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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just picked up a hp 44 out of a f250. I have been comtemplating to cut it down or run full width. I know I am definetly going to a d60 in the rear not for another 3-4 years though. MY question is have any of yall out there with SFA Hp44 run full width with the stock yota 8 out back. If you have could you post a pic or two. Thanks fellas

Brian
 

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Reckelhoff said:
I just picked up a hp 44 out of a f250
Here's Zac's truck: http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?postid=18031#poststop

If you are thinking of running coilovers or coils, most would say it is easier to keep the axle as wide as it is, for more room to mount brackets.

One consideration if you choose to narrow the housing, and this is something you probably already realize: make sure you find some commonly-available shafts to use that can be combined to fit the width you plan to run. Getting custom shafts everytime you break can and will be expensive.

On a side note:

Is the axle 8-lug?

Just wondering because I am trying to figure out exactly what axle I have sitting in my garage. Seller told me it was from an F-150, then some people on the PBB said it was from an Early Bronco. After referring to this site, I am convinced that I have a '71-'75 F-150 axle. Drum brakes, 5-lug, welded radius arms mounts, bracket for panhard bar.

Personally, my plan is to run coilovers and radius arms, and I want to be as low and wide as possible, so I am keeping the axle at its stock width of around 6 feet hub-to-hub.

BUMP for more input.
 

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Reckelhoff said:
I just picked up a hp 44 out of a f250. I have been comtemplating to cut it down or run full width.

Brian
I run full widths and love it, the cost of putting a rear 60 in is very minimal, they can be had for 100 bucks or so. then gear it and lock it and be done and dont worry to much. you will have to have some big ass wheel spacers to make it look normal if you keep it full width and keep the stock rear. another thing is having to have 2 sets of wheels, 8 lug for the front and 6 for the rear. i personally would keep everything 8 lug but thats just my opinion. i also like having the full floating rear, if i break a shaft just pull it and stick a big ass magnet, pull the broken part out and stick a new one in. i run chromoly's front and rear so hopefully i wont have to worry about that. as far as cutting it down thats all personal opinion, somewhat like wheel bases it can help you sometimes and hurt you other times. i know that front axle inside and out so if you have any questions just let me know.
 

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Shannon had a full width f250 axle when he ran the stock rear. PM him and I am sure he can hook you up with some pics or whatever you need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all the info guys. That helps out a lot. First, yes, it is a 8 lug axle. I was going to do a 6 lug conversion to the front and run the same pattern, but after thinking about it, I may just run 8 lug front and 6 lug rear until I can get a 60 built and put under there, and carry 2 different spares. I didnt realize 60 could be had for so little.

As for the shortning. I was going to get it cut down to a track width of 63inches(shakerbuilt), which is the same size as the 2 gen broncos, so shafts could be had easily. I would really rather fun full width though. So for now i think i am going to run the full width 44 and stock yota till i can scrap some more cash for a 60 out back. It may look goofy but As my good friend turner says "it isnt pretty that gets you over the rocks" thanks again for your help.

Brian
 

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If you run a 15" wheel you will need to have backspacing less that 2" to clear the brake brackets, i run 15x8 beadlocks with 1.5" bs. i wish i would have went with a 15x10 since im going up to a 42" tire by mid year. wanna buy some beadlocks? :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am only running a 37 12.50 MT/R so a 15x8 may just work. Give me a price and i will let you know if i can fit this in my budget. College student doing SAS so money is real tight right now, but we will see. If the price is right then maybe by midyear i will buy your beadlocks:)
 

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Well the comment about early bronco front axles have low pinion, not high pinion. The 78 and 79 bronco's had HP 44. You would be better off looking for a 76 or 77 HP dana 44 from a f150 because they have the welded on radius arm mounts or a extended cab front axle because they have leaf springs up front and a dana 44. The half ton units would be alot better in the long run because parts are more redily available. If I remember correctly they run 65-66" WMS-WMS. The early bronco's run about 58-59" WMS-WMS. You might consider getting a matching ford 9" too because they can be made pretty damn durable and you keep a easy to find axle shaft and save some weight too.
 

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I have a HP D44 from a 78 F250 that I will be running as soon as I can get my tax return check so I can finish gearing it. The trick is run the chevy 6 lug outers to include the knuckles. By doing so you keep the 6 lug and only increase the total width by 3 inches from the taco stock 61". Which I plan on using the 1.5" wheel spacers from allpro in the rear to even that out for now. Since I already have the waggy with highsteer. I am going to keep everything from the knuckles out and run them on the HP D44. To do this though you also have to keep the HP Ford inner axle shafts and use the chevy outer axles.
Something to think about...

Trent
 

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WhyHikeAU said:
I have a hp dana 44 out of a 77 f150, It is 5 lug. What do i need to do to make it 8 lug? It alreadt has disk brakes. I want to run a 60 out back(8 lug)
MAtt
You can get knuckle out setups from any 8 lug axles that are 44's. I'd suggest finding a 8 Lug Ford combination as I think their 2 piston brakes work better with the Tacoma's brakes than the single piston Chevy/Jeep brakes.

Later,
David
 
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