the help.
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong here guys, but I remember people talking about how their mileage dropped after modifying their exhaust systems. I specifically remember a Tundra owner telling me that. I don't have firsthand experience with stockish rigs, but I thought I'd throw it out there.

As far as cooling goes, I like clutch fans better. They definitely pull more CFM's than electric fans. If it's HP you're after, I understand, but I'd leave it otherwise.
 

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I've never had a newer yota, so take this with a grain of salt. Like they say, "If it aint broke, don't fix it". Unless you are having problems, I'd honestly just keep it stock. And this is coming from someone with a 1uz-fe swapped into a first gen 4runner... I still miss the 22re!

I do like electric fans, however, I've had to use them due to space restrictions. If your clutch fan is keeping it cool, then leave it alone, I don't think you'd notice the HP. Unless you are going to go forced induction, then I'd just leave your engine alone. You have to remember, there was a lot of engineering that went into that engine. From my experience, as soon as you go away from stock, you start to have problems.

You might find a catback system to give you more performance gains than headers, but again, stock exhaust is good!

So to answer your question: no, not worth it.
 

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When my buddy put on an electric fan set he said the only time he seemed to notice any gain was when he floored it on the freeway to pass someone (or just for the hell of it!). Said it seemed to have a little more power on the top end.

If you go headers you may get a small gain, but to REALLY take advantage of the increased flow you'd have to port your throttle body, intake manifolds, and heads as well as get high flow cats (or bypass them) and have a free flowing exhaust. Without working the block and heads your system is still restricted from breathing better. By doing headers, cats, and exhaust you just creating a bigger asshole to dump wastes out of (only very small gains).

Just my two pennies.
 

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If you take a look at the laws of physics and thermodynamics electric fans are like electric cars, they don't really work but only seem to work. In the long haul they can't if you look at the whole energy picture.
 

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It's funny how you can ask a real question and not one reply will be from someone who has actual experience with your situation...myself included.

What is it you're after? You obviously want more power, but what for? Are you having trouble going down the road right now?

I used to build road race engines for a living, and now I don't want my motors touched. Factory is simpler, quieter, lasts longer, less maintenance.
 

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It's funny how you can ask a real question and not one reply will be from someone who has actual experience with your situation...myself included.

What is it you're after? You obviously want more power, but what for? Are you having trouble going down the road right now?

I used to build road race engines for a living, and now I don't want my motors touched. Factory is simpler, quieter, lasts longer, less maintenance.
Fair enough. I'll be putting on a factory TRD supercharger, but no extra fuel, computer, or pulley mods. Just a plain ol' factory S/C because I agree that factory is simpler, quieter, lasts longer, less maintenance. That's why we drive Toyota's isn't it? To have a truck you can drive and drive without worrying about or have MAJOR service every 50K miles.
 

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Fair enough. I'll be putting on a factory TRD supercharger, but no extra fuel, computer, or pulley mods. Just a plain ol' factory S/C because I agree that factory is simpler, quieter, lasts longer, less maintenance. That's why we drive Toyota's isn't it? To have a truck you can drive and drive without worrying about or have MAJOR service every 50K miles.
That ought to be fun. I wonder though, how much maintenance will it really add to the overall package. You're right about the whole Toyota thing. The only fault(s) I can think of with Toyota motors is A- the head gaskets and B- the valve stem seals. Historically they've had trouble with both. But what car company hasn't had issues?
 

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Not to be a dick, but if you'rejust gonna toss on a supercharger you could be in for a real headache. I'd do a search on here and Google about what happens without the mods. This isn't to extract the most hp either.
 

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Hmm, never heard of anyone having valve stem seal issues....at least not on the 5VZ. I'm putting in a viton set from LC for the heads I'm re-doing now.
I though I was having issues with my head gaskets after replacing them about 90K ago, but sadly it turned out my heads were severely cracked.

I got the Anti-Ping Retrofit Kit that Toyota came out with to help. But after going over dozens of threads here I probably will get the 7th Injector kit after a while, but I'll just try to go easy on it for now. I didn't really get it to be a crazy performance monster, but just to add a little more power. I went this way because Toyota specifically engineered it for this engine rather than little thing here and there like intake and exhaust that were not really engineered as a complete system.
 

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I put some Doug Thorleys on and lost some bottom end, gained some top end. I do get the joy of removing them about every two years to change the gaskets. Donut gaskets blow fairly often too. So.... I would leave that shit alone. I do have an electric fan also. The truck will overheat if I'm towing heavy shit and the supercharger is in boost a lot. In traffic it rocks because the ac works like a jack. When I'm crawling and stuff it's great too. It also runs when I shut off the truck, thermocouple and all. so I can get out and jack around a bit and it cools the radiator and tranny while it is parked. I did notice less vibrations on the engine at idle also.
 

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I was speaking of Toyotas in general. Lots of issues over the years with head gaskets, valve stem seal in the 90's, and yes, cylinder head cracking too.

But still, I'd rather have a Toyota in my garage.


I assume you are talking about the 3.0L when you mention cracked heads and blown gaskets? I have never read, or heard of anyone having issues with the valve trains on any of the engines either? What engines are you refering too? The 22re's like to make valve noise, but they will do that forever and not give you any trouble.. I have 225k on a 2rz thats in my DD and 145k on my 3rz when I sold it.. Never once had an ouce of trouble with either.. Everything that I have ever read or heard pretty much states that every engine besides the 3.0 v6 is as solid as a rock and will out live the truck its in...

Sorry for getting off topic, but inquiring minds want to know..


I put some Doug Thorleys on and lost some bottom end, gained some top end. I do get the joy of removing them about every two years to change the gaskets. Donut gaskets blow fairly often too..

Are you running the Toyota 3 peace metal gaskets? Im dealing with my own exhaust issues (self inflicted, nothing Toyota did)
 

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I assume you are talking about the 3.0L when you mention cracked heads and blown gaskets? I have never read, or heard of anyone having issues with the valve trains on any of the engines either? What engines are you refering too? The 22re's like to make valve noise, but they will do that forever and not give you any trouble.. I have 225k on a 2rz thats in my DD and 145k on my 3rz when I sold it.. Never once had an ouce of trouble with either.. Everything that I have ever read or heard pretty much states that every engine besides the 3.0 v6 is as solid as a rock and will out live the truck its in...
I have seen 3S-FE's with cracked heads and bad valve stem seals, I have personally owned 2RZ's and 3RZ's with cracked heads, 22RE's are notorious for cracked heads, and all including the 3.0 have had head gasket problems, definitely related to the warping and cracking of heads.

They are solid, except for the problems they have.
 

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I have seen 3S-FE's with cracked heads and bad valve stem seals, I have personally owned 2RZ's and 3RZ's with cracked heads, 22RE's are notorious for cracked heads, and all including the 3.0 have had head gasket problems, definitely related to the warping and cracking of heads.

They are solid, except for the problems they have.

hmmmm..... well Im going to crawl back under my rock and be happy with my engines....
 

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My electric fans

I tried four different electric fan set-ups and wasn't really happy with any of them. The truck felt like it had a little more power at low RPM's and sometimes I thought it got a little better mileage, but the difference was tiny. All of them cooled well 99% of the time but when I would haul a load, uphill, at altitude, they would cause the truck to overheat. I finally just went back to the fan clutch and I haven't gone above the middle of the gauge since. I wasted about $300 trying different set-ups.
 

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I tried four different electric fan set-ups and wasn't really happy with any of them. The truck felt like it had a little more power at low RPM's and sometimes I thought it got a little better mileage, but the difference was tiny. All of them cooled well 99% of the time but when I would haul a load, uphill, at altitude, they would cause the truck to overheat. I finally just went back to the fan clutch and I haven't gone above the middle of the gauge since. I wasted about $300 trying different set-ups.
I think the key to a good electric fan setup is the fan shroud. A custom shroud needs to be built to keep all that air focused on the radiator. The factory clutch fan has a venturi shaped shroud to maximize the effect.

Another oversight when people buy electric fans, they don't buy good ones. A good electric fan will cost $100-$300 or more. Companies like SPAL offer some of the best electric fans, but they definitely are more expensive.

A good electric fan also draws a lot of amp current so a good relay system will be required. I've used the common electric fan relay kit available from your local store, and I have burned out a few of them. I ended up using a Ford style continuous duty solenoid on one setup because I kept burning up Bosch style relays. Modern fans can pull up to 50A so a good relay is definitely needed.
 

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Fair enough. I'll be putting on a factory TRD supercharger, but no extra fuel, computer, or pulley mods. Just a plain ol' factory S/C because I agree that factory is simpler, quieter, lasts longer, less maintenance. That's why we drive Toyota's isn't it? To have a truck you can drive and drive without worrying about or have MAJOR service every 50K miles.
IMO, Toyota could give a shit about the SC as long as its selling and making them money, and its never been offered as a factory option, regardless, they originally slapped an eaton charger on a custom plenum to fit the 5vz and started selling them, only attempt at fuel upgrade was a supposed rising rate fuel pressure reg. that didn't do anything and was ditched quickly, then they realized they were so popular that they could have a gen2(prettier looking) SC built AND throw there 7th inj. kit out there, for an additional $g which works so poorly that an entire company began around the solution to that popular SC, but without URD I would've never realized my never ending pursuit of more boost and more power, without compromised drivability......I have no respect for Toyota, go to the dealership and find out how far they will go to f you out of some $$
 
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