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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
First post, but I've been reading since I got my truck...
'96 Xcab 3.4L v6 Automatic

Story:
I was off-roading down some dry trails here in Ga for a while - I love going fast down these things - and I came to a big muddy puddle... Now thanks to a combination of not thinking/complacency (I had been rolling 30-40 most of the time down these trails for around an hour), peer pressure (Hate to admit it, but it's true), and inexperience (*definitely* will not be doing that again), I flew into the puddle which turned out to be a lot deeper than it looked. My engine sucked in a *lot* of water, killing the engine immediately. I was towed back home.

Before this ordeal, I knew next to nothing about engines, so in my naivity I:
-Repeatedly tried to start it underwater. That was probably bad. Click click.
-Replaced the starter (others reccomended this) which was probably fine, who knew parts stores tested them for free =P
-Replaced the starter relay (I broke this one after i pulled it out to check it and got mad)
-Replaced the battery which I think got screwed up by either the water or me placing metal tools on it and nudging them accidentaly... a lot.

That was day one, and to be fair, the truck started like crap before all this so that stuff couldn't hurt (I later got new spark plugs too).

After wisening up a bit (thankyou intarwebz) I pulled all my plugs and drained all the oil and water out of the engine. Part of that process involved getting a jump (that's with my old battery) and turning it over - It turned for like 1 second, spraying my unsuspecting buddy pretty well. It then stuck again.

Eventually I turned the engine manually, with new oil in it. I was able to back it up a bit (Not sure how bad that is for it..?) and go back forward a bit. I tried starting it again with the plugs back in and it was turning over good (At least one full rotation I think... =/), I was sure it would start then it stuck again. Stuck hard. Seized.

It hasn't budged since then. I put some Marvel Mystery Oil in it hoping that would do *something* about 28 hours ago but I don't think that it will help.
Now I'm at the point where I want to just take it to a shop.

Is there anything else I should try before taking it to a shop on monday/tuesday? How big a pita is it to go deeper into the engine to check out my pistons? How likely that I have a bent rod or jacked up my camshaft? Anybody near Ga got a spare engine they want to sell?

Any input is welcomed and greatly appreciated. I want to get this thing running again so I can worry about other things like getting that stank out of my interior =P At least I saved my amp from the water ;)
You live and you learn I guess.

PS I'll try to get the pics from when I was in the water, good for lulz.
 

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You've more than likely bent a rod or fucked it up even worse. Time for the oil pan to come off so someone can have a look see.
 

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After wisening up a bit (thankyou intarwebz) I pulled all my plugs and drained all the oil and water out of the engine. Part of that process involved getting a jump (that's with my old battery) and turning it over - It turned for like 1 second, spraying my unsuspecting buddy pretty well. It then stuck again.
If there was water in the cyliders, they you need to spin the motor for more that 1 sec with all of the plugs out. Make sure that all 6 of em are out. Then spin if for at least 10 - 20 sec.

I had to do this on a friends VW van once. It got stuck on a flooded street. It was spitting water for at least 10 sec.
 

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that sucks, might wanna post in the early taco folder though. Like they said though drop the pan and see what you find...good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ahh wrong forum sorry :eek:
Any chance of a mod moving it?

And to SP Jon M3 - I know it needs to turn over more, it stopped itself after a second - I really really wish it would have kept turning.
 

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Don't turn it over any more without dropping the oil pan and having a good look see first. If you have a bent and ready to break or busted already rod you're gonna window the friggin block if you keep fucking around with it. Then you'll be in for a new engine for dayum sure.
Look before you leap. I should think you would have learned that by now. LOL

Remember liquids don't compress so if you get a jug full of water something else has got to give. Usually it's a connecting rod and or a wrist pin. Then when it busts loose and flops around in there it breakes up other stuff. Scores the cylinder wall, the end of the rod pokes though the side of the block etc. I've seen day light though several 3.4L engines now and it ain't a purdy sight.
 

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And to SP Jon M3 - I know it needs to turn over more, it stopped itself after a second - I really really wish it would have kept turning.
Ahh.. sorry I didn't read your first post carefully. I thought you just spun it for a second and decided to stop cause just some of the water came out. If it stopped itself with all of the plugs out, then is sounds like you might have pretty serious problem. Just like the other posts say, drop the oil pan and check it from there.
 

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It's fucked........your gonna need a new engine without a doubt.........I did the same thing with a 22re........only I was smart enough to get it shut off quikly when the water level started to come up and i never tried to roll it over till i had the water out of it........which is what you should have done......mine still threw a rod even though it did run for 6 monthes after it happend.....if yours won't turn over than youbent atleast one rod and now that you have kept trying to force it to turn over you most likely fucked up the cylender walls.

I
 

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i hate to laugh dude but damn... dumb skin has to wear off before the smart skin can grow in. hard luck but there is nothing like expierence to learn, the only problem is that expierence is expensive. speed can be a very very bad thing in the wrong setting.
later
Zach
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i hate to laugh dude but damn... dumb skin has to wear off before the smart skin can grow in. hard luck but there is nothing like expierence to learn, the only problem is that expierence is expensive. speed can be a very very bad thing in the wrong setting.
later
Zach
Nah I laughed too, still gotta get those pics..
Anyways I'm not too bummed about it - it has been like a crash course in auto mechanics which I've wanted to know more about for a long time - this forced me to finally learn =)
I got some hookups through work and should have a new engine in soon - I'm looking at one from a 96 4runner atm, was about to check for compatability. I was under the impression they are practically the same.
 

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While you're learning all about automotive tech, be sure to pay particular attention to snorkles and their applications. I think you boys back there probably need em a lot more than we do out in this neck of the woods. LOL
 

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fill the block with kerosene, let it sit for about 6 to 8 hours, pull plugs, manually turn engine over repeatedly, drain out kerosene, and flush with lots of fresh oil. if it isnt too bad it may run again. i have done this to 3 of my friends cars and trucks. 2 are still running, and the other one, well that one was just fucked. good luck, try it, kerosene is cheap!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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that sucks for you were you on tank trails??
 

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I get worried when my truck stall and the tailpipe is in water....

1) pull the plugs, crank the engine to get the water out
2) dump some oil in every cylinder
3) try to turn the engine over BY HAND, if it spins and doesn`t feel clunky you lucked out. If you ALOT of resistance (I can turn my engine my hand with plugs in) you bend rods/valves.

Get a snorkel if you play in the water!
 

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i hate to laugh dude but damn... dumb skin has to wear off before the smart skin can grow in. hard luck but there is nothing like expierence to learn, the only problem is that expierence is expensive. speed can be a very very bad thing in the wrong setting.
later
Zach
or you could read about all the stupid shit people do and learn....so think of it this way, you helped out some other future fawk. You deserve a pat on the back. That sucks though, but like the guy above me said...get a snorkel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
that sucks for you were you on tank trails??
Nah the tank trails are too well maintained to have huge puddles, I was off in the woods somewhere. (like 30seconds away from my motor pool actually :p )
I'll probably end up with a snorkel as soon as I get her running again.
 

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Did that several years ago with a friends 300zx turbo. Pulled the plugs and spun it for a few secs to get the water out. Sprayed wd40 in the plug holes and reinstalled. Changed the oil and he drove it for another 100k.

With all due respect, I would never try to rebuild the engine in that thing. A quick look at carparts.com in Georgia show a LOT of 3.4s for $1000. Why rebuild when you can replace for less than $1500 total replacing the timing belt and seals prior to installation. If you wanted headers this is a great time to do it.

If it turns out to be too much, drop me a line and I will take the thing off your hands and do it myself.

Scott
 

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So, dumping oil into the cylinders acts as a liquid plunger, flushing the water out the top of the engine? The oil stops at the piston rings and doesnt go any farther?
 

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So, dumping oil into the cylinders acts as a liquid plunger, flushing the water out the top of the engine? The oil stops at the piston rings and doesnt go any farther?
No, the oil keeps it from rusting.
 
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