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Discussion Starter #1
I am in the midst of doing my research for linking my rear axle. As many know I do extensive research on such projects (yet still seem to have to do tweaking afterwards. :confused: )

anyway. many always tell me never look at the total cost before actually doing the project. I just can't do that! I have kids to feed so I have to know estimated prices before hand.

that leads me to the crux of this post. I tallied $1700 and some change to include the coil overs and duel rate coils. I figured this was pretty good since going into the idea I figured it would cost above the $2500 mark.

the coilovers are 16" Fox's w/reservoir. (anyone think these are going to be too long for rear of truck? I did measure from frame to axle at 16" but the body of shock is 22" should I go smaller? I don't want to have to go through bed)

On overall cost, I have to wonder…could I still do better? Providing this total encompasses the cost of tubing which I am getting at cost threw a friend.
 

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I suggest going with coils and leaving the shocks where they are if you already have the /\ thing going. That should keep you out of the stratosphere and hold the costs down at the same time. I think the overall project fab costs would be less too.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
but you were the one that suggested the coilovers! LOL and I have many others confirm the coilovers would give a better ride.

Also in consideration is the space on the axle itself. going with coilovers eliminates needing to mount the brackets for the control arms next to the shocks, next to the brake line brackets etc.

But yes! eliminating the price for coilovers would put the project just under $1000 as the coilovers themselves cost $730 for a set.
 

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16" under the bed?! You must have a huge ass truck! I'll be running 18's shortly and they're 48" extended. The extended length on those have to be around 40"+ or so. Unless you have an obscene lift I don't think they will fit properly. I'd keep the /\ like Dick said and coilover the front personally. If it ain't broke don't fix it! As for the rear, what do you have (how many inches of lift?) I would go with 12" or 14" short bodies, and even those 14's might be pushing it.
 

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what legth shocks do you now have? are you planning on raising or lowering truck? if not stay at same length.
I thing 14" is all you need if not going thru bed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
currently I have 14" bilstein 5150's under the bed. With the body lift and a bit of creative mounting I was able to make them fit. Problem being is I don't really like the way the ride is with the / \ as they are.

As I mentioned, I measured from the bottom of the frame (above the axle) down to the axle and it totalled exactly 16". I estimate after doing the solid axle, that I am around 13" over stock, 16" countiing the body lift. But I never accurately measured prior to any of my lifts to compare.

I do realize I have a tall truck especially with the body lift which I would like to do something about it but currently I feel I know its rollover point and feel comfortable wheeling it. One advantage I have had with the body lift is that I can mount things such as the shock bar on top of the frame and still have clearence. Where as with the body lift off, I would loose at least 3" off the shock length not to mention mounts points for some other accesories I have under the truck. (ie. roll cage mounts)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
See above Derek, but I have 14" shocks now angled. I want to loose the angle and have an idea on how to do so. and in turn I might even gain as much as three inches.

But I am still more than open to do 14" coilovers instead.

So no one has really answered me on the figure yet. Does that dollar amount seem fair? or is it a pipe dream to think it can be done for so cheap? Granted I realize I did not include the cost of nuts and bolts but I also realize I have a lot of bolts and nuts left over from doing the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well farther down the road, I think the bed will come off. But while also posting here I have been emailing/pm'n some other members on this topic.

and I believe threw y'all, I have come to executive decision of just going with 14" coilovers.

I understand what you are saying about doing coilovers up front with coils in the back, but for simplicity I am going to go with coilovers in the rear, just the shorter 14" variety.
 

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should have read whole thread before replying. jsut angling in shocks causes lots of bodyroll. put more on vertical but if you want angle on the other plane. 90degrees opposite. hope that makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yup that makes sense.

But to revisit something you just said. The body roll did play a factor in my decision on placement.

As it stands now with my shocks. I don't like the ride quality of them being / \. So I definitely wanted to "stand them up" and in doing research on the angles and such I did discover (I actually thought it out on my own believe it or not) that angleing the coilovers would create more body roll. as it stands I am pretty sure I am going to need to build a sway bar for the rear (which I did forget to add to my list) But I don't want to build anymore body roll into the rear than I truly have to.

Does that make sense?

My initial idea on the coilover placement is this: mount the coilovers off the top of the inside part of the frame via an extended shock tab (approx. 3-4" away from the inner frame plane…I will be plating the inside of the frame) and then mounting the bottom of the coilover either under or outboard the frame on the axle utilizing the control arm brackets I am going to custom make. This may all change slightly once we start welding things on and check for binding and such. but that is the initial idea.

The current shock bar I have will remain in place as it adds frame strength and a mounting point for my rock lights. :D
 

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hmmm was looking around for some ideas on spring rate for you and this is what Ive found so far:
these first 2 are trail only rigs:
1. Rear Springs: linked with 110/200 sway-away coilovers
rig: http://4-wheelin.com/images/upload/Medium 42s.JPG
2. The rear is 150 over 250 and it's got about 8" of up travel. I don't want to go any lower on the spring rates but it's still too high.
rig: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=260672&stc=1&d=1156799973

I'll keep updating this as I find more.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Granted I don't know all that much about this stuff yet, but the second set you found still seems soft. But again you know where I am getting the info from so I am sure you know more about it that I do.

The thing about coils, is that regardless of the rate, they are still the same cost.

you running sway away coil overs aren't you?
 

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You should wait and check out BallisticFabs 3 and 4 link kit they are going to release for 95-04 tacos. I am EAGERLY awaiting it.
 

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Bear said:
Granted I don't know all that much about this stuff yet, but the second set you found still seems soft. But again you know where I am getting the info from so I am sure you know more about it that I do.

The thing about coils, is that regardless of the rate, they are still the same cost.

you running sway away coil overs aren't you?
nope, I am running eibach coils made for a 2" coilover along with a pair of 7100 resi's.(non coil over)
I guess what it seems like on the coil over dual rate is the softer one will compress more first saoking up the smaller stuff where the heavier rate will be for the larger impacts or loads. (I think)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ha ha! there I go clouding up the water again. I meant the second set as in this:"2. The rear is 150 over 250 and it's got about 8" of up travel. I don't want to go any lower on the spring rates but it's still too high." not the second set of numbers. I understand the reasoning behind where to place the "heavier shock" which I would assume you would place on the top part of the coilover (another question for the Salesman)

Not to hijack my own thread, but you are running the 7100 also huh? I am running them on the front. Let me ask you, have you had any issues with the heim joint on the axle end stripping. causing the shaft to seperate from that joint? I had my passenger side do that about 6 months ago. Ended up welding the rod end on. Then last night the same thing happened on my drivers side. I also hit my resi hose on the drivers side with a cut off wheel while doing the SAS. I thought it was okay but recently discovered evidence of seapage so I ordered a new hose yesterday
 

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what about using air shox in the rear. i think you would be light enough if you don't haul lots of shit around. plus id just like to see someone put these to use in a tacoma.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I heard rumor they were working on something, but I don't know if I can/want to wait. Eventhough it won't be until the spring before I will actually be able to complete this project (weather about to get too cold up here to work outside where my truck only fits–can't get it into my garage anylonger)

I am also curious to see what size joints they put into the kit. The Heims I am using, excluding the johnny joints on the frame end are 4130 Chromoly 3/4" joints.

I know they "overbuild" most of their products but I have to seriously wonder if their joints are going to be that large. And even if they were that large…could they keep the price of the kit down using that type of joint? I found a smoking deal on joint personally (at least I think I did)

But I too will be interested to see what they can come up with! Do you have any idea on when the kit might hit?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
personally I know I can't get away using air shox, because of the weight I carry. I think (and I emphasize that)I would want some type of "mechanical" support such as a coil spring in case the air shox collasped for some reason or another. at least you would have some type of support for the limp off the trail head.
 

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Bear said:
ha ha! there I go clouding up the water again. I meant the second set as in this:"2. The rear is 150 over 250 and it's got about 8" of up travel. I don't want to go any lower on the spring rates but it's still too high." not the second set of numbers. I understand the reasoning behind where to place the "heavier shock" which I would assume you would place on the top part of the coilover (another question for the Salesman)

Not to hijack my own thread, but you are running the 7100 also huh? I am running them on the front. Let me ask you, have you had any issues with the heim joint on the axle end stripping. causing the shaft to seperate from that joint? I had my passenger side do that about 6 months ago. Ended up welding the rod end on. Then last night the same thing happened on my drivers side. I also hit my resi hose on the drivers side with a cut off wheel while doing the SAS. I thought it was okay but recently discovered evidence of seapage so I ordered a new hose yesterday
I know you ment the 2nd truck on the list! :D I was just thinging more about the dual rate calculator giving you those 500/550 numbers. Sorry I didnt explain that.
Ya I have heard about the ends breaking off the 7100's. How you you have them mounted? (bolt from front to rear of truck or from side to side) I hear that can make a huge difference.
 
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