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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
and no stock mudflaps used in this fabrication.... :D



Material list:

4 - 6" "T" framing connectors
24" - 2" "C"-channel (cut to length)
12" - 1" x 1/8" flat steel
4" - 1/2" all-thread rod
1 - 2" x 1/2" bolt
3 - 1/2" jam nuts
4 - 1/2" lockwashers
2 - 1/2" wing nuts
2 - 1/2" washers
26 - flat head 10-32 fine thread bolts and nyloc nuts

Forward bracket


Simply bent the framing connectors in the bench vise. Enlarged the four existing holes in each bracket where I connected the two together using the 10-32 bolts and nylocs. Drilled a 1/2" hole for the all-thread. Two jam nuts and a lockwasher secures the all-thread. 13/64" hole drilled through the all-thread for the lock. Flat washer, lock washer and wing nut secures the jack. 7 of the 10-32 bolts and nylocs attach the bracket to the bed rails and through the wheelwell. 6" of 1" flat steel provides backing support behind the rail.

Aft bracket


After bending the framing connectors, I cut the necessary length of the 2" "C" channel and bolted the three pieces together using 8 more 10-32 bolts and nylocs. Another 1/2" hole, the 2" x 1/2" bolt, lock washer and jam nut provides the aft jack mount point. This bracket attaches to the bed rail (with another 6" x 1" support) and through the floor of the bed. 6" of the "C" channel is used to provide backing support under the bed



w/o the jack


Looking down from above


I spent maybe $40 at HD for some of the material. The rest I had laying around...

Just need to remove brackets, grind a few areas, prime/paint and reinstall...
 

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Good thinking! I like the idea of putting it there as opposed to at the front of the box, nice and out of the away too.
 

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No mudflaps! :eek: ...How is it even considered a mod without mudflaps? :D
j/k.


It looks great!
I really like it, and the lock is a nice idea.
 

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Good idea, I might add a suggestion that is strictly for aesthetics. I would run the tops underneath the rails, you might need to space out with an extra piece of flat strap for the rolled lip but the holes are already there and it would make it a much cleaner install. You would only see the bolt heads on the rails, rather than the strap.

Good job, might have to do this myself.
 

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Good job, Rick! :kewl:

That looks nice and clean, and professional, and it's a GREAT solution for those (like me) who don't have access to a welder, or torch, etc, etc...

Paint that sucker, and it will look awesome!
 

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This is awesome, I think I am going to do this. Simple and effective. Did you try and tuck it any closer up under the rail or would the hi-lift hit the side of the bed?

At any rate, it's awesome.

What is the 90* brace thing in the drivers side corner? (in the 5th pic)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yup, no welder :( (one of these days) - so I simply make do with what I got. :)

It's about as close to the inner bedsides as you can get. The lifting portion of the jack is probably 1/4 - 1/2" from the sheet metal at it closest point.

That 90 brace is left over from the original owner. He had a SnugTop cover on the truck.

Thanks for the props guys!

Rick
 

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Ribbed mudflaps - for her pleasure!
 

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Wow, this looks even better than the Lowe's hi lift mount!

great location: saves space and easy to reach! Nice!
 

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I have a question and i am not trying to be a mood killer but couldnet some one just take it i mean i know u have a lock on it but would it do much good when all u need is a screw driver but maybe i am wrong but hey i think it looks great maybe give it a nice paint job
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have a question and i am not trying to be a mood killer but couldnet some one just take it i mean i know u have a lock on it but would it do much good when all u need is a screw driver but maybe i am wrong but hey i think it looks great maybe give it a nice paint job
No moods killed here :) - It's a cheap-ass lock anyway, wouldn't stop someone determined to take it. It'd be faster to bust the lock, than to remove the screws, which have nyloc nuts - so yeah, phillips and a small wrench would be required to unbolt...

The jack doesn't ride there 24/7 - only when I go wheeling.

Appreciate the concern/comment - that's what this place is all about. :)

Rick
 

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Looks great Rick!

It might even work with my cab over camper. :D

Be sure to post up pictures after you paint it and keep in mind that were going to need trail report updates on how it holds up.

Oh, and you might want to touch up all those extra holes you have drilled into your bed rail. Another thing to consider is that if you decide to Rhino line your bed in the future, you may want to paint the brackets black right out the gate. And I dunno bout mud flaps, but you might want to use some rubber pond liner or something between the brackets and the bed to prevent rubbing.

Cheers!
 

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rick pm me if you need stuff welded.... I think some of those T's are galvanized so that is a welding no no I think. Just fair warning to check just in case. I can't really tell from the pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
rick pm me if you need stuff welded.... I think some of those T's are galvanized so that is a welding no no I think. Just fair warning to check just in case. I can't really tell from the pics.
You are correct, the Simpson 'Strong-Ties' are galvanized....

Just got back from putting over 100 miles on the truck in the Anza Borrego desert, many of them on washboard/rocky roads and no problems - the highlift didn't budge. Even strapped a "D" handled shovel to the jack.

Did paint them prior to the trip, but no pictures yet taken of the mounts since painting.

Thanks for the welding offer.
 
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