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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi, im new to the world of off roading but after my cousin took me in his jeep i was hooked. I have a 2000 tacoma w/ 5 spd ,4wd ,2.7 L motor. i live in NC and i want to have easy to moderate off roading capabilities. I've been looking at different options for lifting my truck and new tires and wheels. First off, i know i'm getting 33'' tires but i haven't decided how thick yet. i know i will prob have to regear , and i was wondering about how much that would cost. i was looking at a Fabtech 3.5'' performance lift w/ front coilovers. i was thinking that if i got a 3'' body lift along with the suspension lift so i wouldn't have any tire rub problems. Any comments or advice would be gratly appreciated. thanks
 

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I've got a 98 tacoma 2.7l 4x4 reg. cab that i've got lifted w/fabtech and rolling 33x12.5's geared to 4.88. I am totally pleased with the lift kit first of all. It's quality is great and has never let me down on the trail. The tire and gear combo listes is perfect to maintain daily drivability and performs excellent on trails as well. The truck will go up anything it can grip. Dont really know what else to say other than good luck and be careful because this stuff gets addicting.
 

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daveman1230 said:
hi, im new to the world of off roading but after my cousin took me in his jeep i was hooked. I have a 2000 tacoma w/ 5 spd ,4wd ,2.7 L motor. i live in NC and i want to have easy to moderate off roading capabilities. I've been looking at different options for lifting my truck and new tires and wheels. First off, i know i'm getting 33'' tires but i haven't decided how thick yet. i know i will prob have to regear , and i was wondering about how much that would cost. i was looking at a Fabtech 3.5'' performance lift w/ front coilovers. i was thinking that if i got a 3'' body lift along with the suspension lift so i wouldn't have any tire rub problems. Any comments or advice would be gratly appreciated. thanks
where in NC???
regear about 1000 with parts and labor...maybe more...

IMO i think those Fabtech are overpriced....but i can't deny the fact they will ride better with the coilovers...hehe

with about 6.5 total lift..you should have zero issues with rubbing...maybe in full flex...but very little...

i think you should think about getting lockers....i finally used my e-locker that came with my TRD package with i was climbing some hills...and if i didn't have that i dont' think i would of climbed it...and that was just in the rear...i can't imagine having lockers in the front and in the rear... :eek:

but also what are you planing to do with ur truck...that is the big question...
i would love to set my truck to be a desert runner...but since i live in NC and there is no desert... i never thought about getting just a bolt on coilover...but i will still get one....for the ride when off-roading... my 3" spacers handled great but it can't beat a coilover....

good luck

i would have to say with that setup...your ride would be better than ur cousin's jeep...unless he has spent over $5,000 for like lockers,lift,tires. etc.
and he's a better driver... hehe
 

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daveman1230 said:
hi, im new to the world of off roading but after my cousin took me in his jeep i was hooked. I have a 2000 tacoma w/ 5 spd ,4wd ,2.7 L motor. i live in NC and i want to have easy to moderate off roading capabilities. I've been looking at different options for lifting my truck and new tires and wheels. First off, i know i'm getting 33'' tires but i haven't decided how thick yet. i know i will prob have to regear , and i was wondering about how much that would cost. i was looking at a Fabtech 3.5'' performance lift w/ front coilovers. i was thinking that if i got a 3'' body lift along with the suspension lift so i wouldn't have any tire rub problems. Any comments or advice would be gratly appreciated. thanks
if you go with 33s and that much lift, i see very little problems. I have 3" of lift with 285/75/r16s and do moderate offroading and have not rubbed. Pinch weld and remove the flaps and you should be fine...as for regering, i would recomend it. I want to, but the wallet is empty :mad: Welcome!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i live in charlotte too. do you really think the regearing will cost $1000, im only a couple hundred away from what the lift and tires would cost, when i saw that my stomach dropped. if i go with 33x12.5's, is regearing required, and i was also looking at other options on that customtacos website and was wondering how big a difference getting seperate parts, like the donahoe coilovers (which are the cost of the whole fabtech kit) and a leaf kit for the back, would make. i was looking to have a truck that can do moderate offroading for around $3000 but if it is worth it to get lockers and the better parts and regearing for another $2000 then i can wait.
 

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To note; if you stick to 33x10.5 , you can keep the stock rims for a while. That saves money. You can also still fit them in the fenders, which should save some money. You should be able to skip the body lift. That will save you more money, plus...no body lift! I run 265/75/16. Tire is 32-1/2 high. If you get stuck with a 10.5, you'll get just as stuck with a 12.5. Also, I did not have to regear my truck with these tires. HA! Another way to save money. I am running a coilover front, with 2-5/8 lift, and a deaver pack in rear, for 1-1/2 lift. If getting the fabtech, other drivers have suggested the performance package coilover. They are rebuildable, unlike the standard coilover from fabtech. Others that are not too expensive are Sway away, and downey. I got the downey's, thinking they would be just a hold me over.... turns out, they are pretty good, and tons better than stock. Pinch weld mod, and no rub..
 

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daveman1230 said:
i live in charlotte too. do you really think the regearing will cost $1000, im only a couple hundred away from what the lift and tires would cost, when i saw that my stomach dropped. if i go with 33x12.5's, is regearing required, and i was also looking at other options on that customtacos website and was wondering how big a difference getting seperate parts, like the donahoe coilovers (which are the cost of the whole fabtech kit) and a leaf kit for the back, would make. i was looking to have a truck that can do moderate offroading for around $3000 but if it is worth it to get lockers and the better parts and regearing for another $2000 then i can wait.
cool what part of charlotte...i live in the south side...

anyways...it would prob cost about 1000 for regearing... about like 400 for parts or so and like 600 for labor or what not..i have no clue where u can get these done...mabye in carolina rockshop...and regearing is required i would say if you are planing to get 33x12.5 with a 2.7L... regear to mabye 4:88..oh it's about $1000 since it's a 4x4..they would need to rear gear both...

i know i have to regear my v6 5spd if i get 33x12.5...it wouldn't be bad as the 2.7L but it would still be slow....so i'm gonna get some 32x11.5

dang i wish i can have 3g to play around with...IMO if i had 3g to do whatever i want to do...i would get donahoe extended coilovers...camburg a-arm...custom 2" alcan leaf pack and 32x11.5x15 mud tires maybe BFG or something...and some wheels with 3.75 Bs...but i wouldn't have to regear and that's about 3g...but regear is a must for a 2.7L engins..

hope this will help...
oh...like in May or something like that...i know 2 guys who are planing to go to uwharrie...so if you wanna join...you are more than welcome to join...
i wanna gather a lot of tacos that day!! but i will keep you up to date when the day come by..

good luck

oh yeah...about the lockers...they will save you a lot of trouble trying to get out of places...that's a must IMO..at least one for the rear...i know for a fact i wouldn't have been able to climb some of the hills i was climbing without those lockers...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
yea i live in south charlotte too i actually go to Myers Park High School. i have always wanted to go to uwharrie, once i get everything installed i'd love to go, my e-mail is [email protected], btw i went to get an estimate on regearing and it was $1350 to run a 4.88, if anyone knows where to get it done cheaper in charlotte nc please post thanks
 

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dude i go to Myers Park! this is crazy....i'm only a junior and drive a burgandy tacoma..i park near the boiler lot...like really close..and there is like a sliver tacoma near mine..is that you? lol...about the gear...they will run a lot...so i can't help you with that...where did you go? try carolina rockshop... i'm about to go to uwharrie with only 3" suspension lift... and stock wheels lol....but this is awesome man...

oh My name is Thomas...later
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
wait you don't have Mr. Clark for AP computer science, cause if you do i think im in your class, yea i went to 4wheelparts but ill prob go by rockshop tomorrow. and the silver taco isn't mine i have a 2000 white single cab, guess i'll talk to you in class, that's crazy
 

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daveman1230 said:
hi, im new to the world of off roading but after my cousin took me in his jeep i was hooked. I have a 2000 tacoma w/ 5 spd ,4wd ,2.7 L motor. i live in NC and i want to have easy to moderate off roading capabilities. I've been looking at different options for lifting my truck and new tires and wheels. First off, i know i'm getting 33'' tires but i haven't decided how thick yet. i know i will prob have to regear , and i was wondering about how much that would cost. i was looking at a Fabtech 3.5'' performance lift w/ front coilovers. i was thinking that if i got a 3'' body lift along with the suspension lift so i wouldn't have any tire rub problems. Any comments or advice would be gratly appreciated. thanks

I am asuming you have ADD. With 3 1/2 inches of lift from that fabtech set up you will ruin your inner CV boots in no time. I would suggest running it at 2.5-3", though you will still most likely wear through your CV boots, it won't happen quite as fast. Just something to think about...

If you do a search on CV boots you should be able to pull up a few threads on the CV boot problem the ADD trucks have. My 04 is at 2.5" and I am wearing through my driver side boot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
how do you know i have ADD and what does it mean, at the store the guy siad i wouldnt be able to use the entire 3.5'' anyways but i have never heard of the CV boot problem, most of the threads i have read don't mention anything about the cv boots wearing down but i guess i will look into it some more, if not the fabtech kit what other shocks and springs would you recomend its not like i have already bought the parts i'm still looking
thanks for bringing this up though
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
if this is something to do with manual locking hubs then i do have them but i really don't know what your talking about with the cv boots or ADD
 

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Automatic driveline/disconnect... or something like that. It will give you up to 2-1/2 to 3" of lift. The cv boots will wear prematurely, regardless of which type of hubs you have. It's all in the angle of the boots. Some last a long time, some fail immediatley. Most agree that cleaning the boots regularly helps their lifespan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
so your telling me this happens on every tacoma, or just mine, and is there anyway to stop it other than cleaning the boots?
 

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daveman1230 said:
how do you know i have ADD and what does it mean, at the store the guy siad i wouldnt be able to use the entire 3.5'' anyways but i have never heard of the CV boot problem, most of the threads i have read don't mention anything about the cv boots wearing down but i guess i will look into it some more, if not the fabtech kit what other shocks and springs would you recomend its not like i have already bought the parts i'm still looking
thanks for bringing this up though
Automatic Disconectiong Differential, all (pretty sure its all, somone correct me if I am wrong) late model 4wd Tacomas have it. Basically your front end is spinning all the time. When you lift your truck with anything other then a drop down bracket (pro comp, fab tech and others make them) you increase the angle on your CV joints wich in turn squishes your CV boots together and causes them to rub. And then they wear out and get a hole and leak grease and you have to replace them. Not a big deal unless you have a strong dislike for spinning wrenches, in which case I imgaine it would suck.

Anyways you options are really:

-Leave it under 2" of lift and you will most* likely* never have a boot failure

-Lift it 2.5" - 3" and run the risk of eventually blowing a boot. Some people blow boots at 2.5" and others run 3" and never have a problem, it is really a craps shoot.

-Lift 2.5-3" and get a manual hub conversion (about a grand for the parts)

-Get a drop bracket style lift wich basicaly leaves you with stock CV angles. Pro Comp makes a 4" kit, Fabtech and trail master make a 6" kit and Tuff country makes a 5"

Hope that helps

:D WELCOME TO THE MONEY PIT :D
 
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