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3K views 17 replies 4 participants last post by  DudeMan 
#1 ·
Been lurking around the forum for quite a while now, but never quite introduced myself in the PA chapter as of yet. I've met a few of you down the road but regardless, I just wanted to stop in and introduce myself.

Attempting my first build currently, link is in my signature. Feel free to give advice or tell me that I fucked something up. Progress is slow due to a recently arrived daughter, work/college and a broken finger.

Cheers!
 
#2 ·
Well there ya are! Bout time you show up :) how's typing with a broken finger? Just messin

You've had quite the last few months havent you?

Welcome...oh...you got a pm
 
#5 ·
Well, at some point...I had determined that a /\ effect was the way to go. After your comment I thought about it and...some more digging I discovered that I was wrong:(

Regardless, I have no problem changing it, besides that the hole in the bed is already cut out...wonderful. Anyway, it is now added onto the TO DO list.:saw:

Honestly, I kinda felt bad cutting brand new cross-members out. And cutting 5.5" off of the frame rails. But...I quickly got over it.
 
#6 ·
So, I'm learning here. Curious to know what is wrong with /\ set up on rear shocks. Can you put them in a bind that way when off camber?
 
#7 ·
Obviously I'm not an expert, but from my recent research( as in, yesterday)...it reduces the effectiveness of the shock, by a decent amount. Having them in a /\ fashion does give you the ability for more articulation...which makes sense if you think about how a /\ setup would perform under compression. However, like I stated before, it reduces the effectiveness of your shock by anywhere from 10%-40% and it increases your body roll if you're carrying weight.

If I can find the pages I found most of this info on I'll post them up.

And if I'm wrong, which is quite possible, please correct me.
 
#8 ·
Interesting...looks like I'm gonna have to do some more reading.

Question: how ineffective is the stock rear setup on these trucks? Ya know, one shock in front of axle and one behind.

I'm purchasing new billies for the rear. Wondering if it's worth even changing mine. I'm obviously still ifs so my rig won't be getting into the major off camber situations that a SAS will. But still curious.
 
#9 ·
I had the rear shocks setup /\ in my Tacoma with 2.5" lift springs and 35 and it was plenty stabil and flexed great. Ran 10" 5125 Bilsteins.

Currently I have OME shocks in the stock location in my 4 Runner and the flex is ok. I am going to be redoing them with 12" 5125 Bilsteins vertically through the floor to maximize the valving in the and flex.

Yes when you tilt a shock it looses some of it's effectiveness, but with Bilsteins you can order them with different valving or spend a little more on a rebuildable/tuneable shock like a Fox and dial it in to what you want.
 
#10 ·
JTaco, what angle were you running them at? Generally. I assume RockToy was suggesting that mine are at a little too severe of an angle...

If say I had my shocks at a 25 degree angle, in hopes of greater articulation/flex...would I want the valving to be heavier or softer than if I had them in a vertical setup?
 
#11 ·
Yeah your upper spacing is pretty close together

Can't remember the angle off the top of my head, but the lower mount was about where yours are on your axle and the upper spacing was around 12-14" apart. The more you have them angled the heavier the valving you would want to compensate for what is lost by angling them. I ran the 225/70 on mine and seemed to work well and will be running the same valving again.
 
#12 ·
Fwiw I just checked mine and they are 10degree's inward and forward for packaging. Pete's buggy is here and his are 4 degrees in. They drop effiency fast when you angle them. Closer to the tire they better they work and more stable the rig will be. You buy shocks to fit the vehicle not make them fit and hope for the best. Flexing the vehicle and measuring is the only way to tell.

Stock vehicles are valves for running shocks angled and staggered. Often times the factory mounts are made to aid in axle wrap control as well.
 
#13 ·
Ok so....if I were to get rid of the stock shock mounts (currently connected to that bracket along with the ubolts) and do a ubolt flip as well as weld new shock mounts...I would be welcoming unwanted axle wrap? Just curious cause, well I don't know :D
 
#14 ·
Well thanks for the info/insight. With what you guys have said and doing research I have a pretty good idea what I need to get done. This is what happens when you listen to the first person you talk to. I'm still learning!

Dudeman, here's two links for you. While I'd see no problem for you re-creating a "stock geometry" type setup...I think it'd be more work than it'd be worth?? I dunno. Anyway...

First...

And last...
 
#16 ·
Thanks guys. That helps.

Sorry Xcelr8 for hijacking.
 
#18 ·
Any more headway on your rig over the long weekend?
 
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