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Discussion Starter #1
does anyone have any suggestions on new gears and locker for my 95 tacoma, i want new gears to help with the bigger tires i plan to get . and i want a good inexpensive locker to help me tear up that mississippi mud.
thanks for any suggestions :D
 

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"Terry Tate"
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you can get a Lockrite for relatively cheap. It will have the road characteristics, though. Popping, clunking, etc. You can adjust your driving style to accomodate it, though. As long as you don't want to race everywhere you go and around turns, you will be fine.
 

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Going John Galt
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mattstaco said:
does anyone have any suggestions on new gears and locker for my 95 tacoma, i want new gears to help with the bigger tires i plan to get . and i want a good inexpensive locker to help me tear up that mississippi mud.
thanks for any suggestions :D
what engine/tranny do you have?
'95 pre-tacoma or a '95.5 Tacoma?
what size tires are you looking to get?

the only 'cheap' locker is the Lockrite but you get what you pay for so do some searches to get more info on the handling characteristics, etc.
If all you are wheeling in is mud you could look into an LSD. Chris is selling the OE Toyota LSDs for under $200 right now at trdparts4u.com
 

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Going John Galt
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mattstaco said:
i have a 2.7 auto, tacoma and i want to end upi running 33's
idealy you will need to regear to 4.88s to get to the current "stock" ratio (4.56 with the AT and 2.7) for your setup. You could go with 4.56s (giving you an 'adjusted' ratio of 4.28:1) and 'survive' however and have lower rpms at hwy speeds.

I'd go with the 4.88s for gears.

as for a locker. do some serious research including driving some rigs with Lockrites in the rear. the ARB is an open diff just like you have now until you hit the switch; its pricy but worth it, IMO. The Lockrite is always locked...there is some 'give' to it in certain circumstances but for the most part it is locked all the time. You can get used to it, however; many members have them and do just fine. Just try and find out as much hands-on info as you can before you install.

gears/install kit, parts, will run around $350/axle; labor will varry depending on labor rates in your area and how much work you can do yourself....$150-$400/axle if you take in the rear 3rd and front diff and $700-$1500 if you just drop off the truck.

the lockrite is around $250 with no additional labor.
ARB and compressor will run around $850.

lift to clear the 33s...$600 to $1800+ depending on what you get/want.
tires/wheels...$600+/???


welcome to the money pit ;)
 

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Banned
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i've done some searching for last year or so. the PowerTrax "NoSlip" is a very nice unit for on/off road posi action.
 

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I think the Powertrax no-slip is a full lock up, not posi. I could be wrong though.
 

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Cracker
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mattstaco said:
how much do you think . and will it hurt my tires or my truck? :confused:
Tearing up Mississippi mud wil do more long term damage than a Lockrite. :)
Seriously, I have put my lockrites (F&R) through hell and haven't had a problem. As with anything, understanding the function & limits of the equipment is important.

If you want street manners like you have now, than a limited slip unit is a better choice. Barb at www.trdparts4u.com has a deal on the TRD ones, see the post in the sponsors section.
 

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I would totally have to say 4.56's. I'm thinking of regearing to those in a year or two when I finally go up in tire size from the 31's I'm running now. I almost put some in my '92 toyota when I was running 35's to gain some of my 5th gear back. I had a not so bad price I think $750 front/rear/installed/complete install kit. I don't think that was all that unreasonable.

Would you guys think that is a good price?
 
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