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Discussion Starter #1
If anyone has any amazing suggestions, I'm all ears!

I have a SASed Yota and I have some Death Wobble issues. At around 30 mph if I hit any rough road or a bump, I start to wobble and it doesn't stop until I do. No problems off road. I got rid of it by toeing my tires way out but of course, that had some issues of its own. I switched from Swamper TSLs (when the wobble was controllable) to Pro Comp Mud Terrains and now it seems I can't get rid of the wobble.

Yes, I know this is due to the fact that something is off with my swap (I didn't do it) and the problem will eventually be completely remedied when I start cutting and welding under there to improve the swap but I'm looking for a good fix for now.

Will a stronger steering stabilizer help? Hydraulic steer assist? Kick it twice in the left front shackle, walk backwards, and hit the odometer button? Any ideas?

Thanks!
 

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when ever I had deathwobble it was from something being loose. re-check everything.
try rotating tires. you shouldn't need a stablizer to fix DW. it will help as will hydro-assist. BUT you are just masking a problem.
 

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Alignment might be an issue too. The only other thing might be the geometry of your steering parts. I had a little wobble until I installed my stabilizer and it drive great now. So, if you are currently running one it does not do the trick, try what Grumpy said and try and alignment. If your castor is too far off it could cause this along with toe. Really all you need is for them to pull the numbers for you so you can make the necessary adjustments.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, I've been messing around with the alignment a lot and I just haven't gotton it perfect yet i think. What do you mean "they" can run numbers? Is there an equation or something?
 

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What I meant was the shop will pull the numbers for your toe, castor, and camber and print them out for you to take. That is how I got mine dialed in. I paid for one alignment and every time I went back they checked the numbers for me for free. I would then go home and make some adjustments and go back until I finally got all the numbers where they should be. Really the only thing they can adjust is your toe so everything else has to be corrected via ball joint shims, or spindle shims. I happen to know quite a bit about both so if you need any help let me know. If your numbers are within a reasonable range then I would lean toward a steering geometry issue, but it sounds like you will be fixing that. Sorry for the confusion.

Edit: If you click on my link below and go to the bottom of my webshots page you will see a folder that says "Alignment shim install". that will give you an idea of what I am talking about with the spindle shim. The BJ shims are tapered and have the capability to correct both castor and camber, whereas the spindle shim can only correct camber. The BJ shims however adjust one setting at the expense of the other unfortunately. So if you are off on both castor and camber you might need both shims.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Actually Kaistie, I think i would love some help. My friend Weston is helping me out now and he's a great Toyota mechanic but it sounds like you have had a similar problem and have a solution or at least some experiential knowledge. I adjust my toe (in) and I think what's happening is that it's fine for a while and then it gets proressively worse over a few days or a week. I don't know why. I really don't know much about this stuff. It seems like there's so much stuff you can do to screw up a SAS and I think mine is currently fu***d!
I really appreciate the offer to help out. What part of the valley do you live in?
Thanks!
-Megan
"fish"
 

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Are you using poly bushings or rubber on the leafs? TRE or heims for the steering? High steer? Find a point on the frame (like a x-member) and measure the relative distances between the two springs front to back on the frame as well as laterally. If your fabricator was off more than .5" on square than you've found your problem. Bandaid would be hydro assist or steering stabilizer like you mentioned. Can you post pics of the steering? -Jeff
 

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Fish Taco said:
Actually Kaistie, I think i would love some help. My friend Weston is helping me out now and he's a great Toyota mechanic but it sounds like you have had a similar problem and have a solution or at least some experiential knowledge. I adjust my toe (in) and I think what's happening is that it's fine for a while and then it gets proressively worse over a few days or a week. I don't know why. I really don't know much about this stuff. It seems like there's so much stuff you can do to screw up a SAS and I think mine is currently fu***d!
I really appreciate the offer to help out. What part of the valley do you live in?
Thanks!
-Megan
"fish"
Definately do as Jeff suggested by measuring everything. If there is a problem with your parts not being squared up or set properly you will only be masking a bigger problem, and it may not even work at that. I think we all have dealt with that issue at one point or another.

I am in Cave Creek. If it is in fact just an alignment issue I might be able to help you out. Just let me know, but take a close look at things and break out the FatMax tape and start measuring.
Nate
 

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One of the main causes of Death wobble from my expierence is loose suspension / steering components.

On a recent swap that I did.... we thought everything was correct... once we hit a bumpy section of road his truck had death wobble bad. it turned out that all we needed to do was crank down on the shackle bushins some more. This tightened up the suspension, and the death wobble went away.

I would be more than happy to help you look at your truck if you want. Just bring it by my house.

Yogi


Fish Taco said:
If anyone has any amazing suggestions, I'm all ears!

I have a SASed Yota and I have some Death Wobble issues. At around 30 mph if I hit any rough road or a bump, I start to wobble and it doesn't stop until I do. No problems off road. I got rid of it by toeing my tires way out but of course, that had some issues of its own. I switched from Swamper TSLs (when the wobble was controllable) to Pro Comp Mud Terrains and now it seems I can't get rid of the wobble.

Yes, I know this is due to the fact that something is off with my swap (I didn't do it) and the problem will eventually be completely remedied when I start cutting and welding under there to improve the swap but I'm looking for a good fix for now.

Will a stronger steering stabilizer help? Hydraulic steer assist? Kick it twice in the left front shackle, walk backwards, and hit the odometer button? Any ideas?

Thanks!
 

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yogiaz said:
One of the main causes of Death wobble from my expierence is loose suspension / steering components.

On a recent swap that I did.... we thought everything was correct... once we hit a bumpy section of road his truck had death wobble bad. it turned out that all we needed to do was crank down on the shackle bushins some more. This tightened up the suspension, and the death wobble went away.

I would be more than happy to help you look at your truck if you want. Just bring it by my house.

Yogi
I was surprised when I found that loose shackles created my death wobble at one point. and thats why I suggested in other reply to recheck tightness of everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hmmm, shackles huh? I'll check that next. All the steering components are tight. I've moved my alignment around a lot and it's no longer temporarily fixing the problem like it used to. I measured the space between my springs in the front like suggested by Jeff. I don't exactly know what I'm looking for but the spring hangers in the front were about a half inch closer together than the shackles on the back side of the springs. I'm not sure but I think that's just because the frame narrows at the front, right?

Anyway, I'll check my shackles next. Oh, and I'm using poly bushings. Please let me know what exactly I should be measuring. :confused:

And Yogi, where in Gilbert do you live? Send me a PM if you have time to help out on Friday, Saturday, or Sunday. I know it's the holiday weekend so feel free to tell me to F*** off and we can do it later but this is getting desperate. I don't like driving to work at 20 mph.

Thanks so much guys!

--Megan
 

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The springs need to be perfectly parallel to eachother... .500" is a whole lotta wrong. Also how are the springs in relation to eachother as far as "side to side"? How are the condition of your bushings? You need to fix that half inch in the long run.
 

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I live at Higley and Pecos... Im working on a guys truck on Sat morning. So that would be a great time for you to come over. Let me know... I will definatley help you figure some stuff out.

Yogi


Fish Taco said:
Hmmm, shackles huh? I'll check that next. All the steering components are tight. I've moved my alignment around a lot and it's no longer temporarily fixing the problem like it used to. I measured the space between my springs in the front like suggested by Jeff. I don't exactly know what I'm looking for but the spring hangers in the front were about a half inch closer together than the shackles on the back side of the springs. I'm not sure but I think that's just because the frame narrows at the front, right?

Anyway, I'll check my shackles next. Oh, and I'm using poly bushings. Please let me know what exactly I should be measuring. :confused:

And Yogi, where in Gilbert do you live? Send me a PM if you have time to help out on Friday, Saturday, or Sunday. I know it's the holiday weekend so feel free to tell me to F*** off and we can do it later but this is getting desperate. I don't like driving to work at 20 mph.

Thanks so much guys!

--Megan
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Unfortunately I am working on Saturday morning but maybe I can come on over after I'm done working, yeah? I think I'll be done around 1 or 2ish.

It's pretty bad now. I can't drive very fast or very far. This sucks.

Thanks very much for the offer to help me figure out what's up. Send me a PM or something with your phone number if you think that will be a good way to get a hold of you on Saturday afternoon. I warn you though...my swap is a bit of a hack job. I'm slowly fixing everything but for now it's a little scary.

Let me know if Saturday afternoon would work for you and let me know how you want me to contact you.

Thanks a lot, Yogi!

--Megan
 

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Just give me a call when you get off work. That might be about the time that Im finishing up my friends rig. 480-694-9392 Cell phone, If I dont answer... then leave a message.

Yogi

Fish Taco said:
Unfortunately I am working on Saturday morning but maybe I can come on over after I'm done working, yeah? I think I'll be done around 1 or 2ish.

It's pretty bad now. I can't drive very fast or very far. This sucks.

Thanks very much for the offer to help me figure out what's up. Send me a PM or something with your phone number if you think that will be a good way to get a hold of you on Saturday afternoon. I warn you though...my swap is a bit of a hack job. I'm slowly fixing everything but for now it's a little scary.

Let me know if Saturday afternoon would work for you and let me know how you want me to contact you.

Thanks a lot, Yogi!

--Megan
 

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Several things... but the most pressing was the shackles not being tight against the bushings. There was a visable gap between the shackle and the bushing. The bolt was clearly viable. So I replaced the nut/lockwasher combo with nylocks and cranked them down.

There were a few other issues that needed to be addressed. One was the movement of the tire (checking ball joint movement.) Both sides would movie in and out a bit. I have never pulled apart a toyota axle. But I was thinking it could be wheel bearings, or ball joints. Do Toyota axles have ball joints?

I am about 90% that the greatest cause for the death wobble was the shackles. So I hope that the truck is a bit safer and easier to drive. Especially since the fix costed less than $5 bucks.

Yogi

grumpy said:
what ya find?
 
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