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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I was active on this forum 10 years ago when my Taco was new. I posted this on the newbie forum and did a search and could not find any info-but I know I am not the only one to have seen this. I have a 2000 taco ext. cab TRD 5 spd 4WD. It has the rear end locker, anti-lock brakes and auto hubs. It is stock with 73000 miles on it. I have been getting a high pitched ping/ring in the driveshaft when on/off the gas and fwd to reverse. U joints and center bearing check good. It seems to be coming from the transfer case rear output/driveshaft area. We tightened the T/C output nut and that helped for a couple months and now it's back. So I replaced the rear T/C output companion flange and used a new nut. It appears the nut is bottoming out on the shaft now because even when torqued to 87 ft-lb per the manual the flange has a slight loosness to it on the T/C output shaft. All I can figure is a bearing problem in the T/C is allowing this-any history of this or ideas? Thanks, Mark
 

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I havent a clue what it would be considering I havent had my truck long or had time to tinker around on it but I would LOVE to know what the hell that sound is cause mine is doing it as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Lubed the D/S FIRST THING-no help!!!!!!!!!!! I didn't want to overwhelm the details on this but the plot thickens......... When the truck was brand new it had a wierd rumble on deceleration that was a bad rear end. With 1500 miles on it Toyota put in a new rear end (third member). Per the district mgr they also threw in a tranny. At 57000 miles the rear end went out again. The forward pinion bearing was toasted so bad my tech said he was kinda surprised it didn't seize. Toyota paid parts and I paid labor since it was out of warranty for time only by a year and a half. Toyota was jerky about it and I had to pull teeth to get that resolved with letters and everything-as if bearings and seals care about how old they are-it's obviously miles that matter. I took the drive shaft out as soon as I got the truck back from Toyota and had it checked out. It was straight and they spun it and it needed a little weight but the D/S guy said it wasn't enough weight to toast a pinion bearing. The side bearings looked great so we figured it was some loose metal left over from the first diff failure that caused the second one to go. Now at 73000 miles I have the T/C issues and I am starting to wonder if I got a bad slip yoke from the factory that is end loading the shaft as I hit bumps. The shaft feels OK-the slip yoke takes about 3 to 5 pounds force to move on the work bench. Maybe the splines are cut bad and it locks up under load? I kept up on my maintenance pretty well and lubed the D/S regularly and it RARELY goes off road. Any ideas wassup?

P.S. Is there oil flow between the transfer case and the transmission? I think my first step is to replace my slip yoke/drive shaft-the only thing in common with the T/C and the rear end. I can then let the T/C eat itself if there is no oil flow with the tranny.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Replaced both u joints and checked the cv joint when I had it out-new center bearing too.........
 

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P.S. Is there oil flow between the transfer case and the transmission? I think my first step is to replace my slip yoke/drive shaft-the only thing in common with the T/C and the rear end. I can then let the T/C eat itself if there is no oil flow with the tranny.
no, they are separate units with separate breathers.

have you compared your DS length with others?

you got a weird one here ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The drive shaft has plenty of end play at the slip joint available, but I see your train of thought and I agree. It appears with this many problems the drive shaft is putting excessive end load on the rear pinion and transfer case. I am going to a drive shaft place today and get it checked for a binding slip joint.
 

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i am having the same problem and i have tracked it down to the output flang on the transfercase. i'm not sure what to do from here. i would like to here what you find out.
 

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i am having the same problem and i have tracked it down to the output flang on the transfercase. i'm not sure what to do from here. i would like to here what you find out.
did you isolate the tcase by unbolting the driveline?
 

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yes i found that if you rock the truck back and forth it will make the ping sound and you can feel the ping at the front of the driveshaft. so i pulled the driveshaft and the u joint checked out so i focused on the tranfercase. there i found a little in and out movement in the transfer output flang. i dont know if thats normal, also i didnt tightened the nut because it looks like some sort of locking nut.
 

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yes i found that if you rock the truck back and forth it will make the ping sound and you can feel the ping at the front of the driveshaft. so i pulled the driveshaft and the u joint checked out so i focused on the tranfercase. there i found a little in and out movement in the transfer output flang. i dont know if thats normal, also i didnt tightened the nut because it looks like some sort of locking nut.
you can't tighten that nut w/o bending back the keeper tab.
and I can't remember if there is supposed to be any in/out play but I don't remember any on mine....anyone else??
 

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Ive had the same noise for about 3 years. I chased it for a while and i believe its in the transfer case. if replaced everything in the rear driveline with no luck. Im done chasing it when it breaks ill fix it
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK. Guys I waited until I felt that I really have a handle on this and now that I really believe I do here's what's up. I got the truck up on a rack and put the parking brake on. I had a buddy get in the truck and go from first to reverse and back just barely letting the clutch out until the ping was heard. It was coming from the output flange for the rear driveshaft at the transfer case. We tightened the transfer case output shaft nut and restaked it and the noise went away for a couple months. But the noise came back so I believed it had worn some play in the splines. Since the shaft is much harder than the flange I replaced the flange. When I did that I replaced the tranfer case rear main seal (making a seal driver tool from a ABS plumbing adapter from Home Depot). It appeared to be fitting fine. I torqued the nut to spec and was ready to call it a day when my buddy grabbed the shaft with his thumb and fore finger and the flange with his other hand and it had a tiny amount of play!!!!!!!!!!!!!! We removed the nut and mic'd the ID of the relieved area of the nut and the OD of the shoulder on the shaft and found the relieved area of the nut was just a few thousanths smaller than the shoulder on the output shaft. So the nut was bottoming out on the shoulder of the shaft just before it seated against the output flange! So I needed to find a way of taking up the play so the nut would seat against the flange and not bottom out on the shoulder of the output shaft. If you remove the output flange there are two shims that mic about .030 as I recall just under the flange that space it away from the speedo gear. I replaced those two spacers and added a third one. (You can clearly see the spacers on the parts diagram on the dealer's computer.) By adding a third spacer I took up the gap and the ping went away and it is rock solid. I only have a few thousand miles on it since but so far all is well.
Since the truck had the rear end issues and now this in its past I replaced the drive shaft too while it was out since I suspected a binding slip joint as causing the loss of two forward pinion bearings in 75000 miles. That might have been over kill but at least it all works fine now.
 

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Old thread but just wanted to say that I had been having the "driveline ping" when initially loading the driveline in forward or reverse since I bought the truck a year ago (2001 tacoma 2.7l 5spd 4x4 ext cab). I tried greasing the propeller shaft and tightening all bolts and checking u joints and nothing worked. I tried adding the 3rd shim in today and so far the ping has gone away and it definately feels more solid. I hope there will be no adverse affects from adding the shim.. but for now im happy to be free of the ping.
 

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Can anyone post a parts diagram or some sort of visual aid? Mine has been doing this for a few years and it drives me crazy. Thanks
 

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Can anyone post a parts diagram or some sort of visual aid? Mine has been doing this for a few years and it drives me crazy. Thanks
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/101650-replacing-transfer-case-output-shaft-oil-seals-how-diyers.html

Here is a great write up for getting to the spot you need to add the washer. This DIY is of the front driveshaft but its basically the same for the rear. You need to go to toyota and order a washer and a new nut (#33309H for the washer and #36104D for the nut ). I just removed the whole 2 piece driveshaft by unbolting the rear flange, center support bearing and transfer case flange. Once it was out all i needed to do was remove the transfer case staked nut and pull the flange off. When you look into the transfer case you can clearly see the 2 existing washers. Simply add one more and put everything back together. Ensure that you restake the nut and also mark all parts of the driveline before dissassembly to ensure it all goes back together properly.

Let me know if you have anymore questions. I was skeptical when doing this because I figured a single washer couldnt fix the problem but for the past 2 days my driveline has bee silent and feels way more solid.
 

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Awesome, thanks! I've had the rear dshaft out many times so this should be an easy fix
 

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ping

The shim trick did not work with my 1995.5 tacoma. Since I have a speedo cable, the output assy is different containing no shims. I tried to put them in there, but it didn't help. Just letting the older tacoma owners know this will not fix the ping.
 
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