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Hydro Assist on the Road

3K views 36 replies 8 participants last post by  Dick Foster 
#1 ·
I just bought an 89 with an 83 toy axel, high steer etc.... now i do have steering wobble and I am going through the usual steps to check that out (tighten/replace susp components etc) I am considering installing hydro assist, and since my P/S pump is shot it may be a good time. While the truck is not my DD, it still needs to be streetable. How does hydro assist work on the street? i am guessing it will add a brief lag from when you turn the wheel to when the stuff moves? Is it noticeable? I did try searching, but didnt get anything. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
#29 ·
Dick Foster said:
Fucking XTerrains are pieces of shit so that could be your problem right there. Have they cupped yet?

Pretty funny! Actually X-Terrains arent my first choice in a tire, but that is what the truck had on it when I bought it. Incidentally, the previous owner said that the shimmy wasnt a real issue with 35" tires. The X-Terrains made it feel really bad. So it really could just be shitty ass tires for all i know which is why I wanted to start there first. I need someone with smaller tires I guess, then i could test them out and see.
 
#30 ·
Wgasa84 said:
I'm not sure where I read you welded to the Tie Rod... sorry! I did something similar to Dicks setup, cut a piece of tube down the middle, about 1/2" wide and welded it to the Tie Rod on either side of the clamp. Doesn't move and I can still adjust Toe by loosening the Clamp.
I was going to set my ram up as you have yours. My buddy that was there helping me fab up the brackets and such wanted to weld the mount to the tie rod, but before he actually did it, (it was funny) He realized that you can't adjust the toe afterwards... He asked are you sure you want to run a ram? I just told him that yes...that is why I bought the extra tubing. With a puzzled look on his face, he asked what are you going to do with the tubing? Make stops for the bracket. We ended up compromising and just made weld "stops" on the tie rod.

Wgasa84 said:
Hrm... yeah Maybe your knucle studs are loose? Fawk I don't know... I know toyota axles... not this dana stuff! Do you have knuckle studs that hold your knuckle to the diff? Or ball joints?


I feel pretty dumb right now! LOL
I thought about the steering arm studs being loose, that is one thing I am going to check out. but I doubt that they are, but you never know.

The dana 44 uses ball joints, I put the stock shafts and ujoints back in when I installed the axle, thinking that I would be replacing that stuff soon enough...might as well wheel it as is and upgrade when it breaks. but the damn stuff won't break! I am not complaining but it is doing better than I thought it would!
 
#31 ·
I always get them crossed up! caster can be fixed by positioning the spring pads correct? that was what I was talking about.

We re-welded the spring pads and got a better positive angle, which in turn helped the axle return to center better and stopped the wheels from trying to "fight each other"
 
#32 ·
Sorry to disappoint your ole sorry ass! :D I did it right the first time. no learning the hard way for me on this one!

clamp to tie rod, build stops into tie rod for ability to adjust toe! Got it! You see I am not todays generation, I listen to my elders! :flipoff1:
 
#33 ·
I figured it would be better to be short than too long! At least that is what I have been told in other facets of life!:D I was always told being "too long" got painful!:bhump:
 
#36 ·
Well I didnt get a chance to work on the truck this weekend. All I was able to do was inflate the front tires to a good psi, and equal them out. (1 was down to 18psi). It actually helped, so I am wondering if Dick is right and that these damn tires are the culprits.
 
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