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Discussion Starter #1
So far I have decided to go with Toytec's OME coil lift kit. Here is what I can't decide. I did search and read for about 3 hours on OME coil lifts. All I found was people complaining about drive line vibrations (seemed to be the newest model Tacomas though) & that the coils "settle" after installed and don't keep the full lift.

That being said, should I get the 3" OME coil kit (the truck does have ADD hubs though) or the 2.5" coil kit?

I am leaning towards 3" because I will very disappointed if the 2.5" sags down to 1 3/4" (which I have read happened). Also I have a V6 X-Cab, with about a 250lb toolbox and I am a big guy (275 lbs). Plus there is a good chance a winch will be in the near future. Is there any logic in my thinking here?

I know a lot of you have more experience in this area then me and I would be very greatful if you could share some of your knowledge so I can make sure I do this lift right the FIRST time... THANKS!!!

Corbin
 

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Discussion Starter #2
UPDATE:

I spoke with someone from Toytec's tech dept. and he said the 3" 881's would settle down to about 2 1/2" of lift. He said the 3" will be fine on the cv's even though I have ADD.

The only choice I have to make is the 881's or the 882's. He said they BOTH under normal weight lift the same height, just the 882's will not sag as much under more weight. But the 881's will ride better under normal weight though. So basically if I am going to get a winch and bumper later, 882's would be ideal, but if I don't end up going that route, the ride would have been nicer with the 881's. Anyone have any recommendations?
 

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So you want a spacer lift and new coils to lift the front end? If so that will definately kill the front end, not just CVs but ball joints and tie rods too. I would get the coils (882) so that way you can get a bumper and winch and let them break in and then IF you need a spacer I would get one. Also, check with chris k or shannon, I am pretty sure that they sell OME stuff which would cut down on the shipping.
 

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I put the 882's on my truck and from San antonio to Austin i blew both CV boots (passenger and driver side) not to mention from 55-70 my CV's vibrated like a son-of-a-bitch and i hated the ride...had them for about 2 weeks before i took them off and decided next time i spend money i'll spend it right...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Toyasaurus said:
So you want a spacer lift and new coils to lift the front end? If so that will definately kill the front end, not just CVs but ball joints and tie rods too. I would get the coils (882) so that way you can get a bumper and winch and let them break in and then IF you need a spacer I would get one. Also, check with chris k or shannon, I am pretty sure that they sell OME stuff which would cut down on the shipping.
How will it kill the front end? The 881's with the toytec 3/4" spacer (it comes in the kit with the coils) is suppose to ride softer then 882's even by themselves. The 881's only lift a X-Cab V6 on average between 1 3/4 to 2" (read here). So with the 3/4" spacer, it should only be 2 1/2" to 2 3/4" of lift total. That should be fine on my cv's and ball joints, correct?
 

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No Blinn.

But if you have decided to buy Doug's stuff, then follow his advice instead of telling everyone what you want and then arguing with them.

It would be best for you and your truck to get the real OME suspension... without spacers. There are very good reasons why ARB/OME doesn't recommend spacers in addition to their coils.

Talk to Jacque or Shannon...
 

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Blinn79 said:
How will it kill the front end? The 881's with the toytec 3/4" spacer (it comes in the kit with the coils) is suppose to ride softer then 882's even by themselves. The 881's only lift a X-Cab V6 on average between 1 3/4 to 2" (read here). So with the 3/4" spacer, it should only be 2 1/2" to 2 3/4" of lift total. That should be fine on my cv's and ball joints, correct?
I am at work today, please call me, I will be more than happy to help you with the suspension components. 866 233 4305

Jacque
 

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Discussion Starter #8
valkyrie said:
No Blinn.

But if you have decided to buy Doug's stuff, then follow his advice instead of telling everyone what you want and then arguing with them.

It would be best for you and your truck to get the real OME suspension... without spacers. There are very good reasons why ARB/OME doesn't recommend spacers in addition to their coils.

Talk to Jacque or Shannon...
I was not trying to argue, I am simply trying to understand why it is not a good idea. I know most of you know more then I do, thats why I am asking questions. I simply want to make sure I understand what I am getting so that I lift my truck the correct way the FIRST time.

Thank you Valkyrie for clearing up the spacer and OME coil thing... so short of coilovers, is there any coils that will lift the truck approx. 2 3/4" to 2 1/2" and not ride like TOTAL crap? Again thank you all for your patience and input.
 

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OME's will get you in that neighborhood.

I hear a lot of people fuss about measuring lift with a micrometer, and I will tell you that you will will find that 1/4 to 1/2 inch doesn't mean a damn thing on the trail, unless it to the high side, in which case you will develop CV issues (boot gooving, tulip seperation) or suspension issues (BJ's, TRE's).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So do you think I should run 881's or 882's alone (no spacer)? If I have to replace the shocks in the front with some bilstiens or OME comfort shocks to improve the ride, I don't mind doing that.
 

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Since you are a husky lad, and adding a winch, I would use the 882's.

All springs sag, it is a fact of life, The speed at which they wear is dependent on many factors- primary of which is how often you wheel (cycle the suspension).

You will need longer struts like the OME's.

Talk to Jacque, he's been in OME a long time and will steer you right.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Valkyrie, lets say I can get 882's, longer rear procomp shocks, Alcan AAL (2"), axle shims, and a BPV kit for about $350 shipped. Or...

I can get used Sway Aways 2.0's, longer rear procomp shocks, Alcan AAL (2"), axle shims and a BPV kit for about $550 shipped.

Is the Sway Away setup going to be worth the extra $200 or do you not think it is worth it personally?

Anyone else want to throw in their two cents here, because this is what I have narrowed it down to. I would have gone with the OME setup, but the opportunity for the Sway Away's unexpectedly introduced itself at the last second.
 

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Blinn79 said:
Valkyrie, lets say I can get 882's, longer rear procomp shocks, Alcan AAL (2"), axle shims, and a BPV kit for about $350 shipped. Or...

I can get used Sway Aways 2.0's, longer rear procomp shocks, Alcan AAL (2"), axle shims and a BPV kit for about $550 shipped.

Is the Sway Away setup going to be worth the extra $200 or do you not think it is worth it personally?
Ditto on the shims, and the BPV is just a 3" piece of metal with 2 holes drilled in it (value = 0)- you can put a little bend in the rod and get the same effect. So now, you are basically at 882's without the correct struts ($60 spring + 120 strut x 2 = $360) plus crappy shocks ($40 x 2) and an AAL ($60 x 2) totaling about $500.

So basically, you are $550 swapping in used SAWs with unknown spring life left and may or may not need rebuilding (I don't care what the seller says).

New vs. New I'd take the SAWs, but the used factor is important. The extra $50 could turn into a couple of hundred, but overall the SAWs (as with most any adjustable coilover), is going to give better performance, but not necessarily longer life, over the OME.

I dunno- your call I guess.
 
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