To note; if you stick to 33x10.5 , you can keep the stock rims for a while. That saves money. You can also still fit them in the fenders, which should save some money. You should be able to skip the body lift. That will save you more money, plus...no body lift! I run 265/75/16. Tire is 32-1/2 high. If you get stuck with a 10.5, you'll get just as stuck with a 12.5. Also, I did not have to regear my truck with these tires. HA! Another way to save money. I am running a coilover front, with 2-5/8 lift, and a deaver pack in rear, for 1-1/2 lift. If getting the fabtech, other drivers have suggested the performance package coilover. They are rebuildable, unlike the standard coilover from fabtech. Others that are not too expensive are Sway away, and downey. I got the downey's, thinking they would be just a hold me over.... turns out, they are pretty good, and tons better than stock. Pinch weld mod, and no rub..
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DOOHH! My miswording. ADD front axles will popssibly start to vibrate with lift that exceeds 2-1/2 to 3" of lift, and you'll wear out cv boots faster.Oppositeboy said:What?!? Please explain how ADD gives lift.
Sorry about the confusion there. Coilovers, or spacers will give the actual lift.1 - 3 of 33 Posts
