[roll-bar Bob]

leaky front axle AGAIN?????

on the drivers side of my front axle I am leaking 80/90 from where the cv comes out of the axle I called around and found a new seal but does anyone know if these axles just pull out of the the houseing ( like the rear axle shafts do ) or are there clips in the front pig? the truck is a 99 toco with abs and add hubs. I would appreciate any info on this seal replacement. I dont wont to be pulling :saw: when i should be unclipping




RBB

 

[Dick Foster]

Yes, the CV axles just pop out. They are retained by a spring type C clip. There are pry points build right into the Tulip joint housing specifically for the purpose of popping the axle out of of the axle housing.

 

[roll-bar Bob]

thanks


how do I get the C type clips back on when I have replaced the seal do you just thump them back in or is there a trick



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[Wgasa84]

Yes, the CV axles just pop out. They are retained by a spring type C clip. There are pry points build right into the Tulip joint housing specifically for the purpose of popping the axle out of of the axle housing.

Dick,
I've always used a prybar or something similar, it appears there may be a special tool to pop the cv's out?

 

[Dick Foster]

I found that a regular old tire iron of big ole screwdriver will get the job done.

 

[Dick Foster]

THey don't come off. They are a spring and will just squeeze into the groove when you pry the axle out. The same thing when you pop them back in. You'll want something like a long steel bar or a hard wood stick to use with a few taps from a hammer on the opposide end to get them back in with. Just place one end on the pry out detail and give it a few taps and it will pop right back in.

 

[roll-bar Bob]

but but putting it back together is done how ??????



how do I get the C type clips back on when I have replaced the seal do you just thump them back in or is there a trick



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[Dick Foster]

Read the previous post.

 

[roll-bar Bob]

thanks !!!!! cool :xrocker: zzy: zzy:



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[roll-bar Bob]

this thing must be off a little with the timing but thanks again


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[Dick Foster]

Yep, anytime.

 

[nastynate]

http://65.200.1.6/FSM/Repair_Manual/03tacoma/sa/fds4wd/comp.pdf

like dick said, it should just pop out. i've got the same problem with mine and will be doing the same process soon.

even better:
http://65.200.1.6/FSM/Repair_Manual/03tacoma/sa/fds4wd/remo.pdf

 

[roll-bar Bob]

thanks those are great!!!

I think i was playing to hard this weekend I am dowm a alternator too


that is the way it goes


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[roll-bar Bob]

I spent about 6 hrs under that truck replaceing those axle seals (cleaned out all the mud and was careful not to damage the seal reinstalling them ) and drove it to work Monday only to come out at lunch time to find that the passenger side was leaking again. how much play should there be in those axles I can wiggle them around ( +/- 1/16") and have about the same amount of slop in boath sides but one is leaking and one is not do I need new bearings??? did I over fill it ???? any ideas I wont to shoot it but know that wont work




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PS. I checked the vent befor I even started and it was clear

 

[roll-bar Bob]

Bump Up To Top

 

[Fishbone]

The seal on the passenger side is not meant to go in all the way. But there is no lip to stop it from going in all the way against the bearing. I just ruined one seal, and I'm going to do the new one right now. From what I understand, the seal is only to be tapped in 5.5mm. Now I didn't get clarification on this, but I'm assuming that's from the edge of the front diff tube to the face of the seal. At least I hope that's what it is, 'cuz I'm going to go with the 5.5mm right now.

--Scott

 

[roll-bar Bob]

[email protected]@!!!!!!!!!!!! :soapbox: :banghead: :banghead:



THAT MEANS I NEED TO DO IT ALL OVER AGAIN JUST TO GIVE YOU A HEADS UP I FOUND IT EASIER TO TAKE OUT THE 4 BOLTS AT THE TOP OF THE BALLJOINT THAT HOLD THE LOWER BALLJOINT ON, THAN TRYING TO POP THAT BALLJOINT WITH A PICKLE FORK AND NOT RIPPING THAT BOOT. GOOD LUCK KEEP ME POSTED I WILL NOT HAVE TIME TO WORK ON MINE TILL SAT THE 14TH





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[Fishbone]

[email protected]@!!!!!!!!!!!! :soapbox: :banghead: :banghead:



THAT MEANS I NEED TO DO IT ALL OVER AGAIN JUST TO GIVE YOU A HEADS UP I FOUND IT EASIER TO TAKE OUT THE 4 BOLTS AT THE TOP OF THE BALLJOINT THAT HOLD THE LOWER BALLJOINT ON, THAN TRYING TO POP THAT BALLJOINT WITH A PICKLE FORK AND NOT RIPPING THAT BOOT. GOOD LUCK KEEP ME POSTED I WILL NOT HAVE TIME TO WORK ON MINE TILL SAT THE 14TH





RBB

Yeah, the 4 bottom bolts are easier than the ball joint...lol, just make sure you use loc-tite when you put those bolts back in....don't want those coming loose!
FYI, I knocked the seal in the 5.5mm, and it looks a lot better than the first time that I pushed it all the way in. Haven't driven it yet, it still needs some work, but I'll let you know if it leaks!

--Scott

 

[cooper4x4]

I have changed these seals many times. Did you use a seal tool to get the seal into the housing?If not then you may have put it in at an angle so it doesn't seal properly. So its time to redo the pass side. Either that or you didnt get all the mud cleaned up from the area.

 

[roll-bar Bob]

I Made Sure That I Did Not Damage The Seal But I Did Drive That Thing In Till It Was Tuching The Bearing. The Worst Part Is That The Dude At The Parts Counter Told Me To Just Tap It In Lightly Till It Stops That Is What I Did. Now Thinking Back On My Tear Down I Do Remember That Seal Only Being In There A Little Ways. I Half To Put A Pinion Seal In The Front Of My T-case That Weekend Too I Will Just Add It To The List Of Things To Do.






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