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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone ever have their E-Brake light just pop on for no reason and stay on for a few seconds and go back off? Does it around corners and under acceleration mostly, sometimes comes on and won't go off. I think I have a short somewhere, but I can't find it.

I have removed my factory kickpanels and replaced them with Qlogic ones for speakers, and I have had an alarm installed.

Heard somewhere that it could be that I need to change my brake pads, but I could be mistaken.

Danny
 

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Random Dude
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So what happens is that as your pads wear, the brake fluid goes down (less pad, more fluid in the lines to push the pad the same distance). So since your pads are probably wearing you should check them. If they're ok, then just top off the brake fluid reservoir and it should fix your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i'll have to check it, but I could swear it is up to the filled mark.

Danny
 

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I had the same problem with my 95. My rear brakes were out of adjustment causing my ebrake handle to be really loose. More than 12 clicks of travel. As I drove the handle would jiggle on and off the brake light switch on the emergency brake. It might even be a bad switch.
 

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Deal Master
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The brake light also doubles as a brake fluid sensor light-
The sensor is sensitive and likes the fluid in the reservoir to be at the max line- not just 1/2 way between min & max-
So top off the fluid to the MAx line, first-
- Then look into what casued the fluid to go lower (Brake pads wearing down - results in more fluid needed to move the pistions)

When you accelerate- the fluid in the reservoir moves around-
Kind of like low fuel light on a slope versus level surface
 

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Discussion Starter #11
How hard is it to bleed the old fluid out and replace it with a different kind? I want to run all royal purple, and now seems as goo a time as any.

Danny
 

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actually it is easy to flush ur brake fluid. its just like bleeding your brakes until the brake fluid come out clean thru the bleeder hole.
 

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Deal Master
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ddriggers2 said:
How hard is it to bleed the old fluid out and replace it with a different kind? I want to run all royal purple, and now seems as goo a time as any.

Danny
very easy with one of these
http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html
- You'll need atleast the universal model
- I usually take a syringe or turkey baster to remove the old fluid (until the low mark) from the reservoir-

If you do it the old fashion way - You'll need to have someone really keep an eye on the reservoir to keep it from going empty-

The Motive product is well worth the investment- I've used the handheld vac pump and am also quite familiar with the 2 man- "pump..pump..hold the brake" method.
 

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Deal Master
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This is for the next person that searches " parking brake light "

Pg 77 (1999 Owner's Manual)
(!) Brake System Warning Light
This light has the following functions:
-Parking Brake Reminder
-Low Brake Fluid level Warning
 

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The Oft-Asked Question.. Revisited

OK..

So I've done a lot of research on the boards on this whole Brake Light issue that seems to come up repeatedly, yet I still can't find a conclusive answer on a good diagnostic approach for determining the full cause of the problem if it's not low brake fluid.

My fluid is above the full line, and the brake light comes on in my truck only when I first start the vehicle up and release the e-brake. I am able to usually jiggle it and push the handle all the way into the retaining nook and it will go off.. but then come back on again until I jiggle it just right.

From what I can tell... most people say that this requires a parking brake/e-brake adjustment where the cable attatches to the lever.

However.... the site seems to recommend that if your parking brake is fully engaged with between 8 and 14 clicks... it should be fine. I counted the number of clicks that it takes to fully engage my brake, and it's somewhere around 9 or 10.... yet the brake still feels loose when not engaged.

I want to get under there and adjust it as soon as we have another good weather day(if ever), but now I'm a bit concerned that maybe it's not the adjustment on the cable.

I guess I need to tighten the E-Brake cable according to this?
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/wiki/index.php/Emergency_Brake_Adjustment

... or do you think that it is actually a problem with E-Brake sensor in the cabin?

One additional tidbit of info... When I first release the E-brake, and then step on the brake pedal, my brake pedal feels like it has a little bit of free playin the first 1/4" of travel(Just the first time i push it), then it feels fine after that... which makes me think that it could just be that pressure had to build up in my master cylinder. I figure I'd throw that in here, in case it has anything to do with problem diagnostics/resolution.
 

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There is a switch that when you release it's suppose to set off and turn off the light.. So yours obviously isn't releasing far enough to hit the switch. I'd start by checking the switch itself to see if there is any adjustment to it's position, and if not then playing with the adjustment for the cable.
 

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That link you provided should be the correct answer and solution. The cables stretch over time, I've adjusted mine twice in the seven years I've had it. If you're worried that the problem lies elswhere, you can mark where the nuts were so you can put them back to the exact location. But I'm 99% certain that should do the trick.

-Adam
NMTTORA
 

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interesting, this sounds like the prob im having. brake light comes on and off druing shifting. (5spd) I park on a real hill and one morning the brake stayed on after i released it. I didnt drift down the drive way like normal. I pressed the pedel and it wnet released.(the light was off before this) kinda feels like the brakes are dragging a bit. Im going to get down and try to oil the thing w/some PB Blaster

Andy
 

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partyman66 said:
OK..

So I've done a lot of research on the boards on this whole Brake Light issue that seems to come up repeatedly, yet I still can't find a conclusive answer on a good diagnostic approach for determining the full cause of the problem if it's not low brake fluid.

My fluid is above the full line, and the brake light comes on in my truck only when I first start the vehicle up and release the e-brake. I am able to usually jiggle it and push the handle all the way into the retaining nook and it will go off.. but then come back on again until I jiggle it just right.

From what I can tell... most people say that this requires a parking brake/e-brake adjustment where the cable attatches to the lever.

However.... the site seems to recommend that if your parking brake is fully engaged with between 8 and 14 clicks... it should be fine. I counted the number of clicks that it takes to fully engage my brake, and it's somewhere around 9 or 10.... yet the brake still feels loose when not engaged.

I want to get under there and adjust it as soon as we have another good weather day(if ever), but now I'm a bit concerned that maybe it's not the adjustment on the cable.

I guess I need to tighten the E-Brake cable according to this?
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/wiki/index.php/Emergency_Brake_Adjustment

... or do you think that it is actually a problem with E-Brake sensor in the cabin?

One additional tidbit of info... When I first release the E-brake, and then step on the brake pedal, my brake pedal feels like it has a little bit of free playin the first 1/4" of travel(Just the first time i push it), then it feels fine after that... which makes me think that it could just be that pressure had to build up in my master cylinder. I figure I'd throw that in here, in case it has anything to do with problem diagnostics/resolution.
people here are retarded, it should be like 6 to 8 clicks
 
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