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My 1uz 1ton'd 4runner

37K views 86 replies 15 participants last post by  inchworm-gear 
#1 ·
Here is my 1uz swap into my 4runner.

Frist,My turbo diesel build http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=148360 So you know where I am starting from.

I realized after being told by a few people that my 4runner with 1tons and 42's was going to be lacking power, well they were right.

I ripped out the old diesel and got to work on the new setup.

Specs:
93 sc400 1uz without traction control
2000 Tacoma R150f
Southbend 3SGTE stage 2 OFE clutch
1uzswapkit.com adapter for R154
Modified 3vz flywheel from 1uzfeswapkit.com
TG R150f gear t-case adapter
Stock duals with 23 spline stuff and longfield output
Remove the FJ60 steering box and replace with a IFS box
Long Range Off Road 2lt aluminum radiator
and the rest is the same

Engine is in, runs, ecu in the glove box, and mostly put back together.

Trip that my turbo died on




1UZ on the floor


Diesel out




1UZ in


Motor mounts
 
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#5 ·
Got a little quality time with the 4runner this weekend and got a SC400 instrument cluster hooked up. The wiring looks daunting, but it was actually pretty straight forward once I got the part of harness I wanted stripped from the rest.

I labeled all the wires for both of the clusters and used the attached document below to help keep track of what wires I had to spice into the 4runner harness. If anyone else uses this, double check the 4runner/pickup cluster wire numbers. The digital cluster I had was different than the sr5 which I believe is what the doc references. I used the ECT Power light for the 4wd and will find an old cluster to cut the 4wd emblem from. I also used the rear light failure warning for the back door unlocked light.

On the SC400 harness, about half of the cluster wires ended up being spliced into my 4runner. Most of the engine vitals are straight wires from the cluster to the engine and just had to be weeded through. Most of the wires that I cut ended up either being spliced into the 4runner or just not used. I think it was only two wires I had to solder together, but they were for the diagnostic port for the interior that I kept too.

I still have to mount the cluster, glue a piece of Lexan onto the dash to cover the cluster, and pull the rest of the dash so I can run the harness to the engine plugs on the passenger side.

http://youtu.be/rRMjtkoMn9k







 
#6 ·
I needed this info because the 85 manual doesn't have the digital cluster in it. I found this in the interweb and it was pretty accurate.

Turbo 4runner instrument cluster pinout

I don't know what year your cluster is, but here is the wiring info for my 86 4Runner with a Digital Cluster.
Looking at the back of your cluster the plugs are "A" Top Left, "B" far right top, "C" Center top and "D" Mid Left.
Pin #1 of each is far right for single row connectors or far right top for double rows connectors looking
at the back of the Cluster

A-1 Right Turn Signal Green/Yellow, A-2 High Beam Indicator Red/Green, A-3 A/T oil Temp Red/Yellow
A-4 Back Door Warning Green/Red, A-5 Charge light Yellow/White, A-6 Dash Illumination from Tail Fuse Green
A-7 Fr. 7.5 A Ign fuse Black/Yellow, A-8 Brake warning light Green/White, A-9 Check Engine Violet
A-10 Fr. 15 A Engine Fuse Yellow.

B-1 4 wd. indicator Lt Green, B-2 & 3 empty, B-4 Seat Belt Warning Green, B-5 Illumination Reostat Red/Black,
B-6 Warning, indication lights ground White/Black, B-7 empty, B-8 Left turn signal Green/Black.

C-1 Fr. 15 A Engine fuse Yellow, C-2 To engine ground White/Black, C-3 & 4 empty, C-5 Fuel Sender Term 1 Yellow/Red,
C-6 From Ign Switch Start Pos Black, C-7 Water Temp Sender Yellow/Green, C-8 Light Control Reostat, C-9 Igniter Black,
C-10 Fuel Sender Term 2 Green/Blue, C-11 Fuel Sender Term 3 Yellow/Green, C-12 Speed Sensor Green/Blue,
C-13 empty, C-14 Ect select Sw "Norm" Black/Yellow, C-15 Ect select Sw. "Pwr" Green/Orange, C-16 empty,
C-17 Light Control Reostat.

D-1 Oil pressure Sender Yellow/Black, D-2 empty, D-3 Turbo Pressure Sensor Yellow/White,
D-4 Turbo Pressure Sensor Yellow/Black, D-5 Turbo Pressure Sensor Brown/Black.

From the digital Cluster section of the FSM, it states that,
C-8 and C-17, both go to the Light control reostat, but I haven't found those connections on any
of the wiring diagrams.
It also states that C-14 is ECT Pwr and C-15 is Ect Norm, but actual wiring diagrams don't back this up, according to the diagrams
C-14 is Ect Norm and C-15 is Ect Pwr.*
 
#7 ·
Got a few hours with the 4runner this weekend and managed to finish my cluster install. I broke a part of the tach needle, so it is missing right now. The cluster is mounted with a thin sheet of aluminum and since there was no plastic protecting it, I glued a piece of lexan to the dash.







All the little black pieces used to be a disk


And since I had the dash apart, I pulled the inclinometer and changed the dial picture. :smokin:



I also installed the electric speed sensor from the SC400 trans. The tooth count is the same as the original one in my t-case but the pitch was slightly off. It still slid in fine and others have said it works good so, I guess I'll take their word on it.

To hold it in I found a longer bolt and a 3/4" long sleeve and just used the small plate that held the cable speedo gear in.
 
#13 ·
Got a few more things finished just before going wheeling. We stayed at my cousin's shop until 2:30 AM finishing stuff on our 4runners and then up at 6:30 to get ready for the day. :bounce2:

I do have to say that the Low Range Off-Road radiator and Mini Cooper fan set up work awesome. I was able to drive up the side of the mountain and the engine temp actually dropped as I was going up at about 2500 rpms and <10 mph. This was a concern of mine since this is the internet and I read a lot of different things about cooling these engines.

Also, this engine is Fucking Awesome!

Ok, so on with the mods
Got my $200 winch mounted with Masterpull 3/8" synthetic line.


I originally put the drag link on the outer hole of the steering arm. This caused the turning radius to be the size of a football field. Now I can turn just as sharp as a toy axle.


I had 96 4runner coils with some kinda sketchy holding devices. The 4runner coils were 170 lb-in coils an way too soft. After installing the cage, this thing rocked side to side constantly on the road. I found that FJCruiser 3" rear lift coils were about 220 lb-in. My guess that they would work well was good. They keep my 4runner stable, handle the weight well and flex just as good as the 4runner coils.


Minor flex shot


I also got tired of my front driveshaft making a shit load of noise while driving around, so I forked over some cash for a set of the Yukon locking hubs. I don't know what happened though, the drivers side hub started making noise and was a pain in the ass to unlock. I'll have to look at it after my trip coming up.



Front shot
 
#18 ·
Baddass. I think thats all I have to say :D
 
#19 ·
I got something in the mail today. :xsmokin1:



I know what I will be doing this weekend. :saw::welder:


I also beat up my 4runner a little a couple of weeks ago. Ended up smashing in the passenger side door and shattering the window. :xcrybaby: The first damage is always the worst. Luckily it still lined up and I pushed the door out enough to keep everything happy inside it.



The rear bumper bent up a slightly and it hit the rear quarter panel. Looks as if it may have tweeked it a little.



 
#22 ·
No!


Actually, I will have to before I can start welding or cutting stuff.
two questions-

1- How do you like the 1uzswapkit??? I have been looking at there stuff, and plan to pick a kit for my 2uz swap once I get the funds together.

2- How did you change the picture on your inclinometer?
1- The adapter is nice, but you have to make sure you are getting the correct one. He has a revised adapter that moves the throw out bearing 6mm closer to the flywheel. You will also have to get a 3/4" bore clutch master, mine is from a FJ60. The problem you can encounter is the TOB can over extend pushing the bearing off of the tube it rides on.

He told me that he had never heard of that problem and hoped I could figure it out. After I took some measurements after pulling the trans, he said he had one guy that had a similar problem and that he would send a spacer. I had to move my 4runner because the house sold. He told me he would send the spacer after the weekend (was a friday), but he didn't send it until the next week. I ended up making a spacer that was 1mm too long, so I still couldn't drive it. I had called him up again, this time he said he was sending me a new revised adapter and that he has been having complaints about the r150 adapter not working right. The set up works good now, but I probably wouldn't buy from him again based on his lying to me on a known issue.

Overall, the kit is nice and it's listed almost $200 less than when I bought mine.

I have heard the Ksport bellhousing is nice as well, but the clutch can be a B to find when you need a new one.

Here is a pic of the two adapters. Top is the old design and the bottom is the new.




2- I found the printable designs on Marlin Crawlers forum. They have a good write up on how to do it.
 
#21 ·
two questions-

1- How do you like the 1uzswapkit??? I have been looking at there stuff, and plan to pick a kit for my 2uz swap once I get the funds together.

2- How did you change the picture on your inclinometer?
 
#31 · (Edited)
Jesse was looking for a Hawaii TTORA VP a while back. I raised my hand as a joke.

Really, I hardly get to wheel. I have to work. I don't know enough tech.

I don't qualify for that position.

me_tu05 you have my vote for President:D
 
#36 ·
I FAIL!!!
I had to press some plugs into my ballistic arm and redrill it because I needed a hole 7.5" from the kingpin center and neither hole was in the right spot.



And then my cousin wouldn't let me leave without using his new powder coating setup. Well, I decided to try and make a dark red metallic with the red, gloss black, and chrome. I don't think this is the color I was going for. :lmao:



I also go to play with my stock power steering pump. I was a little suprised with the size of the rotor inside. It is larger than a TC and just barely smaller than a CB or P pump. I'll put more info on this later.
First thing I did was take out the nut on the pressure line and all this stuff came out with it.

So the hole in the cap (piece on the left) was pretty small, I bored that out to 9/32nds. What this does is allow more fluid to pass through. Next, I took the bypass piston (center) and took the nut off the top of it. There is a shim under the nut, this will increase the pressure of the pump. I also stretched the spring a little to add to the pressure.

The last thing I did was increase the opening into the pump to try and prevent cavitation. I think I went a little too far, but I will see.

This hole was like 6mm in diameter. I milled it out to 1/2", but I should have used a 3/8" mill and made an ellipse out of it instead. I also wanted to bore the other part of the intake, but I didn't have the right parts to do it at that time. I will probably be taking this one apart again if it works and try milling the other intake port as well. If all works good, I will find another pump and give it a full workup. Hoping this works, because I would rather not make a bracket for a different pump right now.
 
#37 ·
Been busy getting the full hydro finished before we went camping this past weekend. The steering is very interesting on the highway :eek:. I'm sure most people thought I was drunk and driving.

Start of mount


Finished


It's shifted one inch to the drivers side allowing full access to the front diff.


Camping at Peacock Flats


I didn't have time to put the big meats on, but it was fun getting sideways with the AT's. :D
 
#39 ·
I think I read a while back that you have to have a mechanical link to the steering and tie rod ends, but I don't care. If I get pulled over there is so much I could get a ticket for, I doubt they would even make it that far let alone know what they were looking at.

I'll have to get a finished pic of the whole hydro system. The knuckles are wagon red now and have a double shear bracket welded to them for the 3/4" bolt.
 
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