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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
N8's DD/truggy build (Updated 12/6/05)

Well here is my build up thread, no it's not even close to being done but at least it's getting there. It's a little hard to get a whole lot done when the only time I get is when I come home from school on the weekends. Anyway here is the spluge. I wasn't going to do my swap until sometime next spring/summer but when my rack and pinion decide to spit it's guts out all over the place I wasn't about to waste the time or money to fix it so I said screw it and started removing the IFS. Sorry no pictures from the IFS removal, to messy to full with a nice camera and I figured there are enough pictures out there.

frame cleaned

And yes this part blows hard core. You can see where the motor mount is cut and I plan on adding a plate something shaped like an upside down "T" to strengthen it back up.

Next, I started trying to figure out what to do about my links and stuff. What I came up with was ditching my stock cross-member and using a FROR crossmember so that I could build a low profile cross-member/attachment point for my upper link. I figured while I was doing the swap I could build a belly pan at the same time. So the idea I had was to build the new cross member like an "I" underneath the truck and it should be flat except where the T case is but I'll try and come up with some cool triangular stuff coming down to protect it. I figured it would be better than that stock t case skid... :finga: Hopefully one day when I can afford dual's and I can clock it totally flat. I plan on making the belly pan run from links to links, and it will be made into two panels so I can lift easier. The "I" beam framing for the belly pan will be made into two pieces the front "T" section will be bolted in and removable, while the rear _ of the "I" will be welded in, this piece was a retarded tight fit under the drive shaft.
SPECS:
framing 1"x3"X.120 wall and the skid will be 3/16" This will get made later on...
PRETTY TIGHT :supz: (about 1/8" maybe 1/4") I will have the pan come out underneath the frame and have some type of rounded carrage bolts to hold pan in place, I wish It was thick enough to counter sink the bolts, oh well.

The oil pan was not to difficult, but I will say that I didn't see a whole lot of info on the best way to do this part when I was looking on the internet. So here is a little trick I learned and it worked great and hopefully will help out those who are going SAS in the future... yes you all will go this route one day don't try and deny it :finga: Taking out the old pan and putting in the new one easy, just take the little plate off the front of the bell housing and take out all of the old bolts and have fun prying off the old pan. Next get out the plug where the new union will go. Here is about the best I can do to show you where this is, mine was covered in God knows what so I had to look for a few minutes.
THIS IS WHAT YOU HAVE TO TAKE OUT you can see where I tried to get it with every kind of pliers and vise grips known to man, but it didn't help.
TRICK You will need a 1"x.25"x4" bolt, washer and nut. Use the bolt to hammer out the old thing from the bottom, don't smash your new oil stuff, or just leave off till after this step. Then use the bolt, washer,nut and a wrench to get the new union pressed in. I saw a bunch off people take loose the moter mount to try and press in the new one. This is a lot easier and very fast.
Some idiot giving me a hand.
Here is a good picture of where the new dip stick tube goes, very easy to get in there.

My new brother-in-law, Andrew, came over and I let him go to town on my front fenders. I told him what I was wanting, at least a general description, and let him get on it. I am planning on moving the battery to the back and building some kind of snorkel so the inner fenders are going to be cut out as well but I have been waiting on some sheet metal, time, and after the links are built and installed to see exactly how much to cut out.

I hope to run a tube right along this new body line to help protect these oh so expensive/high quality fenders :supz: I quess we'll see how that turns out. I still need to get some of the door trim crap to cover the cut edge of these fenders. Those inner fenders are not going to be fun. :butthead:

I was wanting to make my PS resevoir larger as well, ram assist, so I went over what I needed with Andrew and he came up with this. Works for me, and will hold plenty of fluid. I was affraid my MIG would blow this little thing to pieces and he has access to TIG.


This is the part of the story where I got myself in WAY over my head :boom: I have been waiting on some tabs, plating and other misc. items I am having made at a friends machine shop. I decided that I didn't have enough stuff to deal with right know so I went out in the garage and took the bed off and promptly chopped the frame off about 14" behind the cab. :axe: Yep, Shit has definitly hit the fan now.
I figured I might as well build the tube bed and exo at the same time. What the hell.
Capping the frame

I tried to sketch up some ideas for the cage, but my mind is just compacted full of all of these ideas so I figured I'd just start going with it and this is how the rear is starting to take form. Hopefully I can get a lot of the rear bed/cage done by the time I get the tabs and stuff to work on my swap.

The floor will be about the height of the top tube and the gas tank and batteries will hopefully be mounted to the frame right under the flooring and then enclosed to to hide them. Then the tool box will be mounted in the back along with enough room for a cooler right at the end of the bed. I plan on running another tube about 10-12" above the floor and skinning it to hold stuff in.
Specs:
48" from rear of cab
33" wide at the rear
1.50"X.120" DOM tubing
A lot more tubing to come...
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Here are a few specs of stuff going under the front:
1. 78' F-250 HP D44
-CTM's
-4.88's
-lockrite
-Partsmikeparts high steer
-GreatLakes Offroad Diff armor (HEAVY DUTY)
2. Rusty's 8" XJ coils
3. PSC rebuilt Scout II box and PSC ram assist (DAMN NICE JOB, worth every penny)
4. Home built steering shaft... pics later
5. home made Three link, 3/4"X5/8" heim joints, all links and panhard bar
6. Chevy tie rod ends and 1.25"x.250" DOM sleeved w/ 1.5"x.120" DOM tie rod and drag link
7. Not sure which shocks yet...
8. 17x9 Cragar Soft 8's with 36x13.50x17 IROK's
9. Lots more just not there yet...
10. Time, yeah, lots and lots of time.


FYI spending to much time on trucks makes school grades, work, family time, relationships, and other stuff (mainly the wallet) suffer. Maybe I should have spread all this stuff out. :finga:
 

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Wheeler Wannabe
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That's looking real good. This is going to be a sweet truggy. Plus we don't have many of them around here, so you'll stand out. Cutting through the frame probably felt good :D :saw:

By the way, what are you going to school for? I'm too poor to do anything more to my truck right now because of school. :mad:
 

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fawking shit i love people who just look at something and on an impulse say "that needs to go" and start cutting, kinda reminds me of my self :D looks good. the rear of my frame will get chopped this week sometime if i ever get time to head to the shop, all this working shit ive been doing lately isnt cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Toyo4x4 said:
That's looking real good. This is going to be a sweet truggy. Plus we don't have many of them around here, so you'll stand out. Cutting through the frame probably felt good :D :saw:

By the way, what are you going to school for? I'm too poor to do anything more to my truck right now because of school. :mad:
I'm transfering to Georgia Tech in the spring for Mechanical engineering.
 

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Looks good, guess your weekends are kinda shot for a bit. Glad to see you are putting what you learn in school to good work. Keep us updated.
 

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Alumnus maximus
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WOW N8, looks great! very informative info and those welds are looking SWEET!

id like to head down to help or just check shit out one weekend, maybe during winter break or something... keep up the killer work. we will talk again soon, tell the girly i said hey!
 

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i don't mean to jack N8s thread but John, why arn't you going to Tellico with us this weekend?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well I didn't get a hole lot done last week because all day sat. I rode with a buddy at tellico and then was busy as nuts on sunday.

Here are a few pics of the progress I did get done.

I stayed up late beding the main hoop for my cage. I used a trick my friend Duby from the TN chapter showed me and drew it out on the ground with a straight edge, measuring tape, and my little sisters chalk.
Seemed to work pretty good. I put a level on it after I welded it to the rock sliders and it was almost perfect. When I get the X-brace in there and run the top bar for the bed around I can get it perfect. I welded some 3/8's plate to the top of the frame where I can run the X-brace down.

I also got my tires mounted. I'm pretty happy with them :D
I'll try and get some more stuff done this weekend.
N8
 

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Big tars, little bed.
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Toyotakrawler said:
7. Not sure which shocks yet...
:finga:
Air shocks? :D :D
 

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Duby and I talked about this last weekend. You're guinea pig #1, then he's going to learn from you and take a shot at his. Mine is slotted for mid August :D

Keep it up, brotha!
 

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tenntaco said:
Duby and I talked about this last weekend. You're guinea pig #1, then he's going to learn from you and take a shot at his. Mine is slotted for mid August :D

Keep it up, brotha!
Hmmmmmmmmmm.................so everyones watching
 

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Discussion Starter #20
tenntaco said:
Duby and I talked about this last weekend. You're guinea pig #1, then he's going to learn from you and take a shot at his. Mine is slotted for mid August :D

Keep it up, brotha!
Man I feel like I got all of this pressure on me now to not screw up. :eek: Oh well, I like being the quinea pig, it's the "Tits."

I'll try and keep as detailed of a build as possible and keep up with plenty of pictures.
N8
 
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