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Wicked Kool!!!


Im sure im not the first and wont be the last, but be carefull with those cinder blocks!
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Yeah, I turned the blocks upright to hold weight the way they were designed to and put wood top and bottom to soften any impact and disperse the weight.

I made a dumbass move one night and forgot to weld a brace in before I cut the cossmembers underneath. I later climbed up in the truck via the sliders and the frame shifted on the jack stands and I nearly pooped myself.:eek: The frame was then sitting at an inward angle. I wedged a 2"x6" in between and tacked the jack stand to the frame after that.

How it sits now, in the process of removing any unused wiring-



I'm in WI (closest place to wheel is Indiana. :mad: ) for awhile due to school so I'm taking my time with this build, so any thoughts of "unnecessary" or "too much work than it's worth" is not an issue here.

I'd like the truck to maintain some level of DD capability or creature comforts, to include retaining the A/C and heat if possible. But a major goal with this build is to maximize effective weight displacement and low COG. Additionally I want to clear up as much of the engine compartment as I can for an engine cage and turbo.

Soooo keeping that in mind, is it completely retarded/impossible to relocate the entire heat/AC/blower to the xtra cab portion behind the seats? That would clear up room under the dash to move the fuse box, brake (and possibly clutch) MCs, and air intake into that area. Doing so would help with both shifting the weight and clear up the engine compartment for the aforementioned reasons and allow more space for an intercooler.

Rerouting tubes, electric A/C compressor, using a unit from a completely different vehicle, are all options I'd be open to.

Any thoughts?:eek:
 

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That is an interesting idea!

I must say I love the fact that i still have my AC!


I am not sure how you would be able to get the AC compressor back there to work. Not sure what you could run it with. Going way out on a limb i supposed you could try and run it with a pully off the DS, through the floor. But that seems like an impossible amount of work for very little gain, plus when you are stoppped the compressor would not work.

For the minimul gain i dont think its worth it. Your time would be better spent moving the motor/tranny/tcases back and down. You will already need a new front DS, and if you are adding a doubler (you may already have one???) you will need a new rear ds as well. Plus the difference in COG would be insane with the motor back and down.


That pile of wires you have on the floor is scary! :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I figured the solution would be either an electric compressor behind the cab (gonna run dual batteries in the rear anyway) or keep the OEM compressor in the stock location and simply run the lines under the cab.

The wiring has been somewhat of a nightmare so luckily I hired the help of a friend with a 5-year degree in electrical engineering and currently jobless.:eek:

Probably gonna order an Inchworm crawl box on Friday.
 

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relocating the heater n A/C wouldn't be worth the hassle IMO. Careful with that wiring, toyota did some funky stuff that isn't very straight forward. I went thru mine on the 85 and did what you're doing. I still don't have hi-beams or a reverse light, but overall I think it was worth the hassle.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Yeah, I've been doing some more research and an electric compressor isn't really feasible. Denso just came out with one but it doesn't appear readily available. Honestly, I'd sooner run with no AC than keep the stock compressor. I can always get some wally world 12v fan if I think I'll be stuck in traffic or something for any length of time haha.

However, another option I thought of was to (at the very least) run 1 (or 2) low profile heating units that you find under the passenger seat in 4runners. A shit-ton less bulk than the main heat/AC/blower unit. Especially if I keep them under the seats.

The Haynes manual isn't worth the paper its printed on in regards to the wiring diagrams. I printed off most of the wiring section from the FSM yesterday and things are starting to make sense. Not gonna be cutting any wires that I'm not sure about though:eek:
 

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My A/C :lmao::


You could look at the Mojave Heaters if you really want to ditch the factory unit: http://www.flex-a-lite.com/mojave-heater-1.html

Personally, I kept the factory heater. It's only taking up space I wouldn't have used anyways. It's easy enough to make up a fuse panel that'll sit in the dash..

Just my :2cents:
 

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And.. about the wiring charts, first step, burn the haynes manual, it's been wrong for just about everything I've looked up in it.

fork out the couple of $$ for access to TIS and download the diagrams for your specific year. I started of my swap by using wiring diagrams for 2004 while working with a 2002. They were VERY similar, but they switched pin positions and other annoying minor changes. It was good $$ spent in my opinion. Of course, i was dealing with a motor swap and custom harness, but I still think it's worth the $$.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Thanks, the TIS helped. Things are starting to make more sense.:D

With as lightweight as the heat/AC/blower unit is (didn't realize this until it was out :eek: ) it won't matter where it is, I may be able to leave it in the (almost) stock location. I found the brake booster to be too damned huge and the modification to be too complex (and possibly unreliable) to mount under the dash. Anyone know of a smaller booster that I can replace it with and keep it in the stock location?

Some may think it's a bit much, but I wanted an access panel to the back of the engine (to make it easier to bolt/unbolt the tranny more than anything haha) so I moved the engine back 4" as well. not too much where serious modifications have to be made in the cab, but enough to get the axle and upper link where I want it. I may be able to put the heat/AC/blower unit back. Not sure. We'll see I guess haha

 

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Holy hell... and people think I have projects! :lmao:

For a smaller brake booster, you may want to look into some Wilwood stuff, but it's pricey just like everything else. Maybe there's a way to run a sort of hybrid hydroboost setup on a stock Yota brake system? Hydroboost can be found on 3/4-ton and heavier trucks; think 88-98 GM stuff and the diesel Rams. I'm not 100% sure how it works, but it uses the power steering fluid/pump to make the brakes work. Hardly touched it, never learned about it. :eek:

It might be another option...
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Didn't really see any boosters from Wilwood. I had seen some mention of the hydroboost, seems like a bit complex but it could be an option. From what I could find, it seems some have had success with doing a manual brake conversion but it's a little tricky to set up correctly.
 

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Didn't really see any boosters from Wilwood. I had seen some mention of the hydroboost, seems like a bit complex but it could be an option. From what I could find, it seems some have had success with doing a manual brake conversion but it's a little tricky to set up correctly.

I've built manual and Hydroboost systems before. If you are going with a ram assist steering I would go with manual brakes. Or run 2 power steering pumps to the the two systems independent of each other. The secret to manual brakes is a long pedal to increase your leverage on the master cylinders.

http://camburg.com/store/fabrication-parts/camburg-kinetik-brake-pedal-assembly/

Also to size your master to the caliper piston size and line size.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Thanks, I believe manual brakes is the ticket. Is there some rule of thumb or info floating around somewhere that details what master/piston/caliper sizes to run? Can't seem to find much, if anything. :dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Thanks, that's a big help. :cool: I suck at the internet.

Got carried away...



I also have some parts available and I'll be back in the area again for the week around Thanksgiving if anyone is interested.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacoma-marketplace/302487-04-part-out.html#post7695636
 

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Wicked!

You going to plate the frame, there were you added the frame rails?
 

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Discussion Starter #38
By the motor mounts?

The frame has about 10" section is plated on the inside where the motor mounts and the new frame rails meet up.

Think I should add some to the other side? Seems a little difficult since the old frame is about 2.5" and the new one is 2" wide.
 

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Oh, I didn’t see that the new portion was 2". Kinda funny, I sat and stared at that pict for a while, and never noticed how it trimmed down until now.


Plus you are all secretive with your build. I never saw mention of the materials used, just picts. lol but I don’t care, I like the picts. I’ll just bug you if I have questions.


If its plated on the inside I am sure that will be fine. You may want to add some strength if its .120 wall when you go to add CO's.

I think i may over build a little, but mine is plated from cab body mount all the way to the front body mount on the outside, I also plated the inside most of that distance as well. But i dont have a spiffy fabricated front clip yet.


I followed your link to Tacomaworld and had to laugh at this...... "My Post-Divorce Solid Axle Build!"

you to huh? she didn’t like the truck either? I started my swap damn near the day the paperwork was approved through the courts. Lol Life is better now :D
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Yeah she didn't like the truck. I'm surprised she didn't make me get rid of that too when we were married, seeing how she had me get rid of my dog and guns during that time. :mad: The build has been my therapy and stress relief.

I made a thread on RST specifically for the SAS portion of the build, less cluttered than my TW thread. :eek:

http://www.rocksolidtoys.com/forum/showthread.php?t=632
 
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