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Discussion Starter #1
I mentioned this in another post but there wasnt a whole lot of talk because it quickly swithed topics

now on to my question/theory. I would like more travel out of the front end while still keeping a stock look (non SAS) i like long travel but dont like having my wheels stick out 3.25-3.5in more on each side. so i was thinking maybe buying a longtravel kit but then moving the lower and upper control arms in 3.25-3.5in. By doing this I would hope to get more travel, keep stock cv's, and keep a stock lifted look.

the picture below shows my thoughts on moving the lower control arm in. havend drawn a uppercontrol arm pic yet.

Please keep in mind that this is just an idea, any negative flaming critisim is not needed. Educated opinions and ideas are welcome

 

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Why not do extended coilovers and UCAs and removal of the swaybar? I think it would be too much work and would make your truck very tippy. Have you seen LT trucks take turns? They LEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAN ALOT, if it wasn't for their wider track it would be very scary.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
nope havent seen many turn.. but how soft the spring is has todo with the whole lean problem, that and no sway bar
 

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I saw an article once where someone was pulling 12" travel up front on a stock width Tacoma by swapping in either 8" or 10" coilovers and tweaking a few things around. I think it was on www.offroad.com or something...don't remember

Just fab up your own center mounted a-arm kit...even with stock width you'll be pulling some gooood travel :)
 

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That set up probably won't give you what you are looking for. It will change the geometry between the upper and lower CA's also. The travel issue is basically dictated by the axle pivot points. The CV can only take so much angle change before it breaks, binds, or pre-maturely wears out. If you were to move the CV's inboard, then you would gain the ability to increase the travel by lengthening the axles. Since this is not possible on this truck, you are stuck with the only other option, widening the track width. The long travel guys move the outer CV, because it is the easiest solution, but they also lengthen the upper arm.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That set up probably won't give you what you are looking for. It will change the geometry between the upper and lower CA's also.
if you move the lower/upper control arms back the same amount and keep the same ofset ratio between the two it would work. but CVs is the biggest issue
 

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if you move the lower/upper control arms back the same amount and keep the same ofset ratio between the two it would work. but CVs is the biggest issue
Very true, but there's no room for that mod on the upper arm. Plus, you would be going backwards by shortening the axle. So, in effect you would gain zero useable travel. Unless you are prepared to widen the track width, you're pretty much stuck with what you have. The other option would be to mount another diff in the front, like a ford 9 inch chunk with stub axle set up and porche 930 CV's. These Cv's can take a shit load of abuse and would give you more travel. you could offset the diff a few inches and use a double cardan front shaft to get rid of the vibe issue from the misalignment. That way the axle shafts would be closer to the same length. That would be turning this into a real science project. Just how badly do you want LT without the added track width?
 

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I am pretty sure moving the suspension arms would be a dumb idea. Only because how difficult it would be to remount and set so that it functions and tracks right. Additionally this is no easy job as working off a existing vehicle that is not made for that screws up any easy route.

You'd have to remount the engine and probably reposition it which is not a easy task either.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
looks like a pretty decent setup, i should switch to manual hubs. i just happen to get a smokin deal on ADD style when i did my 4x4 conversion
 

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It's kinda been mentioned already, but even if you didn't go with a different diff up front, you'd have to do some serious modification to the stock diff to get the CV's to mount any further inboard. That by itself would likely be incredibly expensive... both in modifying the diff and modifying the CV shafts to work with it.
 

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By moving the long travel lower arms in you would also have to change where the coilovers mounted on the lower arms.

It all seems like way to much work for what you are tyring to acheive.

I believe this link is just another site with the same build, but figured it might help

http://toyota.off-road.com/toyota/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=186279
 
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