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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I know there are 100 posts about CV axle replacements and I have read them all. I am going to be replacing my both driver and passenger this Friday and I am leaving out for a weekend trip Friday night so I need to do it as quickly as possible. Can anyone give me a list of tools to have ready and any extra parts I might need besides the axles? Any tips that you might have to speed up the process would be much appreciated too.

Thanks ahead of time....
 

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Ok I know there are 100 posts about CV axle replacements and I have read them all. I am going to be replacing my both driver and passenger this Friday and I am leaving out for a weekend trip Friday night so I need to do it as quickly as possible. Can anyone give me a list of tools to have ready and any extra parts I might need besides the axles? Any tips that you might have to speed up the process would be much appreciated too.

Thanks ahead of time....
Did ya bother reading the Wiki? Of course, dont cut the boots unless your replacing them....

http://www.ttora.com/wiki/index.php/ADD_CV_Boots

:doh:

I know the problem.....its an "O" State....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Yes I have read it and many other post here and on yoda tech. I am more or less looking for any tips to speed the process from the experienced folks here. And making sure I have everything before I start (i.e. new clips, bolts, seals) so I don’t have to run out to the store after I start.

And I don’t choose to live here "home is were the military puts you"
 

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This is a "pretaco" truck right?

You'll need 17mm wrenches and sockets for the bolts from the CV to the flange. A 12mm socket for the bolt that goes in from the end through the hub. Speaking of which - manual hubs? You'll need a 3.5mm allen (if they're Warn) or a 10mm socket (if they're Aisin) to get the cap off. Snap ring pliers make it easier to get the circlip off.

I forget what size the bolt is, but have found that removing the lower shock bolt seems to make it easier to get the CV out. The key is jacking up the a-arm as HIGH as possible. I have found putting a jackstand under the frame on the opposite side just in front of the rear tire helps you compress the suspension instead of lifting the front of the truck.

You should grease the spindle bushing REALLY well while you have the CV out.

I know you're pressed for time this time, but I highly recommend knocking/pressing out the studs and replacing them with bolts to make it easier in the future. IIRC the bolt size is M12-1.25x30mm.

Obviously, I've done this a few times...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the help. I got the passenger side on and off in about 25 min, but the drivers side I had a little trouble with but I put a piece of wood in the UCA and just disconnected the lower ball joint and it slid right in.
 
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