TTORA Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

· Going John Galt
Joined
·
37,497 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so I noticed my front tires have this area of zero wear on the inside edges and then noticed the wheels do have a slight \ / configureation.
I have the caster set at 4* and everything rides fine.

but, can I adjust the camber to 0* by adjusting the caster and if so which direction, up or down? or... am I stuck?
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
3,108 Posts
It's fixed, unless you use some wacky custom shim at the kingpins. Rotating the knuckle balls really won't change things that much.

Make sure your bearings and races are seated properly.
 

· Going John Galt
Joined
·
37,497 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
CronusTRD said:
It's fixed, unless you use some wacky custom shim at the kingpins. Rotating the knuckle balls really won't change things that much.

Make sure your bearings and races are seated properly.
that's what I thought :(
I'm wondering if the alignment guy goofed and set the toe way in by mistake.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
3,108 Posts
The toe in should be 1/8" towards the front.

Jack up the vehicle, measure in front of the axle from rim to rim, and behind the axle from rim to rim. The front should be 1/8" less.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,616 Posts
At the rim it would be closer to or less than a 1/16, I would think... 1/8 at the rim on a 15 would be over 1/4 at the treads on a 35 right?
Don't guess 1/4 or 1/8th would make much difference anyways. I think I'm around a 1/4 at the tread.

What he said about camber- I wonder if Brian's knuckle balls are machined with camber relative to caster at some set relationship... as in holes for knuckle bearings vs. camber set amount? Or if the camber is fixed and the knuckle balls just roll back to whatever caster you order? I wouldn't think a few degrees this way or that of caster though would make much difference on the actual camber * number.
 

· Going John Galt
Joined
·
37,497 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wes said:
At the rim it would be closer to or less than a 1/16, I would think... 1/8 at the rim on a 15 would be over 1/4 at the treads on a 35 right?
Don't guess 1/4 or 1/8th would make much difference anyways. I think I'm around a 1/4 at the tread.

What he said about camber- I wonder if Brian's knuckle balls are machined with camber relative to caster at some set relationship... as in holes for knuckle bearings vs. camber set amount? Or if the camber is fixed and the knuckle balls just roll back to whatever caster you order? I wouldn't think a few degrees this way or that of caster though would make much difference on the actual camber * number.
I just asked Jim about that and he said it would be highly unlikely that one of Brian's axles was that far off with the way they are machined.

his guess was a bad toe setting so I'll play with that today.
he also agreed with your 1/4" at the rubber. his method: get another set of hands ;) use two straight edges, one each against the outside face of the tires being careful not to have it against the lettering...smooth rubber only. measure distance from these bars front and rear of the tread. set toe to 1/4" 'IN' up front.

now, to find a neighbor who's not at work :p
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
16,759 Posts
Just go find yourself an alignment shop that will let you participate. I use my local Wheel Works and get their annual alignment deal. I use my own specs and they let me get under there. There ain't nothing they are gonna find in any book that will match the truck anyway. It's much nicer to have a full on alignment rack to work with. I do try to go when it's not so busy. I think that helps some.
 

· Going John Galt
Joined
·
37,497 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Dick Foster said:
Just go find yourself an alignment shop that will let you participate. I use my local Wheel Works and get their annual alignment deal. I use my own specs and they let me get under there. There ain't nothing they are gonna find in any book that will match the truck anyway. It's much nicer to have a full on alignment rack to work with. I do try to go when it's not so busy. I think that helps some.
that's what I did but I think he wasn't able to figure it out correctly and was trying to 'match' things up to the computer :rolleyes:

I'm hoping he just set that toe way too far in.

when you go and hand them your list of specs what do they use as a starting point? If he used an incorrect baseline there's no way he could have set that toe right.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
16,759 Posts
Just set it to 0 and toe in a touch. Set caster to about 4 degrees for 35's.
I've had them try to use stock Tacoma specs before. That's when I ask them to point out the adjustment cams for me and is when they started letting me get in on the deal since I had to tell them what adjusted what. Things got a lot easier after that. I even bring some of my own tools to make things go more soothingly.
 

· Going John Galt
Joined
·
37,497 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Dick Foster said:
Just set it to 0 and toe in a touch. Set caster to about 4 degrees for 35's.
I've had them try to use stock Tacoma specs before. That's when I ask them to point out the adjustment cams for me and is when they started letting me get in on the deal since I had to tell them what adjusted what. Things got a lot easier after that. I even bring some of my own tools to make things go more soothingly.
I have a feeling the 'just set it to 0' part was where he screwed up.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,616 Posts
Not thinking Brian's stuff would be off- just curious if the knuckles come predrilled for bearings and set for camber then it just rolls around- way I'm looking at it as down the length of the axle tube, the camber offsets the knuckle ball top to bottom and the caster the bearing "holes" left to right.
Moving the caster forward to back would change the effective camber, but maybe as much as a a little fraction of a degree? in ~4* difference in caster... just wondering.

The straight edge idea is a good one- just difficult for a loner like you said. I usually just run it off the inside tread (like to like obviously) and call it close enough.
Heh, with bushings at my axle I'd be wasting everybody's time at an alignment shop. I gotta adjust, drive, adjust, drive- takes a week of dickering around with the caster to get it where it sets the way I want it.
 

· Going John Galt
Joined
·
37,497 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
so I noticed my front tires have this area of zero wear on the inside edges and then noticed the wheels do have a slight \ / configureation.
I have the caster set at 4* and everything rides fine.

but, can I adjust the camber to 0* by adjusting the caster and if so which direction, up or down? or... am I stuck?
figured out the problem...
the lower links were out of adjustment by almost an inch, ie, 123" wheelbase on one side and a little more than 122 on the other. I evened them out and got the alignment rechecked.

camber, R/L 0.7*
caster R 5.4 L 5.5
toe -.14 R/L
cross camber 0
cross caster .1
total toe -.28

not bad ;) I would have liked a little less camber but this will have to do.

the tires still don't wear right but I've come to the conclusion that it's the tires.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top