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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm installing my Hella 500s with a 4x4mods rocker switch. I bought the On/Off/On switch so I can have a manual on and a headlight sensed on position. If I use the switch that came with the Hellas, it works fine. I just can't figure out the wiring for the 4x4mods switch.

I have it wired up as illustrated here.
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showpost.php?p=841367&postcount=64

Here is the 4x4mods switch wiring diagram.
http://4x4mods.com/Product/Jeep/Rockerswitches/rockerswitch40.html

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I keep blowing fuses. :xsmash:
 

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I'm installing my Hella 500s with a 4x4mods rocker switch. I bought the On/Off/On switch so I can have a manual on and a headlight sensed on position. If I use the switch that came with the Hellas, it works fine. I just can't figure out the wiring for the 4x4mods switch.

I have it wired up as illustrated here.
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showpost.php?p=841367&postcount=64

Here is the 4x4mods switch wiring diagram.
http://4x4mods.com/Product/Jeep/Rockerswitches/rockerswitch40.html

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I keep blowing fuses. :xsmash:
send him (4x4mods) an email with your question; he is very helpful with wiring up his stuff ;)
I was in the same boat a while back trying to run two different light groups off one switch and he sent me hand drawn diagrams.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've sent an e-mail to 4x4mods.com, but I was hoping to get this installed before I head home today.

Here is they way I think it should work. Any input?

Pin 1 = none
Pin 2 = Ground
Pin 3 = none
Pin 4 = Constant Power (+12V)
Pin 5 = to Relay
Pin 6 = Headlight Sensed (+12V)
 

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Going John Galt
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I've sent an e-mail to 4x4mods.com, but I was hoping to get this installed before I head home today.

Here is they way I think it should work. Any input?

Pin 1 = none
Pin 2 = Ground
Pin 3 = none
Pin 4 = Constant Power (+12V)
Pin 5 = to Relay
Pin 6 = Headlight Sensed (+12V)
I think you need to run 2 relays but I just can't remember what all he sent me on that...been a couple years.
 

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I think you need to run 2 relays but I just can't remember what all he sent me on that...been a couple years.
I was thinking 3! :eek: because you need the two relays to isolate the switch and it's issues due to the internal LED's...and then those two would drive the power relay that would separate the electrical 'signal' from the higher current to drive the lights... It would be simpler for him to either use two of the lighted switches each powering an output relay, or try disconnecting the ground (pin2) on the switch and that might cure the blowing of the fuses, but there'd be no lights on the switch. the OP's switch is what's making this complicated!
 

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I was thinking 3! :eek: because you need the two relays to isolate the switch and it's issues due to the internal LED's...and then those two would drive the power relay that would separate the electrical 'signal' from the higher current to drive the lights... It would be simpler for him to either use two of the lighted switches each powering an output relay, or try disconnecting the ground (pin2) on the switch and that might cure the blowing of the fuses, but there'd be no lights on the switch. the OP's switch is what's making this complicated!
there is a specific way to wire it but I just don't remember.
 

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I've sent an e-mail to 4x4mods.com, but I was hoping to get this installed before I head home today.
Here is they way I think it should work. Any input?
Pin 1 = none
Pin 2 = Ground
Pin 3 = none
Pin 4 = Constant Power (+12V)
Pin 5 = to Relay
Pin 6 = Headlight Sensed (+12V)
forget about the switch LEDs for a moment.

try this:
pin 1 = from headlight sensed +12V.
pin 2 = to relay.
pin 3 = constant power +12V.

pin 4, 5, 6 = no connection.

i have one comment: if i am not mistaken, the stock tacoma headlights *may* be wired with the relay in the ground path. in other words, the relay is downstream of the load (headlights) rather than upstream. when you turn on the lights and the relay closes, the circuit to ground is completed. this is sometimes called a "switched ground" or "low side switched" setup.

check the above with Sir Dick Foster. the problem that this would pose for you is that the "from headlight sensed +12V" is ALWAYS on. if that is the case, i will work up another way for you to do what you are trying to do.

jim aka the wrooster
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
try this:
pin 1 = from headlight sensed +12V.
pin 2 = to relay.
pin 3 = constant power +12V.

pin 4, 5, 6 = no connection.
I'll try this scenario later on tonight to see what happens.

I know that I tapped into a Green/Red (I believe) wire below the dash. I tested this wire with my DMM, and it only showed +12V when I turned my brights on. I was just using the chassis as ground for this test. Would this contradict your statement about the "switched ground" setup? BTW, thanks for responding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
EDIT: From what I've found on google, Toyota does use a ground-switched system for its lights.

Here are the results from my testing.

Test One

Pin 2 = Relay
Pin 3 = Constant +12V
Pin 1,4,5,6 = empty

Off Position = LED off, Hellas off
Up Position = LED on, Hellas off
Down Position = LED off, Hellas on

Test Two

Pin 1 = Brights Headlight Sensed
Pin 2 = Relay
Pin 3 = Constant +12V
Pin 4,5,6 = empty

***Bright's Turned Off
Off Position = LED on, Hellas off
Up Position = LED on, Hellas off
Down Position = LED on, Hellas on

Test Three

Same Pin config as Test Two

***Bright's Turned On
Off Position = LED off, Hellas off
Up Position = LED off, Hellas on
Down Position = LED off, Hellas on
 

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Test Two

Pin 1 = Brights Headlight Sensed
Pin 2 = Relay
Pin 3 = Constant +12V
Pin 4,5,6 = empty

***Bright's Turned Off
Off Position = LED on, Hellas off
Up Position = LED on, Hellas off
Down Position = LED on, Hellas on

Test Three

Same Pin config as Test Two

***Bright's Turned On
Off Position = LED off, Hellas off
Up Position = LED off, Hellas on
Down Position = LED off, Hellas on
ok, the above looks like what you wanted, correct?

(besides the LED status, which we were temporarily ignoring).

jim aka the wrooster
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes, there are. Do you want a picture of it or the diagram on the side?
 

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Yes, there are. Do you want a picture of it or the diagram on the side?


we are good to go from here. the "X" on the back of the switch was put there for a different application than you have. although we have the basic functionallity you wanted, per your post above, the connections made by that "X" will prevent you from getting the LEDs to work correctly.

so with that, i will now tell you how to get the LEDs to work correctly.

disconnect the switch from all of the truck wiring.

now cut, unscrew, whatever the "X" from the back of the switch. there may be a convenient place to introduce a pair of side cutting pliers; or maybe you have to work at it for a bit. don't pry at the terminals themselves -- that might hose up the switch internals; just undo the "X" connections in the easiest way possible. you could just cut out a small section of the metallic conductor; then, if you ever wanted to reuse the switch for a different application, a small blob of solder will put the "X" back in place.

once the "X" is out of the picture, we are ready to reinsert the switch into the truck wiring:

here are the complete connections:
pin 1 = from headlight sensed +12V.
pin 2 = to relay.
pin 3 = constant power +12V.
pin 4 = no connection.
pin 5 = ground.
pin 6 = no connection.

this differs from the wiring i originally gave you a few posts back by only the addition of ground on pin 5.

now try the same tests as before. the LED should be on when the hellas are on, and only then.

the only slight issue that i can foresee is that the switch positions have a 50/50 chance of being "upside down" from what you want or what the markings on your switch may indicate. if that's the case, just reverse the connections to pins 1 and 3 and all will be fixed. it sounded like it may have worked out right the first time though.

good luck.

jim aka the wrooster

ps:
by the way, your original testing and documentation thereof made finding a solution much much much easier. most folks just write "it didn't work -- now what?", which is of course most unhelpful when trying to troubleshoot electrical or other similar problems. you went the extra mile and you should be applauded for this. good job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'll try this out tomorrow and let you know the results. I actually bought two switches (Driving Lights and Rear Lights) from 4x4mods so I'll test this out on the rear lights switch as I will be doing the same thing when I add rear lights, similar to what you did.

Also, I really do appreciate you taking the time to help me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well, I have some bad news. I cut the "bridge" from Pin 1 to Pin 6 and from Pin 3 to Pin 4. I then installed the wires as stated. As soon as I flipped the switch, I blew a fuse. I do not have any mores fuses with me at the moment to do further testing.

I did take a couple of pictures of the back of the switch if you would like to see them. They are kind of blurry because the camera at work is a piece of crap.
Pic 1
Pic 2
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ok, you forgot to mention there were diodes on the back of the switch too. :) :) :)

cut the diodes away, they are the source of the problem.

jim aka the wrooster
Ok. I kind of assumed that but wanted to hear it from you first. I'll give that a try this evening. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Everything works fine now. Finally. I would like to give a big thanks to wrooster for his assistance and patience.

The final solution was removing the bridge from Pin 1 to Pin 6 and from Pin 3 to Pin 4. I just used some wire cutters and cut both of them in the middle and bent them out of the way. Then I had to disconnect the diodes that connect Pins 4 and 6 to Pin 2. I simple heated up the existing solder and pulled the wires out. This way I can always reinstall the diodes if I ever need to. From here, I connected the Hella's relay to Pin 2, the constant +12V to Pin 1, the headlight sensed +12V (brights only) to Pin 3, and ground to Pin 5.
 
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