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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well, I don’t really understand why my original thread (http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66797)) was hi-jacked and then closed by a moderator, but there were still some tech questions that I was trying to sort out. . . .

First, I’m still debating about the idea of going with a full floater in the rear. Here are the pros and cons that I’ve collected. Please feel free to add any comments or corrections. . . .

Pros
- I can replace a broken axle shaft very easily (no lifting the truck, disconnecting the e-brake, disconnecting brake lines, bleeding them again, etc.) (Although with chrome-moly shafts that’s probably not an issue anyways because they probably won’t break.)
- If I break a ring and pinion, I can still drive in front wheel drive (since I can just remove the axle shafts and rear driveline so that the rear is free to roll)
- Disc brakes (although I don’t really know why those are an advantage)
- Less wheel wobble which wears out parts

Cons
- I can not use a spare stock axle (which again doesn’t really matter since the chrome-moly shafts probably won’t break)
- There are more parts that can break.
- It’s expensive!

So far I'm leaning toward not doing the conversion but I wanted to get more input before making my decision. . . .


Second, I would like to get rid of the stock e-brake line. I always thought that the e-brake bracket sticking out of the rear housing and the tension line running straight across is just asking for trouble. Last weekend I smashed the bracket upward which put tension in the line and therefore my e-brakes were probably engaged for most of the time without me realizing it. . . . Here's the bracket I'm talking about . . .





So I want to change that. I was initially thinking about going with the All Pro t-case e-brake but I haven’t heard very high reviews about it. Somebody suggested running line locks. The nice thing with line locks is that I can connect them to the front and rear brake lines so that I have all-wheel brakes. And that would be accomplished by just pushing down on the brakes and flipping two switches. . . . But the problem is that the vehicle has to be running for the brakes to remain enaged. So I wouldn't be able to get rid of that pesky e-brake in the back. . . .

Anyone have any other ideas for that?

Thanks!
 

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glad to see you posted back up... don't be worried about the tension on the e-brake line.. many others' are MUCHH tighter than yours... including me


now lets hope there are no satan thumpers in this thread :rolleyes:
 

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I'm still waiting for a picture!


...BTW... on my 4WD :)D)... the e-brake cable is run above the diff and the leafs...
 

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With Disks in the rear you should have better stoping power becuase you need to put a manual proportioning valve in, they are easier to service and don't get packed with mud and junk. I just picked up a spare FF shaft and it was only $150... its the same exact thing that comes in the FF kit. I don't know what you are going to do about an E-brake, you can get supra calipers that have an e-brake built in. From what I hear they don't hold as well as they should... and cost an arm and a leg. You can get calipers from other manufactuers that have a e-brake built in, but they will probably not work with the FROR FF adapter plates. I use a t-case ebrake (AP) and it works great if you adjust it right. Plus there is less on the axle housing to get snagged and no worries about an ebrake cable limiting travel.

Id say the break you had was a fluke, but I also dont trust SF axles on a rig that sees the trail... that's a whole new thing to talk about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm still waiting for a picture!
Which one? . . . You mean the one of my green 93' Corolla on the U-haul car carrier? :D

...BTW... on my 4WD :)D)... the e-brake cable is run above the diff and the leafs...
Is that because it's 4WD or is that something they implemented with the 05-07 models?

With Disks in the rear you should have better stoping power becuase you need to put a manual proportioning valve in, they are easier to service and don't get packed with mud and junk. I just picked up a spare FF shaft and it was only $150... its the same exact thing that comes in the FF kit. I don't know what you are going to do about an E-brake, you can get supra calipers that have an e-brake built in. From what I hear they don't hold as well as they should... and cost an arm and a leg. You can get calipers from other manufactuers that have a e-brake built in, but they will probably not work with the FROR FF adapter plates. I use a t-case ebrake (AP) and it works great if you adjust it right. Plus there is less on the axle housing to get snagged and no worries about an ebrake cable limiting travel.

Id say the break you had was a fluke, but I also dont trust SF axles on a rig that sees the trail... that's a whole new thing to talk about.
Thanks for all the info. . . . Ok, so what you're saying is that All Pro e-brake is pretty much gonna be my only reliable and affordable alterantive. Maybe I'll try it. . .

And concering the FF axle, you're saying that it's an important upgrade for a rig that sees the trail? Could you ellaborate some more. So far I just don't see enough advantage to justify it, especially since changing out rear axles isn't something to really worry about when you have chrome-moly ones. . . .
 

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Thanks for all the info. . . . Ok, so what you're saying is that All Pro e-brake is pretty much gonna be my only reliable and affordable alterantive. Maybe I'll try it. . .
There are two that make a T-case Parking break... you can use it an e-brake... but that little pad is going to get smoked and become useless if you are not careful! Sky Mfg. makes one and AP makes one, I believe they are pretty damn close to the same aside from different looks? I haven't held a Sky Mfg. parking break in my hands... sorry.
And concering the FF axle, you're saying that it's an important upgrade for a rig that sees the trail? Could you ellaborate some more. So far I just don't see enough advantage to justify it, especially since changing out rear axles isn't something to really worry about when you have chrome-moly ones. . . .
For ME... I want the extra security that my wheel will not fall off WHEN I break an axleshaft. The bearings can take more abuse (there are two wheel bearings on a FF setup), they are MUCH easier to service, and cheaper to do yourself I believe... I'm not positive on the price of wheel bearings for a SF axle vs. FF axle. I also wanted the ability to put locking hubs on the rear IF I needed to, say to Flat tow my rig, which I did for roughly 6 months. I finnaly broke hub gears at the hammers after 6+ months of abuse. Changing axle shafts out is always something to worry about, I don't care if you are running Longfields and chromo rear shafts. They WILL break eventually. You better be prepaired for it. Every axle has its breaking point. Having the spare parts is part of the game, unless I can't help it... I will have every spare part I need.
 

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Which one? . . . You mean the one of my green 93' Corolla on the U-haul car carrier? :D
You're playing with me... aren't ya?

Is that because it's 4WD or is that something they implemented with the 05-07 models?

ummm... mine's an '02. I'm thinking it's either a Pre-Runner thing, or an '03-04 Thing or even possibly BOTH :eek:.
 
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