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I have a Cornfed 3" spacer lift in the front and Cornfed 2" shackles in the rear in addition to a custom 6-leaf setup. Anybody know how I can get about 1 more inch in the front so my 33s will stop rubbing? I've beat the pinch weld to death and trimmed as much plastic as possible but I still get rubbing. I don't want to do a body lift because the back sits high and I'd like to even out the front.
 

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00Andy said:
I have a Cornfed 3" spacer lift in the front and Cornfed 2" shackles in the rear in addition to a custom 6-leaf setup. Anybody know how I can get about 1 more inch in the front so my 33s will stop rubbing? I've beat the pinch weld to death and trimmed as much plastic as possible but I still get rubbing. I don't want to do a body lift because the back sits high and I'd like to even out the front.
You can't get anymore lift without dropping the diff. ProComp 4", Tuff Country 5", and FabTech 6" kits all provide a means to lower the front diff. You could do a SAS or take the sawzall and torch to the sheet metal.......Otherwise, you are done.:(
 

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Other than the 1" Body lift the only other option is to change to a completely different front lift such as procomp 4" or fagtech 6" which is of course quite expensive compared to the cornfed.
 

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00Andy said:
I have a Cornfed 3" spacer lift in the front and Cornfed 2" shackles in the rear in addition to a custom 6-leaf setup. Anybody know how I can get about 1 more inch in the front so my 33s will stop rubbing? I've beat the pinch weld to death and trimmed as much plastic as possible but I still get rubbing. I don't want to do a body lift because the back sits high and I'd like to even out the front.

Okay, some are going to call BS on me, and say it is not possible, BUT here is MY personal experience, take it for what its worth.
I have a 3 in CF and the Old Man Emu 881's. I was told I was not getting 4 - 4.5 inches of lift out of them even though it seems I would, I was told that my shocks keep that from happening. Mine BTW are KYB. Now I recently got the All Pro rear leafs which lift 3 inches and I was told to go to stock shackles so I'd sit correctly as I like the stock stance of the rear a bit higher. So I did. It was lower in the rear. I put back on my 1.5 lift Downey and the truck sits about level, not the stock preferred stance. That would seems to indicate to me that I am getting 4 - 4.5 in of lift in the front. So as said before take it for what its' worth, I can only tell you what I've experienced.
 

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Captkirkyota said:
Okay, some are going to call BS on me, and say it is not possible, BUT here is MY personal experience, take it for what its worth.
I have a 3 in CF and the Old Man Emu 881's. I was told I was not getting 4 - 4.5 inches of lift out of them even though it seems I would, I was told that my shocks keep that from happening. Mine BTW are KYB. Now I recently got the All Pro rear leafs which lift 3 inches and I was told to go to stock shackles so I'd sit correctly as I like the stock stance of the rear a bit higher. So I did. It was lower in the rear. I put back on my 1.5 lift Downey and the truck sits about level, not the stock preferred stance. That would seems to indicate to me that I am getting 4 - 4.5 in of lift in the front. So as said before take it for what its' worth, I can only tell you what I've experienced.
I wouldn't say it is impossible. I for one would neither enjoy replacing cv boots and ball joints that frequently nor trust the tripod/tulip junction at that angle. You will break, waaaaaaaaaay too soon. :xcrybaby:
 

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00Andy said:
I have a Cornfed 3" spacer lift in the front and Cornfed 2" shackles in the rear in addition to a custom 6-leaf setup. Anybody know how I can get about 1 more inch in the front so my 33s will stop rubbing? I've beat the pinch weld to death and trimmed as much plastic as possible but I still get rubbing. I don't want to do a body lift because the back sits high and I'd like to even out the front.
Dude, just go straight for the 1" BL. I have one now, and never looked back. Installation was a piece of cake, and all in all, not that time consuming! I believe peter parks has the best write up on his site about the RB 1" BL.
 

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Nanotruck said:
I wouldn't say it is impossible. I for one would neither enjoy replacing cv boots and ball joints that frequently nor trust the tripod/tulip junction at that angle. You will break, waaaaaaaaaay too soon. :xcrybaby:
2 years like this with zero issues. Rubicon and Moab and Az. crazy trails approved. My Cv's are not angled that bad at all. I do have a .75 diff drop, but it BARELY makes a difference. Again, this has been my experience. :)
 

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Nanotruck said:
I wouldn't say it is impossible. I for one would neither enjoy replacing cv boots and ball joints that frequently nor trust the tripod/tulip junction at that angle. You will break, waaaaaaaaaay too soon. :xcrybaby:
i too stand by kirk on this one, after seeing him go up potato salad hill in moab and whatnot. but different trucks act different to the same mod.
 

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Captkirkyota said:
2 years like this with zero issues. Rubicon and Moab and Az. crazy trails approved. My Cv's are not angled that bad at all. I do have a .75 diff drop, but it BARELY makes a difference. Again, this has been my experience. :)
Not that it would make a HUGE difference, but you also have the weight of the d-cab, but then the rear lift proves the amount you have in the front. Do you have any pics of your cv angles?
 

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4TACXOMA4 said:
Not that it would make a HUGE difference, but you also have the weight of the d-cab, but then the rear lift proves the amount you have in the front. Do you have any pics of your cv angles?
Sorry no pics.
 

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Captkirkyota said:
Sorry no pics.
OT, glad to see that you didn't give up on the new format Kirk; I have been struggling my way along as well, and am starting to actually get used to it.
 

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I have a similar setup with 33s and the rubbing is frustrating me and I am ready to get a BL. The problem is I have Demello's round sliders. Does anyone think it will look funny if I put a 1" body lift with the sliders in the original location? or can sliders be cut and re-welded?
 

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atwinda said:
Dude, just go straight for the 1" BL. I have one now, and never looked back. Installation was a piece of cake, and all in all, not that time consuming! I believe peter parks has the best write up on his site about the RB 1" BL.
Who is RB (sorry, i'm still quite the newb)? I want a 1" BL but am having a hard time finding one. Only coming across 2" and 3".
 

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00Andy said:
I have a Cornfed 3" spacer lift in the front and Cornfed 2" shackles in the rear in addition to a custom 6-leaf setup. Anybody know how I can get about 1 more inch in the front so my 33s will stop rubbing? I've beat the pinch weld to death and trimmed as much plastic as possible but I still get rubbing. I don't want to do a body lift because the back sits high and I'd like to even out the front.
Have you done a wheel alignment?

corect alignment for max castor has the added bonus of moving the wheel forward via the lower A-arm cams and giving you more firewall clearance!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

nobody seems to remember this but it is a win/win situation.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
DylanDr said:
Have you done a wheel alignment?

corect alignment for max castor has the added bonus of moving the wheel forward via the lower A-arm cams and giving you more firewall clearance!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

nobody seems to remember this but it is a win/win situation.
Speak english to non-suspension gurus ;) Sounds good but how do you do it?
 

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seth_js said:
Who is RB (sorry, i'm still quite the newb)? I want a 1" BL but am having a hard time finding one. Only coming across 2" and 3".
RB = Roger Brown
He makes high quality custom lift kits for several vehichles but primarily the tacoma thanks to this board. You can order a 1" 2" or 3" He will build your kit to order at a very resonalbe price. Here's his site:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/ProductLine.shtml
 
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