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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm moving my front axle for a few reasons. I want to add a panhard and there is no room to make it as long as I would like, and I'm having issues with the draglink ends hitting the tie rod under extreme situations, even though it clears normally. I want the axle foward anyways, so I'm running the tie rod under the spring like many do for D60's and keeping the drag link above. I can move the axle foward either 1 or 2". I know 1" will work, but 2" is just that much more extreme. Obviously I would get better approach, but worse breakover angles. The tie rod is 2x .250 DOM so I'm not too concerned about it hitting the rocks. Any thoughts? One pic is where it was after the swap, the other was 1" foward during the swap. It has settled quite a bit, but still sits in about the same position. The wheel centers perfectly now with 35's and no rubbing, but I could see myself going to 37-39's eventually.

Now

1" Foward
 

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Is your issue w/the drag link end where it connects to the pitman arm? I had a bit of interference too under very extreme flex but cured it by buying a pitman arm w/less drop then the one I had. I dont know how serious yours is but that fixed it for me.
 

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Tire-wise, alot easier to cut the fenders than the firewall.
 

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Mine is pretty far forward. I like it. The tires measure 38". I'm pretty certain 42's would clear the firewall. In the first pic the fenders aren't trimmed yet, the stuff pic they are. I still need to lop a little more off to prevent rubbage. Oh and I've shortened the shackles so the truck is lower w/o any additional fender rubbage.



 

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I say push it forwards. What is your wheelbase at right now?
 

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Move your axle forward and change the angle on your steering box to make it sit straight up and down. I moved my diamond forward and ran into the same issue with the tie rod and draglink connecting. I just changed the angle on the box and it fixed it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Alright lets see if I can answer all these in one shot. Wheelbase is 104.5", Fenders are trimmed to the firewall and 2" around, and firewall massaged back 1". Yes the pitman is just scraping the tie rod with wheel straight only during wheel hop or extreme situations, not normal flex. 1/4" would fix the problem. So would using a smaller steering rod. I want the axle forward some, but no trying to redo the whole thing. If I put the box vertical than I would get 1.25" more, So with the box vertical and a 1" shorter flat pitman I would get 2.25" clearance and can move forward 2". Here's a pic.

 

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Gyah, with that wheelbase you should/can move it as far forward as possible :D
 

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Put the box vertical. There really is no reason to angle it on a Tacoma.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So the question is: are any of the flat pitmans out there 1" shorter or can someone list the sizes since none of the sites mention this exactly.
 

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How much is an inch shorter pitman arm gonna fuck up you're turning radius? Or is the axle radius more than the sector shaft will go now anyways? I was thinking it was generally best to keep outta the ends of the box if you want them to last...
 

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Yeah, what he said. I wouldnt change the length of the pitman arm. Just mount the box vertical and change the drop on the pitman arm and see how much that helps. i would start there first then get more extreme.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Turning radius is very good, much better than it ever was IFS. The box reaches the end at about the same spot as the knuckles without the turning stop screws. Overall I have 1 turn more total than the IFS rack. Yep 1" is quite a big difference, I agree. But are the sky or OTT flat pitmans shorter or not?
 

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from what i know and what i need is a pitman arm that is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch less than the steering arm to have the correct throw etc...
what i have: 7.25 s.a.,center to center, pitman is 6.25 c to c( stock toy), and i need 6.75 to really make it work properly, you would be be way off if you run an inch shorter, just move the box, or what i will do is link the front and then eveything moves forward not back, i'm in the same boat, i run 36s and want to run bigger, but no go unless i move it all forward
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Linking isnt an option. I like leafs, they are easy to manipulate and repair and can be replaced cheap. Go spend 1K just for coilovers and tell me how that feels in a few years when they need to be rebuilt. Besides with linking it can be real good or real bad. I'm sure someone will tell me how awesome their radius arms are or 3 link is, but I've seen some that performed horribly and cost twice as much as I spent. Besides it's no fun when you break a link end or bend a piece of 2" x .250 and dont have a spare. I can always patch up a leaf to get me home.

Anyways my setup works just fine, I just have a little rubbing and want to fix it. There are many easy and inexpensive options out there for this. I'll probably straighten the box and move it 1" forward on the spring plates actually centered. That will clear 38's and not look really strange.
 

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Guapotaco said:
what i will do is link the front and then eveything moves forward not back,
That makes it harder to move the axle up, not easier (unless you have a scout box).
 
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