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NorCal Chapter Pres
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12,210 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here's a list of mods and links to the page that the discussion starts.
• First and second day of wrenching SAS: (Cutting, torching, and magdrilling) http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614

• Third Day: Welding brackets/Test fitting: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=3


• Fourth day (Shocks and final Pics): http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=8

• Shortening Caps on Weld Rims: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=12


• Welding shock mounts/Chevy Spring Install: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=13

• Rework IFS Driveshaft: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=15


• Crossmember Modification+Install DS: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=16

• First Wheeling Trip + Front Wheelwell Clearance: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=18


• Crawl Box Install (First Day, old design): http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=25

• Crawl Box Install (Second Day): http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=27


• Crawl Box Install (Shifters): http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=29

• Crawl Box Install (Complete): http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=30


• Crawl Box Install (Source of Leaks, and Transmission Poly Mount Fab): http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=32

• Crawl Box Install (Final Crossmember modification): http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=34


• CV Driveshaft part info: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=35

• Bumper Fab: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=36


• Bumper Fab Day two: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=37

• Bumper Fab Day 3, Foglight Install, CV Driveshaft Repair: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=39


• Crawl Box Install Part 2 (Sealing leaks): http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=40

• Testing the crawl box, Panhard bracket Fix: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=41


• Trunnion Bearing PN,s Frombe Arms: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=42

• 4.88 Regear: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=43


• Corner Weigh + PSC Pump fitment: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=48

• PSC Pump install + Hydro Assist: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=49


• FOA Install: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=52

• Rear Brackets for FOA Shocks: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=53


• PSC Overflow bottle: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=54

• Tundra Brake Swap: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=55


• Lic. Plate lights + Raceline Beadlock Install: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=58

• Crawler Box Fretting: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=59


• Corner Weigh Round 2 (With COG numbers!): http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=61

• Rear Gears Blown, avoid JAWs gear and axle: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=61


• Rear Brake Caliper Info for Full Float: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=62

• ZUK’s rear gear install, Full Float Install: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=63


• Front Gears bad, Avoid JAWs gear and axle!: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=64
http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=65


• Front Gear Install (Nitro 4.88 with 29 Spline): http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=66
http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=67

• Full Float Install + Prop Valve: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=67


• Full Float Install (E-brake + Parts List): http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=68

• Full Float Install (Final Assy): http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=69



• Crawl Box Fretting (Disassembly): http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=69

• Crawl Box 2 (Assembing a Crawl Box Without Leaks [Detailed]!): http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=70
http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=71

• Crawl Box 3 (Leaks Back, almost lost case on the freeway): http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=73


• Crawl Box 4 (Machined hardware to prevent leaks + movement): http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=75

• DIY Bubble Balancing Beadlocks: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=75


• FOA Shock Rebuilding + Reshimming: http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102614&page=76















Well, finally decided to do it. Bought the axle and hardware from jh3. I started rebuilding it after one of the hubs wouldn't unlock. One thing lead to another (I'm not going to get into it and I don't want this to be a bashing thread) but I ended up going through the whole axle.



First night of wrenchin



All assembled, painted, and built:


Axle specs:

Toy axle (I believe a 83) chopped, and flipped, knuckles rotated, balls gusseted, axle gusseted, 1/4" plate for the cover, plated under the 3rd.
ARP Knuckle Studs
V6 3rd with 4.10's (Now with 4.88's)
30 Spline Chromo Longs
Allens from the inside out to replace the studs on the 3rd
Marlin Seals
TG High Steer kit w/FJ ends (Now 4x4lab Frombe Steer Arms)
RuffStuff Specialties Spring Perches
IFS hubs
IFS calipers (they're confirmed that they are not V6)
Sky IFS widening kit
ARP hub studs
Longfields chromo hub gears
FJ rotors
TG rock rings

SAS specs:
35" BFG KM2's
Marlin 4" Springs
5/16" spring crossmember, with 3/8" perches
Frame plated from cab forward
5/16" shackle perches
Panhard bar with links from Ballistic
63" Chebies
Borgeson Steering Shaft and hoses from Bentup
And a lot of other parts.

Note that I didn't really buy any metal parts, except for the rear leaf perches. I had the shackles made from 5/16" plate, as well as the brackets, perches, steering box mounts, and frame braces.

The rig before the chop:
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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12,210 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
So the first day will be covered in this post:

Truck loaded up with the axle, 220v welder, and parts:


We first had to make room at my brothers house. We started by disassembling the front end. Note the BURLY spring perches and crossmemebr tacked on:


Once we had everything pulled out that was going to be sold (minus the steering rack, arms, and diff) we began torching. My dad came up and showed me a SLICK technique:


You would essentially use a "skarfing tip" and just melt the metal away. It keeps a lot of the heat away form the frame and leaves virtually nothing left to grind. We didn't have that tip on hand, so we just used a cutting tip. You would run the o2 pressure higher, and then turn it about a 1/4 turn from regular cutting. Stick your finger behind the lever and do not hit it. Keep it paralell to the bracket, and just melt the metal away till you see the frame. Keep it movin!

The first initial pass was just to get things out of the way. This technique still left us close, and it was done quickly, with NO chance of getting holes in the frame:


After the IFS was off, we made a second pass, getting as close as we could. Again, a very quick, easy process.


Didn't even take 10 minutes to get it to look like this (That's no joke there)




At this point, it was starting to get late, so we decided to call it a night. I just had to weld the crossmember on. The 220V wouldn't do the 3/8 or 5/16" with gas, so I had to use flux. Owell, I'd rather have a stronger weld:


Thanks DAD!!!
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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12,210 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
This post covers the long, second day of work:

Today, my mom and my brother came up. My mom brought the tool from the rental place, a MagDrill. This will be covered later. My brother came up and brought a Hogan (sp) bit. Both will be covered later :)

My brothers worked on the oil pan, and steering shaft, while I torched the frame plates and got them clean. We then took the mag drill and drilled holes in the frame plates. This didn't take long at all because the Magdrill w/ the hogan really speeds things up:


Here's the plate getting clamped into place. You can see the first hole welded, and steering shaft in place. Plate is 3/16" plate:







I then torched out the plates for the steering box, and welded that on. My brother was also prepping the inside of the frame.






So now was the time to fire up the mag drill, before the day ended. If anyone needs to drill holes straight through the frame, and have a perfect hole, rent a magdrill. It took only 60 bucks, but it saved A LOT of time, frustration, and left me with perfect holes. The hogan bit finished it off, but it is a very expensive bit.

Here is the drill. It has an electromagnetic base. The top is movable my loosening a clamp that clamps it to the base. This can get you set. Think of it as a mini drill press that is portable. To use, you only have to take off the driver side bracket for the bumper on the fender. There's just enough clearance.


Here is the Hogan bit. It is essentially like a holesaw on steroids. This will leave a hole cut on center, and at the perfect diameter. (1 1/16")


The only problem that me and my brother did not account for, is the thickness of the frame now with the paltes added. The hogan bit was not long enough to reach the other side. So we drilled a 1/4" pilot after center punching the holes for the box:


With this hole, I used a holesaw on the inside of the frame (since the magdrill cannot be used on the inside)

We then opened up the 1/4" hole on the outer side of the frame, to the 5/16" hole that the hogan bit uses to center itself. Here you can see the center punch, and it drilled through the first plate:


It just leaves you with little discs. Really accurate.

Here you can see the centering punch go through the hole:


The hogan bit is used in steel manufacturing for drilling holes that aren't drilled correctly. All you could need to do is mark a center punch, and use that bit. Only thing is, the bit is designed to be used with a hollow drill chuck so the punch for the hogan bit can slide up. Ours is not, so we had to drill out to 5/16"

I am now left with 3 perfectly straight holes that are square in relation to the frame. They are also within 1/32" of each other in relation to the steering box. Not bad?


Here you can see the hogan bit:


The center punch slides in the middle:


The end of it:



We also got the other plate tacked on. At this point, we were tired, called it a day, and here's how she sits (Will probably be a inch or so higher)


 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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12,210 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
What 220 welder are you using that can not do 5/16??
Lincoln 180. To do 5/16" with a single pass, I need to use flux core. It can do it with gas, but would need to have two passes to be strong.
 

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Going John Galt
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I love seeing all the bare skin/feet with sparks and slag flying, weee!

looking good so far.

I'll have to keep my eyes out for those Hogan bits at sales ;)
 

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sweet, deff going to watch this thread as i prepare to do mine in 2 months! looks good so far, the IFS bracket removal was damn near perfect!

What brand of shocks are you planning on running? (I cant decide on anything lol)
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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12,210 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
nice work with a lincoln 180 and flux.. ! I've gotten spoiled with the millermatic 251's at the shop.
Thanks! The front crossmember was a paint on he top because of the large gap that the radius creates.

Awesome! I think I've seen your truck more with the bumper off then on. :D
:p Plate bumper will be in the future

I love seeing all the bare skin/feet with sparks and slag flying, weee!

looking good so far.

I'll have to keep my eyes out for those Hogan bits at sales ;)
Yeah, it worked out sweet. It basically turned the drill into a milling machine.

sweet, deff going to watch this thread as i prepare to do mine in 2 months! looks good so far, the IFS bracket removal was damn near perfect!

What brand of shocks are you planning on running? (I cant decide on anything lol)
Yeah, using the technique that my pops showed me worked out great. Just remember to keep your thump behind the lever. If you push on the lever at all, the already oxygen enriched flame will just blow through the frame.

I have 12" 5150's sitting, waiting for a home. Rear will be the same, but I don't know the legnth yet.
 

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Going John Galt
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I have 12" 5150's sitting, waiting for a home. Rear will be the same, but I don't know the length yet.
for the rear you might look at 7100 SBs since they are shorter compressed than 5150s of the same travel amount. Otherwise you'll need a lot of rear lift or some interesting rear mount locations ;)
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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12,210 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Good point, never thought of that.

Hopefully I'll get the rear started so I can figure out my legnths.
 

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Going John Galt
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Good point, never thought of that.

Hopefully I'll get the rear started so I can figure out my legnths.
I have about 6" of rear lift and still run the old 10" 5150s I had before the swap...the 7100s have been sitting in a box waiting for me to figure out how to do the upper mounts...sigh...:rolleyes:
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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12,210 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Well, I got the 8.5" 5150's so I can't reuse them.

I'm not going to do a ^ because I still tow, and use it as a truck. I think I'm ust going to lean both of them back.
 

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Going John Galt
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31,844 Posts
Well, I got the 8.5" 5150's so I can't reuse them.

I'm not going to do a ^ because I still tow, and use it as a truck. I think I'm ust going to lean both of them back.
run the lower mounts down as low as you can (w/o getting silly ;)) ...just use beefy shock tabs and armor them. Then run your upper mount bar up as close to the bed as you can and, as you say, tilted back. ...should be fine. worst case...you make taller bumps to keep them from bottoming out.

my problem is that the springs have loosened up to the point that the shocks are now the limiting factor...not good.
 

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Going John Galt
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I thought you installed limit straps at some point.
not even planned for the rear...noone I know even has them in the rear except some of the hardcore desert guys ;)
I have front straps sitting in the garage.
 

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i was thinking of going with 4 7100s, or maybe even some swayAways because they would just look 'bling' on my impulse red truck...but thats alot of money to shell out when i could just go with a 5100/5150 and get probably the same performance since im pretty softcore haha
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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12,210 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Very nice start! Thats great progress for the first day. That drill idea is brilliant, makes setting the steering up much easier.
Yeah. for 60 bucks, it was well worth it's wieght in gold. Only downside is you need 3 people to safely manuver it onto the frame: Two to lift, one to hit the button.

You can lift it with two people but it's sketch. Make sure to use a lot of oil too, it'll speed up the process.

I was hoping to get more done, but for cleaning up the area and losing half a day, I'm very pleased with what I got done.

I expect to drive this thing in two weeks :) Shitty part is I can only work on it in weekends.
 
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