Awhile back my truck was not starting up properly. After a few turns of the key it would start up, eventually it began blowing the STA fuse. Replacing the fuse worked, went through a bunch! Then once the truck started up and got hot, turning it off and then getting back in blew every fuse afterwards. I got fed up and began jumping the starter until I figured out the issue. Checked wires for any damage that can cause a short. I narrowed it down to the NSS, didn't know you could open these until I just took it off. I thought it went bad, but didn't want to spend the money on a new one. Figured I could wire around it to a push button.
Instead I took it off to see whats up. The switch is located on the passenger side if the transmission, held in with a 12mm bolt and a 22mm nut. The switch tells the computer what gear the tranny is in.
Front view:
Back view, which shows the 5 screws:
remove screws (duh):
Carefully pull apart, can you spot the problem?
The contact came out some how!
Wiped off, you can see the contacts back in it's home.
Under the contacts are springs, make sure the spring is not compressed because the old grease can hold them down. Work the contacts up and down by pushing on them for insurance. I cleaned the rest of the old grease out, and used white lithium grease. You don't need much, I filled the holes that had grease in them the same way and did a quick pass over contact surface. Once that's done put all back together and test it! So far it has worked perfectly! Truck starts right up, let it run, shut off and do it again...fuse has yet to pop.
On the transmission; passenger side, near the bell housing. I know that different years have a different part number due to the electronic plug style. Other then that the part is interchangeable. I swapped my 2001 2wd onto a 99 4wd and works fine.
I've had to do this on my XJ... Is there room to move the switch in such a way that you have to worry about getting it lined up properly when you put it back on? On the XJ i had to check continuity on different terminals depending on which gear the transmission was in to make sure it was lined up right.
If you look at the first pic you can see that it is "keyed". When you do this you want the truck in Neutral which will be a vertical position and the NSS only has one vertical position to match it. Simple as that. Even if you have it in Park and the switch can only match one way to the shifter rod.
If you look at the first pic you can see that it is "keyed". When you do this you want the truck in Neutral which will be a vertical position and the NSS only has one vertical position to match it. Simple as that. Even if you have it in Park and the switch can only match one way to the shifter rod.
They can be a pain to adjust at times, especially when it starts to get cold outside if you take it off. It took me a week or so to finally adjust mine so it would start everytime after I swapped my trans.
Did you have any issues getting the NSS in the right adjustment? I replaced my NSS on my 2007 Tacoma and I dont think its adjusted correctly...because it ran well for 3 weeks and now is doing the same thing.
So a couple of years ago I got tired of the maintenance on my early generation SAW coilvers and decided I'd throw on some OME's with Bilstein 5100's. I swapped things out and the upper spindle mount contacts the coils during droop even on parking lot speed bumps. As such I can barely even mall...
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Just for...
uuhhhggg, so i long story short I failed smog for acouple reasons. first was the standard cali exstortion laws which required me to get a numbered rear cat @ 450$ installed. now Im fighting the catalyst monitor. i have no CEL but my matco tools MD60 is reading a P0420 below threshold bank 1.
so...
I own a 2001 TacomaTRD with the 3.6L motor. Recently It has been experiencing some weird drivability issues. First off I have a P1135 code and I replaced my upstream O2 sensor, which didn't fix my light. And recently after that I had issues where my temperature gauge would rise time to time, got...
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