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Unfortunately I haven't been to Rock Run, so I am not sure how the trails compare to Rausch or the former Paragon, but with the mods in mind, it sounds like a great all around truck. I will say that once you go to 35's the front end will start to hate you such as steering rack, bushings and ball joints.

As for Pirate :D it is quite expensive to go with a geared Lefty all said and done and still leaves you with 1:1 high range and stupid low in lo range.

Another area that you could save some money would be the crossmember. When I had my Tacoma and was getting the parts together for dual cases, I got a bracket from another member that has duals in his Tacoma that welded to the back of the stock crossmember and bolted to the crawl box. It was very simple and worked quite well. Probably cost about $10 to make out of 1/4" steel.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Unfortunately I haven't been to Rock Run, so I am not sure how the trails compare to Rausch or the former Paragon, but with the mods in mind, it sounds like a great all around truck. I will say that once you go to 35's the front end will start to hate you such as steering rack, bushings and ball joints.

As for Pirate :D it is quite expensive to go with a geared Lefty all said and done and still leaves you with 1:1 high range and stupid low in lo range.

Another area that you could save some money would be the crossmember. When I had my Tacoma and was getting the parts together for dual cases, I got a bracket from another member that has duals in his Tacoma that welded to the back of the stock crossmember and bolted to the crawl box. It was very simple and worked quite well. Probably cost about $10 to make out of 1/4" steel.
Yeah...the 33's will prolly be a staple...at least for a long while. I'm not sure I wanna open the can of worms that is steering, ball joints, etc. I like working on my truck but, not with that pesky shit.

As for the lefty...after it being beat into my skull :confused: I understand the downfalls of it now. And in all honesty, for my wheeling level, the duals will more than suffice. Plus I now see the many more gearing options you get form them is much more practical vs. the lefty. As for crossmember and driveshafts...I can take care of the crossmember...having a welder now I think I could fab something up for that. But for driveshafts...I'll have to outsource that.

When I'm ready to pull the trigger, be ready, cause I'll probably be picking your brain as to exactly the best way to go about this. It's still new to me and I don't wanna half ass it just to get duals. I wanna do it right and be sure I have a solid setup under my ass. :D
 

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By all means get duals....i went from duals in my tacoma to a single 4.7 case in my current truck and it sucks....i hate not having the stock low range as a option for mild trails / access roads / trails that require wheel speed.

As far as strength....i bought Andy's dual setup after his truck went back and put it behind my v-6 and wheeled it all over / dayly drove it with zero issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
By all means get duals....i went from duals in my tacoma to a single 4.7 case in my current truck and it sucks....i hate not having the stock low range as a option for mild trails / access roads / trails that require wheel speed.

As far as strength....i bought Andy's dual setup after his truck went back and put it behind my v-6 and wheeled it all over / dayly drove it with zero issues.

Good to know...thanks man :)
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Well, quick update just in case anyone cares. I'm merging my "shafted" thread into this one for simplicity.

After much debate, lots of reading and many recommendations from folks, I've decided to go duals and forget the lefty.

I have sourced a spare driveshaft. Rear from Xcelr8 (thanks man) and front from junkyard. Now I just gotta take it to the local driveline shop to get modified for duals.

I'm going with the built Tacoma Double case from inchworm - 23 spline. Since my truck is a DD, it was the best option for me. I bit more pricier than building my own but, a lot less downtime on truck and I trust inchworms skills much more than mine :)

At any rate, I'll update more later (most likely with pics) when the case comes in and driveshafts are ready.

This is fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
The goodies have arrived :D



Now it just a matter of finding the time to build a crossmember support and install. Oh, and get shafts modified.
 

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Plug the unused hole in the crawl box where the shift rail is missing. If you don't you will fill the tail housing of your tranny with gear lub from the crawler
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Plug the unused hole in the crawl box where the shift rail is missing. If you don't you will fill the tail housing of your tranny with gear lub from the crawler
Gotcha! Thanks.

You mean this hole? The shift rail is in the other hole.

]

How do you suppose I go about doing that? Inchworm did not supply a plug for that hole...I don't think. Didn't see one anyhow.
 

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I used a rubber expansion plug I got at ace. I would also try and cover te plug with permatex. Rubber and oil don't get along well.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Thanks for the heads up. I appreciate it. That sounds like something I'd screw up.

About Permatex...I've been looking at a few of those. Is this the best stuff for plugging holes and sealing adapter plates?

http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_permatex_ultra_black_maximum_oil_resistance_rtv_silicone_gasket_maker.htm

or

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/permatex_permashield_fuel_resistant_gasket_dressing_flange_sealant.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I used a rubber expansion plug I got at ace. I would also try and cover te plug with permatex. Rubber and oil don't get along well.
Any other little things that I might over look? Or tricks that you veterans may have?

I'm a reduction box virgin.
 

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Yes. If your clocking the t case you need to plug the stock breather and relocate it. Either by tapping the top left of the shifter or by t-ing into the breather for the push button 4x4 actuator. If you don't oil will come out the breather
 

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The goodies have arrived :D



Now it just a matter of finding the time to build a crossmember support and install. Oh, and get shafts modified.
It looks like there is a drain hole where the lower bearing goes. Wtf? I don't remember that. Maybe Jim changed the designe to use the tranny tail housing for extra oil capacity. Maybe give him a call to find out
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Yeah...I noticed that. There is actually two. One big and one small one. That would seem to me like a lot of unnecessary oil. I've got lots of questions. I'll talk to him.

Thanks Andy for these lil tips.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
It looks like there is a drain hole where the lower bearing goes. Wtf? I don't remember that. Maybe Jim changed the designe to use the tranny tail housing for extra oil capacity. Maybe give him a call to find out
No need to plug the unused shift rail hole due to those lower holes in the adapter. Reason those holes are there is that on the previous models...on steep declines...those who did not plug the shift rail hole would lose oil in the tail housing and it had no way to get back in gear box. So they drilled lower holes. And...for extra oil capacity.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Finally got something done to update with:

Before:



After:

 

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Discussion Starter #59
Ha. Yeah...i'm having a hard time finding the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #60 (Edited)
Well...all done. Still have the floor board wide open to keep an eye on shifter leaks and stuff. But other than that. She's all in.

Below are some pics but this is not a how to thread. I'm sure most of you know "how to" anyways.

First I marked up the holes that needed plugged and drilled out the hole that needed drilled.



Then I cleaned everything up, painted the surfaces with gasket maker, placed gasket in then bolted up tranny adapter.



Now on to t-case. That damn coupler was on there good.



Got the two cases ready, cleaned them up, sealed them, and bolted up.





Then prepared tranny. The pic below just shows the coupler. The seal extension has to go on yet. I had to plug the mount holes with JB cause they went the whole way through the housing. :mad: Got a lil sloppy with the JB.



Then, lots of other steps but it's in:



So...Looks like it went flawlessly right? Think again. Let everything set overnight then I checked it all out for leaks in the morning. Low and behold, it was leaking between the two rear adapters. Why? Well, cause I forgot to fawking seal them. :eek:

Dropped the t-case, took off rear adapter, sealed it and re-installed. Good to go. Not so fast. when I installed the second time, I torqued the bottom bolts of the stock t-case first and worked my way up without checking shifter movement. Sure enough, it was misaligned just enough to block the shift rail. I was stuck in 4lo :D

So the next day, dropped t-case again, scraped, cleaned, re-sealed and re-installed. This time torquing the top two bolts next to shift rail to lock that in place...tested shifter movement then worked my way down to the other bolts. Everything is operating correctly now

Finally good to go. For real this time. I guess just rookie bonehead mistakes.

But I learned a lot and that's a good thing. Even though it was the hard way.
 
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