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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Title hints at topic.

Drive will be ~40 miles of hilly Sierra foothills where I have one stretch that will allow for OD for about five miles. It is curvy and some "steep" inclines. For those familiar with going from Georgetown to Rubicon, that matches the drive perfectly.

I've got a stock 2002 extra cab Tacoma TRD with 3.4L with manual trans. I'm looking at getting a second first gen(more info later) Vehicle will stay mostly stock. No oversized tires or aggressive MT tires.

First question is how bad is the power difference between the 2.7L and 3.4L? Will I have my foot to the ground for hills with the 2.7L?

Second question is what is real world MPGs of 2.7L for non-freeway driving? I know that my 3.4L with manual will get close to 17mpg for my route.

Third question is how bad is the power difference between manual and auto transmissions? Is the auto really the dasher of hopes?:LOL:

Fourth question is how much MPGs does the auto suck up compared to the manual?

Last question, how much will I hate going from 3.4L manual to a 2.7L auto in terms of power?

Additional info:
I need 4wd due to snow. It will not be wheeled in any serious method. Buying a summer car for mpg is out of the question; hand calculations say ZERO savings between gas and reg/insurance.

I'm hoping to pull in a bit more MPG over what I'm getting now. The truck will used for "business" purposes and an auto will be helpful for the intended use. I WILL be getting a new to me car for the "business" and using my personal truck for the "business" is not an option.

As a data point, for the same drive, I couldn't break 25mpg while driving a Chevy Spark because the gas pedal was against the firewall trying to maintain speed.
 

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On my 2000 3.4L driving stop and go with one lane bridges and lots of curves I got 20MPG. That was at at 10 miles. 40 miles open road I got 23MPG up to 3000ft elevation.
 

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My 2012 4.OL gets 16 MPG! F!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
On my 2000 3.4L driving stop and go with one lane bridges and lots of curves I got 20MPG. That was at at 10 miles. 40 miles open road I got 23MPG up to 3000ft elevation.
Was that with an auto?

My problem isn't exactly stop and go traffic but lots of curves and "steep" elevation changes that don't allow any OD driving and at times make me stay in 3rd gear to maintain speed(5 speed manual)
 

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Manual trans.
At sea level mostly 10 miles one way. The 20MPG.
Longest drive would be 60 miles at sea level and then 10 miles up to 3000ft. That would be the 23MPG
 

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"Power" really comes down to gearing. If you are geared for the tire size, then you'll have the power you need at the wheels. Towing is a whole different animal. The older 2.7L were only rated for 3500lbs and that is pretty true.

I've got a 2.7L on my truck with W59 manual trans, 4.88 gears and 33" tires and a curb weight around 4500lbs. I can't hold 5th on good uphill climbs. Have to drop to 4th to hold speed.
City driving I average 15 MPG. Highway is mostly 17 MPG but I can get a little higher if its all flat. That's with mud terrain tires at normal pressure. Street tires and higher pressure will get me about 1 more MPG.
 

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2001 DDSB Tacoma, 2002 4Runner with bumpers and lift, 2008 Rav4
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Hmmmm. My 2001 3.4 and Auto with 32” tires gets 20 mpg mixed driving. I am surprised it is as good as it is and it sounds like the smaller engines will not give much if any more. Towing almost anything reduces it to 17-18. BTW if I went back to the origional tires wouldn’t I get better just because the odometer would record more miles in the same distance for a tank full?
3.23% better by the numbers.Perhaps a mile per gallon better?
 

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My 2000 3.4 manual was on 32x11.5 with the MPG stated.
 

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My 3.4l manual, 4.10 gears and 33's has to drop into 4th up hills, and only averages around 16mpg in daily use. When it was new on stock 31's it barely eacked out 20mpg all highway. I would expect better mpg's from the 2.7l but also would think the lower HP would be noticeable.
 
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