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Yes I searched and people just blurt out the extra down travel will destroy a coilover with no explanation how. Is it because with the added down travel, the coilover will bottom out on compression, before the bumpstop hits the LCA? If so, can't I just lower the bumpstop to compensate for that?


Right now, I have my driver side Donahoe C/O cranked 8 more turns than the passeger side to level it out. So it rides funny because the driver side is stiff and the passenger side is soft. If I can addthe Toytec 3/4" top plate spacer, it would level out my truck and both C/O's would have the same amount of turns so the firmness would be even. I realize that both sides would have different down travels but will that be a major problem?
 

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The reason you have the drivers side cranked more is because there is more weight there, so it shouldn't ride funny. Mine doesn't. Adding a top spacer would load the spring in the same way as cranking them down, with one major drawback; uptravel would be limited. The shock would be fully compressed before the bumpstop on the LCA made contact, possibly damaging the shock. DR's have internal bumpstops, but they have limits. Have you investigated other causes of your "rides funny" ? Could be alignment problems. I don't think excessive down travel would be a concern at 3/4". If it really bothers you that much, move your battery and spare tire to the passenger side or go hoggin' and get a fat chick to ride shotty-
 

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garycoleman said:
Yes I searched and people just blurt out the extra down travel will destroy a coilover with no explanation how. Is it because with the added down travel, the coilover will bottom out on compression, before the bumpstop hits the LCA? If so, can't I just lower the bumpstop to compensate for that?


Right now, I have my driver side Donahoe C/O cranked 8 more turns than the passeger side to level it out. So it rides funny because the driver side is stiff and the passenger side is soft. If I can addthe Toytec 3/4" top plate spacer, it would level out my truck and both C/O's would have the same amount of turns so the firmness would be even. I realize that both sides would have different down travels but will that be a major problem?
Why don't you just call Donahoe?

Since there's a half dozen threads about spacers and coilovers, one of you guys oughta pick up the phone.

The differences between new gen. Taco's and older ones are a part of it, and the rules aren't necessarily the same.
 

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I have my driver side hoe cranked up more than the pass side to compensate for my weight 240 lbs, gas tank, battery etc. and the truck rides great. It sits .25 inch higher than the pass side without me in it and a full tank of gas.
 

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garycoleman said:
Yes I searched and people just blurt out the extra down travel will destroy a coilover with no explanation how. Is it because with the added down travel, the coilover will bottom out on compression, before the bumpstop hits the LCA? If so, can't I just lower the bumpstop to compensate for that?


Right now, I have my driver side Donahoe C/O cranked 8 more turns than the passeger side to level it out. So it rides funny because the driver side is stiff and the passenger side is soft. If I can add the Toytec 3/4" top plate spacer, it would level out my truck and both C/O's would have the same amount of turns so the firmness would be even. I realize that both sides would have different down travels but will that be a major problem?
I have no idea where you are getting your info but you might consider finding new sources :rolleyes:

you can't 'destroy' an extended Hoe because it has more down travel. The shock is longer with a longer stroke. the same bumpstops that protected the OE shocks do the same for these so no need for messing with the bump stops. Hoes also have their own internal protections.

I had my SAWs set at different levels, about a 1/4" difference from right to left and there was no 'funny' ride. Ride height difference on Tacos averages 1/2" L/R. If you have a 3/4" difference your dr side rear spring may be the culprit as the rear contributes to the lean as well.

Unless you have those things damn near maxed out the ride should be great. the more you crack them up the more preload you add and the worse the ride gets. Only crank them enough so you still maintail full articulation, ie, ability to stuff a tire to the bump stops with the sway bar disconnected. If you need more lift for tire clearance get a 1" BL.

Adding a TL to one side and not the other will give you two sides with different suspension geometries...not such a hot idea, IMO.
 
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