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Been running Mobil 1 full synthetic 10w30..thinking of going to something thicker. Reason being is that I am thinking that the 10W30 thins out too much with the high heat of the SC 3.4 I am even running an external oil filter relocation kit that adds 2 extra quarts to my system. I know guys that race that are running 20-50 weight, but that seems a bit extreme.

Also, does anyone know for certain what degrees the engine is when the temp needle is at halfway? Mine usually runs a bit above half.

Looking for some feedback on this because it's time to change my oil! Thanks guys.
 

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ugly's ok said:
Most cars and truck will run at about 185degrees if it is still stock.I'm from ohio so 20/50 is good for the summer and 5/30 is good for the winter
Actually, most modern EFI motors run 195 degree thermostats. As for the oil, going too much thicker will make the crank sluggish. With the bikes I used to race, we ran 20-50 standard, but when it came race day, we ran 15 wt. oil. It was worth some extra rpm, and the bikes would rev up a lot quicker. Scott Russels' Ninjas ran oil as low as 5wt. The motors were pretty wasted after one race of that abuse. Maybe try 5-40. Oh yeah, as for the motor parts I was looking into for you: Cams were by a company called Tamachi (Japan) Pistons were JE, rods were Carillo. Motec injection/ engine management, with some motors running 8 injectors- 2 in the intake, 6 dedicated in the ports. Valves were ??? no one would say. Maybe made in-house. Headers were by several different shops, some in-house. Cranks were super knife edged, motors run semi-dry sump. Flywheels were heavier by 2-6lb. The motor I really liked had 2 stage injection in the intake, and they said it was actually a mild state of build for endurance racing. Made 400hp from a 3.0 taco motor. So much for "3.slow....."
 

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Bonzen said:
Been running Mobil 1 full synthetic 10w30..thinking of going to something thicker. Reason being is that I am thinking that the 10W30 thins out too much with the high heat of the SC 3.4 I am even running an external oil filter relocation kit that adds 2 extra quarts to my system. I know guys that race that are running 20-50 weight, but that seems a bit extreme.

Also, does anyone know for certain what degrees the engine is when the temp needle is at halfway? Mine usually runs a bit above half.

Looking for some feedback on this because it's time to change my oil! Thanks guys.

I think you would be better to add an oil cooler. If you get a ScanGaugeII, $130 thru 1/14 it gives you exact temps.

Its better to pick one weight and keep it year round, your engine will like it better.
 

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Ive heard running thicker oils when its not needed actually doesnt disipate the heat like thinner oils do because of the added viscosity. I would add a oil temp gauge to see what your actually running then go from there.
 

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The 5vz has a very nice oil cooler stock. It does a fantastic job of maintaining a very stable oil temp. There is no reason at all to run a thicker oil.

Remember, oil has two functions, lubrication and internal cooling. A thicker oil will flow less, reduce internal cooling and may not flow well enough to provide critically needed lubrication on cold starts and warm up where most all the engine wear occurs.

I run AMSOIL Series 0w30 in all of my trucks including my three boosted Toyota engines. All have oil pressure and oil temp gauges.
 

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If you are still running the stock oil pump and run thicker than stock oil won't that make your rig"s oil pump work harder leading to a shorter pump life?
 

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Hey Gadget...

On a semi-side note... I am getting ready to put a amsoil bypass on my taco. It has the OEM oil cooler between the filter and block. Do you think a single bypass that steals from the oil psi switch or the dual remote would be better? I like the dual remote because you dont need a seperate return, but dont want to hinder the OEM cooler... thou it probally would help not hinder???
 

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Also, does anyone know for certain what degrees the engine is when the temp needle is at halfway? Mine usually runs a bit above half.
There is a wide range of temps that still read about halfway, get a real temp gauge or hook up a laptop to your OBDII and check it. The Toyota factory gauges are just a small step above an idiot light.

Here's some good reading on oil viscosity:
http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/index.html
 

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If you are still running the stock oil pump and run thicker than stock oil won't that make your rig"s oil pump work harder leading to a shorter pump life?
Oil pumps have the easiest job in the engine. Oil is just about the best thing imaginable to pump. There's plenty of lubrication, its temprature controlled, its engine driven (no motors), and its a relativly constant pressure. Things have to go pretty wrong before an oil pump has a true failure.
 
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