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Discussion Starter #1
Been toying around with the idea of getting a 1st gen 4runner at the start of the new year. Even though it would be really nice to have a solid axle, IFS would work for what I was planning on using it for. I would also like to have the 22re instead of the 6. Basically I was just wondering about this craigslist add.

Anyone know any information on this rig?
How much would you pay for a SAS?
What are specific things to look for in a SAS as problem areas (cutting corners and such...)?

Thanks guys here is the link

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2692104456.html
 

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That thing better be 100% rust free and perfect. I didn't know Allpro used dual shocks in the sad kit they sell. Hmmmm
 

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the price is high IMO.

As for what to look for when buying a SAS, the build (any build for that matter) can be screwed up in many, many, many different ways. I'll start a list of things I would check but I don't have time to make sure it's comprehensive:

1) Check all welds. Usually you can spot a really bad weld, but I think it takes some experience to spot welds that don't look great, but are good enough.

2) steering geometry. Specifically caster, making sure all the steering linkage clears at full stuff/droop and checking the pinion angle.

3) shackle angle. If the shackles are too vertical, it will ride very rough and will won't flex well and you'll have reduced down travel. If they are too horizontal it will be very soft and you will probably end up with a bit of body roll, it won't be quite as stable in off camber situations and your up travel will be limited a bit.

4) Frame plating around steering box

5) Axle condition: trunion and axle bearings. hub and knuckle studs (any missing? any monkey business with welding arms to knuckles etc). is the axle housing bent.

These are just a few things that came to mind right away
 

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Checkout this thread:

http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=179274&page=2

The cost of my SAS is post #37.

SASing a rig ain't cheap!

Mine was basically putting the 85 housing undernieth, lifting it and installing different length driveshafts.

It all depends on how hard you plan on wheeling your rig, if you plan on wheeling it hard reinforce everything.

Also how big of tires do plan on running, again that will determine how much beefing up of the drive train you need to do.

According to Toyota Engineers, 35" tire is the limit for stock drive train, ie: axles and such. If you go bigger you will need to beef up other components or go with Dana axles.

At least this has been my limited experience with it so far. :2cents:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the input guys, guess that all makes sense to me and "it depends" is kind of what I thought my answer to the question would be.

I know that SAS can be expensive, but isn't it like everything else where the total amount of money put into the rig does not directly translate into that much extra when selling the truck?
 

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I like it from what I can see. Price isn't too bad seeing that it's obo and can get it a little cheaper. 6" lift is a little too high for me. Has A/C.
Add front locker, 4.7 and a front bumper, it should be a very capable and fun rig. At least a good start. :2cents:
 

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True that it does cost a bit to SAS a truck.

It does not cost that much to buy a SAS'd truck. There's ALOT of money lost when selling a rig.

Personally, I would be looking at 3k tops (especially in this market) unless there was ALOT of upgraded parts (lots of cromo upgrades in the axles and t-cases, beadlocks, etc) and the work was cherry.

Seeings how it doesn't have the front locker, front bumper, 4.7's (does it even have dual t-cases?), I think 3k is generous. Tho it does have 37" old style MTR's, so that's a plus. 3000-3500 is where I'd shoot for if it were me. Might be worth more, but without seeing it in person and not having any photo's, it's hard to say.

Also, we haven't even mentioned checking for when the head gasket was done.
 

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Also, we haven't even mentioned checking for when the head gasket was done.
Good point there Doug.

However since its an 88, Toyota used a different material for the head gaskets and were less prone to blowing.

Troy informed me on this. I also contacted Toyota directly to see if it was brought in for the recall, it didn't need to because of the HG material.

Thats not to say that it cannot be blown. I'm proof of that. :rolleyes:

Just make sure the cooling system is working 100%
 

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Those 4.88s are going to hate the 37s; believe me... 35s are easier on 4.88s or step up to 5.29s like the cool kids. What headers, +1 for ??dual shocks?? and check the isntallation of that SAS. What proof for the Eaton locked besides a recipt? Lift-n-spin technique doesn't mean it's locked; could be welded or another cheaper locker/spool.

I'm with Doug on the price: $3-3500 area if the work is legit and such. Is that chunk of wood by the LF tire because the park brake doesn't work? Something to check out... also the MTRs; how old are they: check the DOT number (molded into sidewall on one side) the last four numbers are the week and year the tire was made. Example:

DOT **** @@@@ 2505

First 8 digits are plant/shift/style etc but last 4=25th week of 2005 in this exapmle.

Dig it?

>>Dan
 

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You have seen my truck, I picked it up for 3k out in California. Granted I was living in Nevada, but you could justify flying to pick up a rig if you were sure it would make the trip back!
 
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