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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Who's kit is best ... probably all about the same ... so who's kit is cheapest for '85 stock toy fronts?

Seems like somebody (TrailGear?) was $100 cheaper than the others. Wonder why?
 

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I run the TG kit they are the cheapest at $299.. They are cheaper cause they us cheap TREs and not AISINs like Marlin. As they are also cast like the cheaper marlins. I wouldn't mind having the 6 stud arms and knuckles though.

The Best would be OTT or 4x4 labs billet ones.
 

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I run the TG kit they are the cheapest at $299.. They are cheaper cause they us cheap TREs and not AISINs like Marlin. As they are also cast like the cheaper marlins. I wouldn't mind having the 6 stud arms and knuckles though.

The Best would be OTT or 4x4 labs billet ones.

Ditto, Real cheap TRE. The ones they sell are aftermarket with zerk fittings for grease instead of the OE AISIN's w/o. Yotaman (Greg) had a new set wobble so bad it made his truck unstreetable home from RR last year. We had to pull mine off and swap them in on the side of the road to get him home...

My HS kit was from Allpro many moons ago.
 

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I got Sky manufacturing's kit and have been happy with it. The arms are beef.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I need some pics of high steer ... especially from drivers side of the steering box. Stupid Trail Gear ships stuff out sans instructions ... to me. Pics of thier IFS steering box mount installation would be nice too. Which plate goes on which side of the frame (one's a lot thicker than the other)?
Do I need a stabilizer now? If so I need pics of that too.
HELP!
THANKS!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
10-4. The issue is: I think my ARB bumper prevents me from sliding the box as far forward as AllPro's all verbal (no pics) instructions.
 

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Ed,

From what I've seen/read, you go as far forward on the frame as possible. Also read where the front spring mount likes to crack so might consider reinforcing while your there. The only mystery to me is the angle of the gearbox. I've seen the input shaft parallel with the frame and at angles. Not sure which works best... not that I have any experience with any of it.... just passing on the info.

http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69617
 

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I'll get you some pics of mine if you still need them. It's an 82-83 pickup so my frame is shorter in the front that runners and 84-85 trucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
36s and front locker = hydro-assist steering. Marshall meet up w/ a guy at river rock w/ trail gears hydro set up. Ask him about it, I didn't get any of the details on it.
AAARRRGGGHHH! But the root formula says: ARB front locker+Longfields+HighSteer=0$:eek:
 

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I think you need to assemble the high steer on the axle and then figure out where to place the steering box. All of this geometry will determine death wobble/responsive enough steering, too. That's just my though, anyways, and after winging it on the 82, it seems to work pretty well for me and I didn't move my steering box as much as I could have. I got the drag link and tie rod as close to parallel as possible but still be able to clear the zerks, no problems. This should leave you with as good of suspension/steering geometry as possible, for an off road rig. But, you need to make darn sure that everything will clear!

IMHO, don't buy anyone's steering box plates, just make your own, it's cheaper and I think stronger. We re-inforced ours at several points where I just thought the kits I saw could have been a lot better. for about $20 in materials from Metal Supermarkets and a few hours fab time, mine is never going anywhere it shouldn't!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I think you need to assemble the high steer on the axle and then figure out where to place the steering box. All of this geometry will determine death wobble/responsive enough steering, too. That's just my though, anyways, and after winging it on the 82, it seems to work pretty well for me and I didn't move my steering box as much as I could have. I got the drag link and tie rod as close to parallel as possible but still be able to clear the zerks, no problems. This should leave you with as good of suspension/steering geometry as possible, for an off road rig. But, you need to make darn sure that everything will clear!

IMHO, don't buy anyone's steering box plates, just make your own, it's cheaper and I think stronger. We re-inforced ours at several points where I just thought the kits I saw could have been a lot better. for about $20 in materials from Metal Supermarkets and a few hours fab time, mine is never going anywhere it shouldn't!

Are U running a stabilizer? How's it work w/out the HYDRO A$$I$T?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·

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Slick indeed!!
 
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