[Nsane1]

well, here's the deal been looking for a yota for a while now and I finally found her. For the deal I got I felt I couldn't pass it up. It's a 92 4x4 w/ the 22R-E and 33x12.50's. So, here are my main four concerns....

(1)= When breaking steering wheel goes haywire.... Like tie-rod end loose or something of that nature. Jacked it up and jerked the tire back and forth and everthing seems to look ok..... to me.... Intermediate shaft moves w/ wheel. Since I just got her tonight no time to investigate further. *be at work at 7* Just wondering if you all had some clues/thoughts. There is some play in the steering so I am going to try to adjust it tomorrow.

(2)= pretty major oil leak from front of engine. Can't really tell right now b/c too much oil.... will try to pressure wash it and see where it's coming from. Didn't know if the 22RE had any known reoccuring problems w/ seals in the front.

(3)= tons of slop in the shifter.... she's a manual. seems like slop to the passenger side only.. Just seeing if you all could point me in the right direction.

(4)= idles at 250~500 rpm's. when manual says 750. Sometimes dies when coming to a stop and having both clutch and brake applied.

So, sorry for the long spill.... I just got her and I'm pretty exited, just need to work the kinks out. As for why I bought her in this condition.... 1992 yota w/ 160,000 orig. miles in great shape body wise for 1k. Yeah, I kinda felt like I robbed him. But now, I'm kinda starting to wonder. I'm hoping it can all be fixed pretty easily.

 

[ATLRoach]

well, here's the deal been looking for a yota for a while now and I finally found her. For the deal I got I felt I couldn't pass it up. It's a 92 4x4 w/ the 22R-E and 33x12.50's. So, here are my main four concerns....

(1)= When breaking steering wheel goes haywire.... Like tie-rod end loose or something of that nature. Jacked it up and jerked the tire back and forth and everthing seems to look ok..... to me.... Intermediate shaft moves w/ wheel. Since I just got her tonight no time to investigate further. *be at work at 7* Just wondering if you all had some clues/thoughts. There is some play in the steering so I am going to try to adjust it tomorrow.

(2)= pretty major oil leak from front of engine. Can't really tell right now b/c too much oil.... will try to pressure wash it and see where it's coming from. Didn't know if the 22RE had any known reoccuring problems w/ seals in the front.

(3)= tons of slop in the shifter.... she's a manual. seems like slop to the passenger side only.. Just seeing if you all could point me in the right direction.

(4)= idles at 250~500 rpm's. when manual says 750. Sometimes dies when coming to a stop and having both clutch and brake applied.

So, sorry for the long spill.... I just got her and I'm pretty exited, just need to work the kinks out. As for why I bought her in this condition.... 1992 yota w/ 160,000 orig. miles in great shape body wise for 1k. Yeah, I kinda felt like I robbed him. But now, I'm kinda starting to wonder. I'm hoping it can all be fixed pretty easily.

#1: Check Ball joints and TREs if not you may have severe warped rotors.

#2: Could be a bunch of things.. Clean it and report back

#3: Shifter Bush needs to be replaced. Pretty common on W series trannies

#4: You have a vaccum leak that is causing this. Use an unlit propane torch along the vac lines and wait for the motor to rev up. Then you found your leak. Replace the hose.

 

[Camstoy86]

(3)= tons of slop in the shifter.... she's a manual. seems like slop to the passenger side only.. Just seeing if you all could point me in the right direction.

I had the same problem with my 86. Turns out that the four bolts that hold the shifter housing to th top of the trans were all loose. I would check those first. :2cents:

 

[kingbrian24]

well for the oil leak every toy i ever owned ive had to do the front main and my last one leaked ALOT!! and like camstoy86 said i have that happen also and if thats good theres a bushing inside the tranny on the shifter end you can check that also, and for the steering issue check the upper control arm bushings along with the ball joints, big tires can be harsh on IFS

 

[Rattlecanpaint]

Actually, none of these seem to me like major problems. Just need to fix what the prev owner didn't want to. X2 on everything above and I've had to replace the Valve cover gasket on all my 4cyl yotas. Much easier fix than front main, but still not that bad. One of the cool parts about these trucks is that they're pretty easy to work on with a minority of tools. Also might want to do a tune up. (Plugs, wires, (get the good ones, not auto zone), cap and rotor, fuel filter etc.)

 

[Nsane1]

Thanks a lot guys. You just made me feel a lot better about my purchase. As for some of the minor problems.... Headlight out, wiper blades gone, rear bumper rusted in half and flopping. I took care of all that tonight. Also, I did a temporary fix on the idle problem by turning the idle up.

ATLRoach.... I've never heard of the propane torch but sounds like an awesome way to find it. Thanks for the help

As for the front main... I would probably agree. Also kinda looks like oil pan gasket (picket a felpro up today). Is there any hints, advice you all can give me before I dive into this project? And can I pull the oil pan without lifting the motor or is there something in the way?

Also, thanks a ton for the heads up on the bolts and bushing in the shifter. This will now all be taken care of this weekend. I'll probably buy new front rotors and pads b/c I believe that is my culpriate. I have found today that if I barely press the brakes it will start shaking at about 35 mph. If I then push the brakes moderately harder it goes away. So my money is on the rotors and we'll see how it pans out from there.

Again guys, a HUGE thanks goes out. This will save me a shit-ton of time and money. I believe I'll be on this site quite daily for a long time.

 

[OldSchool89]

The oilpan will interfere with the front diff unless you drop the front diff down.

My oil pan gasket oozes slowly.... I just let it go. I've had to do the front main twice. Use a toyota gasket! Much higher quality than aftermarket and use a speedysleeve to cover up the groove in the crankshaft pulley. Put a breaker on the crankshaft bolt and hit the starter to loosen the bolt. Saves tons of time trying to break the bolt loose.

 

[Rattlecanpaint]

Yea, you'll have to jack up the engine to do the pan gasket, and for sure use the starter to loosen the crank bolt. It's a major PITA to try it any other way.

 

[TatonkaII]

Id bet that leak is from the cam shaft oil seal. cheap fix, but can be a PITA to replace the first time you do it.

 

[Rattlecanpaint]

Id bet that leak is from the cam shaft oil seal. cheap fix, but can be a PITA to replace the first time you do it.

The half moon thing in the front of the head?

 

[Nsane1]

well guys, thanks for all the help again. And when I do take the front end apart I will go ahead and change the timing chain and water pump....

Found another problem today that kinda pisses me off.... 4WD does NOT work!!!!
I'm hoping that it's something simple. I'm going to try to check into it further.

BTW, are there any helpful write-ups on changing out the cam and front seals? I like having the most input before I dive right in. Usually makes things go smoother.
And say I was just wondering..... How cheap could I get a used 22R-E for?

 

[Rattlecanpaint]

When you change the timing chain, be sure to get a full kit that has metal backed guides.

 

[Nsane1]

When you change the timing chain, be sure to get a full kit that has metal backed guides.

alright, will do. Anybody know any known problems w/ the 4WD in the Yota? I'd like to fix it soon.

 

[Rattlecanpaint]

I'm assuming it has automatic hubs, so odds are the problem is in a vacuum line or a vacuum relay. I believe the relays are on the drivers side frame rail in the engine compt. Follow the vac lines from the diff.

 

[Nsane1]

I'm assuming it has automatic hubs, so odds are the problem is in a vacuum line or a vacuum relay. I believe the relays are on the drivers side frame rail in the engine compt. Follow the vac lines from the diff.

It's got manual lock in hubs. BTW, are there any pretty easy swaps for the yota? I wouldn't mind putting the V-6 in it but I believe that's quite a bit of work. Just wondering b/c I'm thinking about just doing a motor transplant. I believe she's trying to start knocking. She's burning a little oil as well as leaking it.

 

[Rattlecanpaint]

Are you SURE the 4wd isn't working? That's a completely mechanical system so I'd think if somethig was broke it'd be noisey. You got both hubs locked in? I ask 'cause I've seen it where one is in and one is out and then you go and turn them both and just THINK you've turned them both in.)

As for a motor swap. Yea, swapping in a v6 is a lot of work, but it's certainly possible. 160k is not alot of miles for one of those engines. Seems odd for it to have a rod knock unless it's REALLY not been maintained. If it's burning a little oil, put in a quart of Lucas Oil stabilizer at the next oil change. (Which should be now since you just bought it.) Mine went from burning 2 quarts every 3k to a quart every 5k.

 

[OldSchool89]

It's got manual lock in hubs. BTW, are there any pretty easy swaps for the yota? I wouldn't mind putting the V-6 in it but I believe that's quite a bit of work. Just wondering b/c I'm thinking about just doing a motor transplant. I believe she's trying to start knocking. She's burning a little oil as well as leaking it.

I agree with rattlecan, if the rings are bad or it's knocking that's real unusual for a 22re with that number of miles unless some major badness has occurred. If I ever need to repower I'm just gonna drop in a new 22re with engnbldr head on it... nearly 150 HP plus 22re reliability.

Is the timing chain rattling? You can easily check the guides by popping off the valve cover and taking a look at them. The driver side guide is the one that breaks. If they're intact I'd defer the timing chain job personally. Swapping out the front main takes like 15 minutes. Changing the timing chain takes a full day at least.

As for the 4x4, give us more info on what it's doing or not doing. If both hubs are locked does the front driveshaft turn if you lift the front end and turn either front wheel by hand when the TC is in 2H? When you put it in 4H can you then turn the wheels by hand? There's not too many places that can be screwed up there. Hubs, diff, TC.

 

[Nsane1]

could be something other than a motor knock b/c it doesn't always do it. Mainly at low rpm and not consistent. It just seems like this truck was abused by it's previous owner.

As for the timing chain.... It's got 160,000 so I figured that it was time for it. And I might as well change it while I'm in there. I'll take a whole weekend so I know I have enough time.

As for the 4x4. I haven't really looked into it w/ a whole lot of detail yet. MY only reason for saying this is b/c on the way home from work I decided to check... Pulled off in a field, locked (or turned to lock) hubs, put in 4H and let eat. Front driver side wheel wasn't turning and it didn't look like the passenger side had any mud on it. I will try the lifting front end locking it in and spinning the wheel by hand. This is my first 4x4 so I'm not very familiar w/ the whole operation just yet.

 

[eightyfive]

to test 4x4, lock the hubs and put it in 4lo, make a sharp turn and you will know if the 4x4 is working or not. thats how i test the 4bys when i buy em.

 

[ljschnel]

Timing chain should be good for 250K miles or more. Just check the guides like others have recommended, if one of those wears out or breaks it will not be good.