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leave u-joint alone or drill and tap one of the caps

  • leave it alone

    Votes: 10 71.4%
  • drill that sucker

    Votes: 4 28.6%

  • Total voters
    14
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Discussion Starter #1
these new u-joints do not come with a grease zerk on em. supposedly they are lubed for life. i figure ill drill and tap a zerk so i can get new grease in there every now and then. what do you guys think? leave it alone or drill and tap?
 

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What sort of warranty do they have?
 

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drabnor said:
these new u-joints do not come with a grease zerk on em. supposedly they are lubed for life. i figure ill drill and tap a zerk so i can get new grease in there every now and then. what do you guys think? leave it alone or drill and tap?
if it was meant to be greased then it would have a zerk (well duh), so based on the warranty and whether its covered long enough for you to be happy if it blows up after warranty then go for them but leave'em alone.

if you'd prefer to maintain them periodically then buy something else.

personally, unless they have an awesome warranty, then id go with something i could keep my eye on.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
this is the response that i got when i asked about it not having the zerk
:
"The new ones don’t have a zerk fitting, toyota says they are sealed and do not need maintenance greasing. But you could if you wanted to, and some do, drill and tap it and put one in, if you do a lot of mudding, to flush out old grease with new. But, it is not necessary."

when i asked what the recomended service interval is on the new joints i got:

"That is really hard to say, everyone drives different and puts different loads and demands on those parts. They may last the life of the truck, or only 1000 miles."
 

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SteveO said:
Just get a Spicer and forget the Toyota ones.
Have you used the Spicers? Anytime I`ve ever replaced a u-joint in something it was a Spicer. What`s the part number for our trucks?
 

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I'd trust myself greasing them every now and then much more than hoping that their seal hasn't went bad due to mud or whatever. At least with the zerks in there you know that it's fully greased (or not, depending on your maintenance habits).
 

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drabnor said:
these new u-joints do not come with a grease zerk on em. supposedly they are lubed for life. i figure ill drill and tap a zerk so i can get new grease in there every now and then. what do you guys think? leave it alone or drill and tap?
Forget the ones from the dealer (GMB) and forget the spicer onces. Get the ujoint from Marlin - http://www.marlincrawler.com/shaft.html - only $20. The ujoints marlin sells are the exact ujoints that come from the factory, including the right angled grease zirk in the middle. He gets them from the same manufaturer in japan that makes them for toyota. Note: these ujoints can not be used in CV (double cardon) joints. If you need a ujoint for a CV then use Beck/Arnley part #102-0483.

later!
shane
 

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96tacolx said:
Have you used the Spicers? Anytime I`ve ever replaced a u-joint in something it was a Spicer. What`s the part number for our trucks?
I've had a spicer for the rear u-joint for about a year with no problems. I have the box in the garage and will post the part # tomorrow. ....Steve
 

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SteveO said:
I've had a spicer for the rear u-joint for about a year with no problems. I have the box in the garage and will post the part # tomorrow. ....Steve
ahhaha what's the part #?
 

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96tacolx said:
Have you used the Spicers? Anytime I`ve ever replaced a u-joint in something it was a Spicer. What`s the part number for our trucks?
I've had the u-joints that Marlin sells and the Spicer u-joints. The Spicer u-joints lasted much longer then the Marlin ones. I'm sticking with Spicer.

Spicer part # 5-1510X
 

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drabnor said:
these new u-joints do not come with a grease zerk on em. supposedly they are lubed for life. i figure ill drill and tap a zerk so i can get new grease in there every now and then. what do you guys think? leave it alone or drill and tap?
Keep in mind, if there are no grease passages made in it, drilling them will do NO good..A greasable joint has hollow passages throughout the joint for grease to flow..Most "non greaseable" joints are solid, with no passages..The only real advantage is they tend to be stronger than greaseable joints..Just my :2cents:
 
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