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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I called my local tire shop/garage and asked for a quote to install struts and coils (together and attached - no compressor needed) and the rear shocks (no leaf spring work) So basically just a bolt on job...the guy said 4hrs of labor - when I said that seemed a bit long, he said 'oh well, the parts may be rusty' ...I said they werent rusty, and he said 'ok 3 hours maybe'

This seems like a 45 minute job....MAYBE 2....I would do it myself but dont have a high lift.

Is this guy ripping me off - how long should this take - how much should it cost?

:confused:
 

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GodwinAustin said:
So I called my local tire shop/garage and asked for a quote to install struts and coils (together and attached - no compressor needed) and the rear shocks (no leaf spring work) So basically just a bolt on job...the guy said 4hrs of labor - when I said that seemed a bit long, he said 'oh well, the parts may be rusty' ...I said they werent rusty, and he said 'ok 3 hours maybe'
This seems like a 45 minute job....MAYBE 2....I would do it myself but dont have a high lift.
Is this guy ripping me off - how long should this take - how much should it cost?
:confused:
You don't need a hi-lift to do the job.

If you are just swapping shocks in the rear - you don't even need to lift the truck.

For the front- if the coils are already assembled-
- You can get by with a bottle jack & some jack stands
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Is there a writeup on this - I know its not difficult but considering I havent done it before it would be nice. So I assume just jack up each side and unbolt the assembly and put the new one in? Do the tires need to come off?

Just curious about the shop...how much should they be charging for this?
 

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Dude, you can do it yourself. Yes, the tires need to come off to install the struts. As for the rears just unbolt and install the new ones on. I think I'm the most non-mechanically inclined person on this board and I was able to do it, so if I can do so can you! BTW, the shop is bending you over big time! One hour for install if you don't have any rusted bolts.
 

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GodwinAustin said:
Is there a writeup on this - I know its not difficult but considering I havent done it before it would be nice. So I assume just jack up each side and unbolt the assembly and put the new one in? Do the tires need to come off?

Just curious about the shop...how much should they be charging for this?
http://www.bajataco.com/SAW-Install-1.html

For the rears, the tires do not need to come off but dropping your spare will give you more room to work.

I'd say 2 hours would be fair...then again, I'm not a mechanic.
 

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GodwinAustin said:
So I called my local tire shop/garage and asked for a quote to install struts and coils (together and attached - no compressor needed) and the rear shocks (no leaf spring work) So basically just a bolt on job...the guy said 4hrs of labor - when I said that seemed a bit long, he said 'oh well, the parts may be rusty' ...I said they werent rusty, and he said 'ok 3 hours maybe'

This seems like a 45 minute job....MAYBE 2....I would do it myself but dont have a high lift.

Is this guy ripping me off - how long should this take - how much should it cost?

:confused:

See the link on the above reply, however make sure you read this part carfully:
DO NOT REMOVE THE CENTER BOLT on the top of the coil-over assembly (this bolt holds the spring tension on the coil - severe injury may result if removed)
The picture looks a little deceiving and it may appear as though the ratchet is on the center bolt, but it isn’t. Otherwise that is all you do. Very simple and not a 4 hour job even for someone who has never done it. Good luck.
 

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If we were to do a simple job like that at our shop, I would charge 1.5 hours of labor if the bolts were rusty, 1 hour of labor if they weren't. Yeah, the shop is bending you over, but I am extremely fair, and usually charge less than what it actually took to do the job. The rear shocks bolt on at the top and bottom of the shock, so you just have to loosen the bolt and the top, and bolt and and nut at the bottom. Take them off, install new ones, tighten the bolts = 30 minutes at most. For the front, I would remove the tires because it would give you a lot more room. Simply unbolt the strut/coil at the top of the strut tower, and do the same at the bottom where it connects to the lower control arm, take it out, and replace it with a new one. Tighten everything up and you'll be set. That should take another 30 minutes. If anything is seized b/c of rust, salt, etc, bust out the MAPP gas (you can buy it at about any hardware store) and heat those nuts up for about 30-45 seconds. That will take care of it. Anyway, you should definitely be able to do this on your own, it's really easy. Or, you could junk all the IFS stuff and go solid axle!
 

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GodwinAustin said:
Is there a writeup on this - I know its not difficult but considering I havent done it before it would be nice. So I assume just jack up each side and unbolt the assembly and put the new one in? Do the tires need to come off?

Just curious about the shop...how much should they be charging for this?
i can take some close-up digi-pics for you.

the fronts have 3 nuts that hold the shock tower mount to the frame mount-cup. the bottom of the coilover is a single bolt holding it to the bottom a-arm.

the rear shocks are very simple.

let me know and i'll go crawl under and take some pics for you.

no worries, you can do the whole job yourself !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok - first off - I really appreciate all these replies as I am going up skiing this weekend and I want these babies on before then! :D

So this is the only thing I dont understand completely:
5. In order to install the lower bolt, you will need to place the bottle jack upside down between the underside of the fender well and the upper A-arm. Position the top cap of the bottle jack so it rests on the spindle bolt. Proceed to turn the jack so that it pushes the A-arms down until the lower shock mounting tabs are aligned with the bolt hole on the lower shock eye.

do I HAVE a bottlejack - and if not, where does this elusive beast reside(ie where can you buy the stupid thing?)
:eek:

you guys rock :)
 

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GodwinAustin said:
oh one more thing - and kind of important - are torque specs of particular importance here, or should I just tighten until its tight with a normal box wrench?
you dont need a bottle jack to do the install, just push down on the spindle while putting the lower bolt in, its that easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
other than the torque specs - just one more question:

The coils I am installing are stock TRD coils (in place of my crappy 97 suspension - not much better... but OME is coming soon)

anyways - I am not at home right now but I remember the coils have markings on them and I also remember hearing that the TRD coils are marked for drivers side, and passengers side.

How do I tell which coil is for the passenger side and which is for the driver side?

these are off a 2002 TRD tacoma xcab 4x4
 

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I installed my 3" lift (front struts and rear springs & shocks) in just under 5 hours.
I would think the front struts and rear shocks would take only 2-3 (if you take your time like I did).

I would advise doing it yourself, cause when your out on the trail and something breaks, you'll be able to fix it with confidence due to your experience.
 

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Its usally to different colors of like paint stratches I think mine had a yellow paint mark on one and a white on the other. Sorry i cant remember what side each went to. Its been about 3 yrs. ago. good luck man.
 

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GodwinAustin said:
Ok - first off - I really appreciate all these replies as I am going up skiing this weekend and I want these babies on before then! :D

So this is the only thing I dont understand completely:
5. In order to install the lower bolt, you will need to place the bottle jack upside down between the underside of the fender well and the upper A-arm. Position the top cap of the bottle jack so it rests on the spindle bolt. Proceed to turn the jack so that it pushes the A-arms down until the lower shock mounting tabs are aligned with the bolt hole on the lower shock eye.

do I HAVE a bottlejack - and if not, where does this elusive beast reside(ie where can you buy the stupid thing?)
:eek:

you guys rock :)
hey everyone, if the original poster doesnt even know what a bottejack is, do you really think he ought to be removing the tire and getting inside the wheel well to do this? i know everyone has to start somewhere, but this could be a potential safety concern if no one who is experienced is around.

godwinaustin: i'm not ripping on you for not knowing what a bottlejack is, but i just wanted you to be safe. make sure you have 2 jackstands in addition to the ghetto bottlejack that comes with your truck. this is not a particularly hard install, but can be potentially dangerous if the bottlejack slips out and you are inside the wheel well. best bet is to ask someone who has some experience to show you how. in return, toss the guy a few bucks or buy dinner and everyone goes home happy.
 
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