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Discussion Starter #1
Well after some careful thought, the rear end of my truck is basically going to be completely redone during this lift that I'm planning out here.... Including leaf springs, shackles, bushings, shocks, etc.... So why not clean up some of the unused bracketry on the axle, do a u-bolt flip, and relocate the shocks, while I'm in there? Seems logical, right? I honestly wish I could do all of the work myself for this, but while I have layed a few beads, I certainly couldn't weld up stuff that my life depends on just yet... So I need somebody that knows what they're doing, and that has preferrably done a shock relocation before. I don't have any parts yet, so I'm looking at a few weeks out maybe.

I think I may get the short shock mounts, shown here:
http://www.allprooffroad.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=49#shock mounts

I would like to do a crossmember like this one:
http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamods/lift/rearshocksandmounts/shocks mounts.htm

I will probably just find some extended u-bolts, and make my own plate.

I don't want to do the / \ thing with the shocks. I would like to keep them towards the outside of the axle and as straight as possible, except angled back slightly behind the axle.

I will need a piece of 2x2 square tubing if anybody has some...I'll pay ya for it, and pick it up. I just need it to be pretty substantial thickness, and at least the width of my truck.

Once I have the 2x2 tubing, and the shocks that I am buying shortly, I can start planning on where to set everything...

Please, give me some other suggestions, if you wish too.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also, if I hadn't mentioned it:

I have 2 donor leaf packs that I will be chopping up to make my own leaf packs, as well as a set of 1.5" shackles, for hopefully an eventual lift of about 3" Since my truck's springs are so saggy, and it's hard to tell where the lift point should be from, I will be lifting the front first to about just under 3" with Tundra springs, and a small top-out spacer. Then after having the "prerunner-look" for a little bit, while I get the front aligned, and the rear planned out, I will start building my leaf packs to try and match the front. Somewhere right close in there, I would like to get my shocks relocated. When it's all said and done, I will see what I need to do to my bumpstops to keep my 33x1250s from slamming into my bedsides, or whatever it may be. Sound like a plan?
 

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I'm looking at doing the exact same thing as you are. I've got the 57" Alcan springs and longer shackles so they flex way more and the shocks strike the springs. Straight up and down is best because they are ineffective when angled but that is harder to do with LT setups. Spring-under you have to make new perches too.
 

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bud built has a kit that may have all the parts you need.

http://www.budbuilt.com/new/shock_mounts.html

Don't waste the money on an alignment until both ends are at ride height - the caster will be WAY off with the droopy butt.
 

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sounds like you have the right idea on mounting location. the / \ doesnt seem very good for DD's. yeah, articulation out the butt, but not fun road manners from what ive researched. seems like mounting them far out on the axle, without an extreme angle will allow the shocks to do their job. i will be following this one closely. and kyle, i'd be happy to help you out whenever i can. im in lakewood, so relatively close. if you need a hand, let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
bud built has a kit that may have all the parts you need.

http://www.budbuilt.com/new/shock_mounts.html

Don't waste the money on an alignment until both ends are at ride height - the caster will be WAY off with the droopy butt.
I saw Budbuilts kit, and it's really not what I want.... At the very minimum of all of the negatives it has, it looks terrible. I would rather just have something solidly welded, that works for what I'm going to use it for

I didn't think about the caster...but that's right. So I guess I can't drag this whole thing out when I have time here and there...It will have to be more of a weekend thing. Get it done in one shot, and get it aligned....

I might set a date....or a dead line rather, for all the pieces to come together in March or something... What the hell...March 1st and 2nd? Any welders available those days? I'll take the bed off for ya, and make it nice and easy......:eek:
 

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sounds like you have the right idea on mounting location. the / \ doesnt seem very good for DD's. yeah, articulation out the butt, but not fun road manners from what ive researched. seems like mounting them far out on the axle, without an extreme angle will allow the shocks to do their job.
Note that front/back angle is just as bad as side to side. By putting the shock at 45* to the line of motion, you cut the damping force in half. This can be overcome by valving, though - just get a shock that's twice as stiff as normal.
 

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I saw Budbuilts kit, and it's really not what I want.... At the very minimum of all of the negatives it has, it looks terrible. I would rather just have something solidly welded, that works for what I'm going to use it for.
looks like you would have to really torque it to not slip. I was thinking about doing that would rather get it welded. I think vwgofast-russel? has that on his truck. plus I'm a real tightwad about adding extra weight. :D
 

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im going to be following this too. Ive wanted to get more travel out of my alcans for a while and just dont know how to go about doing it. besides the budget doesnt allow for it just yet. I thought the /\ setup looked ok but I really dont know how it would drive on the road like everyone said. I think ORS of Irbis has a weld in Xmember already triangulated...
 

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http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38032

See post #19 by me

Ruffstuff has a kit as well, all laser-cut. Comes with a 2x2" crossmember which is usually 3-4" longer then needed; so that you can cut it down to your exact specs. The "L" shaped pieces that weld to the body are made to sit atop your frame rail, making installation quite easy.

Dan (Ruffstuff) does not go skimpy on metal, I dont think he does anything smaller then 3/8".

Install for me was a breeze, just cut to fit the xmember, weld it up, put in place, and weld in place.

Dan also mentioned to me many times that you don't want the top of the /\ to be too close. If you get them too close together, upon articulation; your shocks will actually HELP you to roll over. I think he suggested a minimum spread of 8" center to center of the upper shock mounts.
 

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I thought the /\ setup looked ok but I really dont know how it would drive on the road like everyone said.
Dan also mentioned to me many times that you don't want the top of the /\ to be too close. If you get them too close together, upon articulation; your shocks will actually HELP you to roll over. I think he suggested a minimum spread of 8" center to center of the upper shock mounts.
When you install them towards the center you get more sway. A lot of the race trucks with lots of travel go straight up and down or angled slightly forward because of this.

 

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When you install them towards the center you get more sway. A lot of the race trucks with lots of travel go straight up and down or angled slightly forward because of this.
See my post above about the effect of angles on the damping force of shocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I do not want to angle the shocks inward, as some of you are talking about. I'm not concerned about damping force, I'm concerned about body roll and ride on the road.
 

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angle them towards the back then so they work with your springs and shackles when they flex.... you will need them really long if you do it that way though
 

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Kyle - it doesn't matter which direction they're angled! If they are angled, you're gonna have body roll and ride issues unless you go with a stiffer shock.

If you want to run a significantly longer shock for more droop travel, then you either have to
- angle them (and suffer the performance issues)
- come through the bed into a shock cage (and suffer the loss of cargo capacity and extra expense)
- do a linkage setup (can you say $$$)
 

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I agree totally with that except the stock mounts fight the side to side twist because of the direction but if their pointed inward they are free to pivot.
 

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sorry to pull it so far off topic Kyle. So anyone wanna weld for this guy?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Kyle - it doesn't matter which direction they're angled! If they are angled, you're gonna have body roll and ride issues unless you go with a stiffer shock.

If you want to run a significantly longer shock for more droop travel, then you either have to
- angle them (and suffer the performance issues)
- come through the bed into a shock cage (and suffer the loss of cargo capacity and extra expense)
- do a linkage setup (can you say $$$)
True, but my plan was what Rich was saying. They can't be directly over top the axle....it just doesn't work. They will be perpendicular to the axle when looking from the side, but with the crossmember slightly back from the axle (where it will fit), so the angle back will be minimal. This as opposed to the / \ setup where it has extremely reduced damping force, and all kinds of leverage for body roll. My shock locations will be similar to stock, except that both will be oriented towards the rear. As Rich was saying, this works with the shackles and leaf springs.
 
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