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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I recently picked up a used 5vz from Foreign Engines Inc. in Lynnwood, Wa. I cracked the block last winter when my tacoma was sitting with no antifreeze after I replaced the radiator. I thought that was the end of the taco. But now with the jew Jap spec engine it looks like the taco is gonna be better than ever. They say the Jap import engines have less than 50k miles! And from the looks of it I would say thats about right.

This is the Japanese 5vz as it came delivered to my house free of charge.



I got it torn down and put new timing gear on it, water pump, bearings, belt, thermostat and im gonna paint the valve covers.



This is the disaster under the hood of my taco right now.

 

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Discussion Starter #2
I picked up a used STS turbo kit from a member on this forum and its been sitting in the garage for about a year now just begging to be installed.





Im going to run the URD Port Fueler to fuel the turbo kit, along with an Aquamist 2D methanol injection kit.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Im going to throw on the Downey Ceramic Headers and run those with no Cat and no muffler straight to the turbo, with the help of the URD rear 02 sim.



I just got my oreder from LC Engineering.

Dual Friction Clutch



Slotted Drilled Rotors



Header Studs



Magnecor Race Wires

 

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Discussion Starter #4
I also got the Flex-a-Lite Electric Fans and went all out with the shrink wrap and wiring.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
The question now is what do I use to control fuel, timing, etc.? Im looking at the MAP-ECU3 from URD, Gadget tells me that it can control my MAF, 02 Sensor, Timing, the Port Fueler, and I believe he said it will run Water/Meth also if I wanted to go with a cheaper kit than Aquamist 2D. I have to have Meth Injection that varies its flow based on not just boost and the size of the jet, but most importantly will tap into the fuel injector pusle width and keep the water/meth injection at a constant 15% ratio (water/meth=fuel), that is the ideal ratio from what I understand. I wouldnt own a meth kit that doesnt flow based off fuel injection pulse. Otherwise you will be spraying more than 15% much of the time which from firsthand experience will take away a significant amount of power.

Other than the MAP-ECU3 the only other option that I know of would be to get the Fuel Timing Calibrator(FTC) and run that with the Six Additional Injector Control(6AIC), and go with the Aquamist 2D to control Water/Meth Injection. That would more expensive, but I have experience tuning and installing the FTC. The MAPECU3 seems a little more complicated but it has so many possible setups that it looks like the way to go? Any thought?
 

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For about $200 you can get a progressive controller from Devils-own for the water/meth setup, and its stand alone. Just wire it to the pump and give it a vac/boost source.

Your sig says you have the URD fuel kit, do you already have the 7th injector kit from when you were super charged?
 

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Nice build, if you need any help with the install let me know I'm in the Mill Creek area.

RJM
 

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Discussion Starter #11

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Discussion Starter #12
For about $200 you can get a progressive controller from Devils-own for the water/meth setup, and its stand alone. Just wire it to the pump and give it a vac/boost source.

Your sig says you have the URD fuel kit, do you already have the 7th injector kit from when you were super charged?
I have checked out the Devils Own setup but I really want to get something that can base the wat/meth injection flow rate of the fuel injectors flow rate, to stay at that important 15% ration of wat/meth to fuel.

I did have the URD fuel kit but I took it all off and sold everything to pay for the STS kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Okay, I got the valve covers painted and sealed back up, and I got the timing gear on, what do you guys think, black looks good for now im thinking.



I pulled the blown 5vz, so far so good.



I got this 160 amp high output alternator from mean-green. It looks good but did take 5 weeks to get here!

 

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Looking good, have you dropped in the new 5vz yet?

RJM
 

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where did you get the jap motor with less than 50k? I am looking for one. Also, is the wiring and ecu different?? what is diff from the jap and the us one?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I got the engine from Foreign Engines Inc. in Lynnwood Wa. it was 2100$. As far as the wiring goes its not an issue because im dropping the block and heads in, as far as all the accessories you just use the stuff that was already on the old 5vz, it will bolt right up as all the blocks and heads are the same. It didnt even come with an ecu or anything just a wiring harness that you can pick and choose which wires you want to solder in place of the old ones on the existing harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Clutch/Flywheel/Oil Pan

I got the new flywheel installed with new Factory Bolts and locktite and the clutch disc hung on it.



Then I bolted the pressure plate on, all torqued to spec:



I almost had the engine bolted to the mounts when I realized that something wasnt right. The hump on the oil pan was hitting the axle. Turns out this engine must have been from a 2wd because the oil pan needs to be positioned so the hump is facing the front of the engine and mine is on the rear which makes it impossible to mount the engine. Luckily my buddy still has my old engine that I removed already, so I went and got my old oil pan and pickup tube. I went to work with the gasket remover and dremel tool and cleaned it up inside and out so it was spotless, i even cleaned the bolt holes to perfection. Then i decided to hit it with some ceramic coating which I think turned out pretty nice!



Hopefully there wont be any problems with it mounting to the new block. I should be ready to mount up!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
If you look at the 2 pictures above, the 2 above the meen grean pic. you can see the new engine with black valve covers has the oil pan hump towards the rear, the old engine which is on the hoist in the pic, you can see the hump towards the front. I cant believe I didnt notice that to begin with?? oh well
 
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