Help with my brakes!!
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You can purchase a rebuild kit for them for a few bucks, they are easy to rebuild and will be almost as good as new. This doesnt answer your question, but its easier to pop them out then compress them. It souunds to me like they are binding, trying to go in crooked.
WILD YOTE said:I was installing new pads and rotors on my taco tonight, and one of the pistons on the l/f caliper got stuck. I cant compress it to re-install the pads. I'm totally pissed!
this probably isnt the best advice, but when changing my pads once, I compressed 2 pisions and a third pushed out to far where it got stuck. I just used a big c-clamp and it popped back in. Never had a problem even though fluid escaped from the seal when it overextended. I bled the lines and no problems for almost 20k.
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Did you remember to remove the M/C cap before compressing your calipers?
I had the same thing happen to me but I took a good look at my calipers and they basically needed replacing, dust boots were torn and the pistons were out of true as well, hence the binding. I had 93K on them as well. If you have problems tomorrow, I would suggest buying new calipers, they are only $80 with the core and you can get a lifetime warranty and piece of mind. Brakes aren't something you want to compromise. Good luck.
WILD YOTE said:I was installing new pads and rotors on my taco tonight, and one of the pistons on the l/f caliper got stuck. I cant compress it to re-install the pads. I'm totally pissed!
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Well, I think I fixed it. I took the boot off of the bound up piston. Then I put air through the caliper to pop out the piston. I got the surface rust off the piston and slapped it back together. It seems to be functioning well. I'll have to do a couple road tests though. Watch out for a lifted green Tacoma tonight if your'e my way.
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Free bleed it with master cylinder lid off, just make sure you keep the fluid level full. Free bleed is opening the screws and letting gravity do the work, you will still need to force out small bubbles by bleeding conventionally.
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attach a piece of hose (vacuum line,etc.) to the bleeder, put the other end in a jar, jug of brake fluid. Crack the bleeder & pump the pedal LIGHTLY. Air goes out & sucks the fluid back in from the jar.
WILD YOTE said:
If the boot was in bad shape it may not have sealed correctly and you will "suck" air in through this way and keep getting air in the lines. That's why I suggested replacing them if they look comprimised at all. Not saying this is what's happening, but it could be, it just shouldn't be that tough to bleed the lines unles there is some sort of compromise. If they worked fine before you took them off, ie the system was not damaged, then the calipers are really the logical thing to point to. Good luck.
I usually use the old spent brake pads and a c-clamp to compress the calipers. But it depends on how bad they are stuck. I wound up putting 2 new calipers on my fj40 last summer because only 2 out 4 pistons on each caliper were functioning. And the bores were scored up way too much for me to even bother attempting a rebuild. Reman calipers were $40 each from napa for the old cruiser.nastynate said:
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I just tried to gravity bleed the lines and it seemed to work OK. But now I don't have any brake pressure at the pedal. I tightened the bleeders down, filled the m/c with b/f. The m/c didnt seem to be completely empty, so I dont think air got into it. Maybe I should bleed the m/c just in case.
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I want to do my break on my 2001 dcab. I can get the rotors and pads from autozone, but I have never done breaks on the Tacoma. Is there an instruction sheet somewhere I can follow?
Thanks.
Rick
Thanks.
Rick
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