X2 match angles within 1 degree and they cancel each other out...in theory. I did all of this and it still vibed. I wanted to throw the whole freeking set up in the trash and go back to stockOne thing is I notice that many are fixing the vibs by shimming the same way they would a 96-04... but you cant do it that way anymore. The early tacos had a dual cardian joint at the carrier bearing, so all you needed to do was point the pinion at the carrier bearing.. well the dual cardian joint is now a normal CV so you have to match angles....
What is the "driveshaft spacer block" and wear did you get it?I put the driveshaft spacer block in when I did my complete Old man Emu suspension and I have ZERO vibrations. None. My truck rides better than stock.
It's a center support bearing spacer. It drops the center support down. Wheelers has them.What is the "driveshaft spacer block" and wear did you get it?
You are pretty much right on with your asumption of what the problems are when we lift these trucks.X2 match angles within 1 degree and they cancel each other out...in theory. I did all of this and it still vibed. I wanted to throw the whole freeking set up in the trash and go back to stockWhen you drop the center support bearing, you increase the angle of the joint at the TC and front side of the support bearing, that opens up a new can "O" shit. You also need to take pinion climb into consideration. So the back joint needs to have some negative angle in it to compensate. You can't just point the pinion at the center support and call it good (without a double cardan the the center support). Props to AH64ID on that point. I really think that when the angles are set up properly, this issue has something to do with the rubber mounts transferring vibe to the chassis. I may be crazy, but what else could it be
I understand DL theory, but I am not an expert. So, any input is greatly appreciated. If someone else comes up with a valid solution, that TOTALLY fixes the off idle shudder/vibe, I will tip my hat and give full credit.
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The only way to match the original geometry is to leave it alone. Thats the problem. We mess with it and expect it to drive the same. You must take into consederation the changes you have made and factor in those changes with your new geometry. Jesse has done that. Call him. Save yourself the headache.Yeah, the T-cast is offset from the rear diff. I can't tell by how much, but lying under it and looking at it, it seems like a pretty big difference. IMO, I can't see why the stock 2 piece wouldn't/shouldn't work. I keep thinking that they designed it like this for a reason and if we could match the original geometry then it should work fine. I just don't want to take all my crap out to take a bunch of measurements. If I thought my 285/75's would fit without the lift, I would remove the whole damn thing and start over.
Make sure when they do it, it is in phase. When I had my first one done I did the same thing you are talking about doing and ended up with a worse case of vibration than I did before. Like I said earlier, just having the parts installed dosen't mean you've got the fix correct. Good luck with that.I called High Angle DL today and their fix is a double cardan at the center support. He makes a complete custom shaft with all 1 ton 1350 series joints and it costs $750ish. I think I'll take my shaft out and have Drive Line service put a double cardan in it. I saved all the old parts when I went to a 1 piece shaft, so it's not cost effective for me buy a new unit complete.
10-4 yup, well aware of phase issue. I go back 20 years with this shop. They have done all my lifted trucks and race cars driveshafts to perfection. As I said before, this has been a science project. My one piece shaft worked fine until I lifted the back another 1.5 inches. High Angle DL is not the only shop on the planet that is capable of building a quality DS. But I do appreciate your input, so please don't take that the wrong way. We had a detailed conversation yesterday and I have the numbers correct for the angles, pinion climb, etc.. They were very helpful at High Angle. This is just a matter of using a CV at the center support and changing the axle shim for the new 2 piece shaft. In reality, this issue is a freeking PITA. 2.5 inches of lift is nothing and on most trucks would be an easy fix. Toyota dropped the ball on this one, cause my DS had a small shudder vibe stock!! The dealer wouldn't even acknowledge it and claimed the truck was fine. I drove a few others and they had the same shudder/vibe, so I know I'm not dreaming.This truck is just a PITA finicky be-otch when it comes to DL vibe issuesMake sure when they do it, it is in phase. When I had my first one done I did the same thing you are talking about doing and ended up with a worse case of vibration than I did before. Like I said earlier, just having the parts installed dosen't mean you've got the fix correct. Good luck with that.