hytenor said:
since the Taco's suspension geometry is fixed at 8" none of them really "flex" any better than any other. The drop-bracket style lifts just lower the front drivetrain and steering but maintain stock geometry for the most part. Stiffer coils will flex less, shorter than stock shocks will yeild less travel. Longer shocks will yeild a little more down-travel.
The IFS trouble spot no matter how much total travel ... bump (compression)+down (rebound) travel is a lack of articulation due to the fact that it is an independent suspension... The fact that one side is higher up on a rock than the other transfers weight to the low side compressing it. With the sways unplugged and 6" of bump on one side you will still get a good bit of bump travel on the low side due to weight transfer... So lets make a optimistic WAG (wild ass guess) and say it went up 1"... Now we have a whopping 5" of articlation.
The front sway bar acts like a torsion bar linking the lower control arms (LCA). It raises the side opposite the tire on the obsticle a % of the bump occuring on the high side.
Hey look the sway bar did its job it brought the LCA's as close to even as its rate of tortion would allow.. Too bad the truck is really crooked now.. More WAG One side went up 6" and the other up 3"... 3" of articulation from 9" of total control arm movement.. :rofl:
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/cheaptricks/swaybar2/
Make some
To get the most from IFS.. Install the lift bracket and leave out the bumpstops, sway links, shock and spring and install the tire and wheel.. On coilover only lifts just take out the previously listed items.. Obviously leave it on the lift or stands... Run narrower tires (like 10.50 not 12.50), cutout flares, sheet metal nip and tucks in the wells... etc all help.. Get as much bump travel as possible.. Lower the differential if not part of the kit to improve CV angles at droop.. Maybe get better CV shafts.. Ones with the tundra style or porsche 930 joints if you want more droop.. If it will droop beyond where a taco CV likes to live....then get some limiting straps..
Then match your damper (shock) to the range of travel you have available..
Droop travel does littlefor us in the articulation department on a front wheel ramp travel index. The low side wont droop it will get compressed ... On a ramp it can't push the low tire down like a SAS front.. Off the ramp it all depends on the terrain the droop is usfull there..
Maybe get much stiffer swaybars... You are all now like wtf? How does that help off road... Well on the street you can run much softer coil spring rates in the front with a stiffer sway bar. A coil rate that would lean too much with the stock bar would be aggressively leveled off by the stiff bar..
On the trail pull the disconnects and the bars road manners are gone alowing weeble and wobble time.. Dont try to make a lifted truck stay level by cranking up the springs.... Stiffen the sway bar you can unhook that quick..
I have a few ideas to improve IFS performance in the rocks.... When I post my pics adding my tricks to the already flexy long travel kit.. I'll talk...
From
http://www.chaosfab.com/photos.html
The front tire tucks nicely in the glass fender but it would never have made it that far w/o the upgraded rear suspension..