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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Discussion Starter #521
I think that pretty good for mud terrains. I'd be happy with it!
Not to mention I haven't rotated in a while. The back still has more tread left than the front...
 

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I think that pretty good for mud terrains. I'd be happy with it!
The older bfg mt's got a lot more life than that... So no, in my book, that ain't pretty good.
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Discussion Starter #524
Got the rear shocks mounted up last weekend. The shock clamps that I had machines will not work. I thought the body was 2" Diameter, and the Resi's are 2" diameter (As with many other manufactures). Turns out the resivor is 2" diameter, and the body of the shock is a little over 2". I pulled out a caliper and measured it to 2.066. Enough to make it not work. For the meantime till I get those remachined, the resi's are zip tied to the shock crossmember.



The shock brackets on there before would not work. I had to grind the living hell out of it to clearance it, but the shock body would hit the bracket. What I ended up doing was making a tab/shock bung similar to the front shock tower. It works perfectly:



Basically, I went with a 10" shock over the 12" (The 12's would almost bottom out when I had the bed loaded.) The Previous bracket was welded up high. This tab is angled down, to compress 1" more. This will allow me to not limit droop, or bottom out when compressed.

The Tab is just 1/4" with a 1" hole. The shock bung is a piece of tubing, 1" OD, 1/2" ID, 1" long. It's welded flush to the tab. Cad drawing of the tab:



Needless to say, the rear valving is pretty spot on. It's a tiny bit stiff, but it should be a tiny bit soft when loaded down. I think I'll get the best of both worlds. Compared to the 5150's, it's a complete night and day difference...
 

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.

Basically, I went with a 10" shock over the 12" (The 12's would almost bottom out when I had the bed loaded.) The Previous bracket was welded up high. This tab is angled down, to compress 1" more. This will allow me to not limit droop, or bottom out when compressed.quote]

Phil can you run that by me one more time?
Shorter shock compressed 1" more and no bottom out?
I must have missed it.

I'm going to change my /\ set up and replace the 5150s pretty soon, so not being a smart ass, just want to know.:)
 

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Going John Galt
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.

Basically, I went with a 10" shock over the 12" (The 12's would almost bottom out when I had the bed loaded.) The Previous bracket was welded up high. This tab is angled down, to compress 1" more. This will allow me to not limit droop, or bottom out when compressed.quote]

Phil can you run that by me one more time?
Shorter shock compressed 1" more and no bottom out?
I must have missed it.

I'm going to change my /\ set up and replace the 5150s pretty soon, so not being a smart ass, just want to know.:)
yea, I had the same "huh?" reaction :p
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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12,208 Posts
Discussion Starter #527
.

Basically, I went with a 10" shock over the 12" (The 12's would almost bottom out when I had the bed loaded.) The Previous bracket was welded up high. This tab is angled down, to compress 1" more. This will allow me to not limit droop, or bottom out when compressed.quote]

Phil can you run that by me one more time?
Shorter shock compressed 1" more and no bottom out?
I must have missed it.

I'm going to change my /\ set up and replace the 5150s pretty soon, so not being a smart ass, just want to know.:)
I had 12" shocks, that the brackets were up as high as they could. It was almost the the point of bottoming out.

I now have 10" shocks, and the bracket has the mount 1" lower. This will not allow the shock to bottom out, and I still have full droop..
 

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I had 12" shocks, that the brackets were up as high as they could. It was almost the the point of bottoming out.

I now have 10" shocks, and the bracket has the mount 1" lower. This will not allow the shock to bottom out, and I still have full droop..
Isn't that what you said the first time? I don't get it.

Try explaining it like you are talking to one of Jerrys kids.:D
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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12,208 Posts
Discussion Starter #529
Well, fully compressed, a 5150 is 17.78 and when it's fully extended it's 29.70.
The FOA 12" is 18.3 and 30.3. Since I was already almost bottoming out the 5150's (and the mounts were as far apart as they could get) I couldn't run the 12" FOA without getting creative.
The FOA 10" is 16.3 compressed, and 26.3 extended. Because the extended legnth was too short, I had to make the mount 1" lower than it was to make up for it.
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Discussion Starter #533
Finally getting rid of the IFS calipers and FJ60 rotors. Found a good deal on craigslist so I picked it up. Tundra slotted rotors with loaded calipers. Rebuilt the calipers and painted everything...





Looking to get rid of my setup because it just isn't cutting it when I'm hauling something. Up for sale soon will be loaded IFS calipers, FJ60 rotors and a Sky IFS widening kit.
 

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Going John Galt
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Finally getting rid of the IFS calipers and FJ60 rotors. Found a good deal on craigslist so I picked it up. Tundra slotted rotors with loaded calipers. Rebuilt the calipers and painted everything...





Looking to get rid of my setup because it just isn't cutting it when I'm hauling something. Up for sale soon will be loaded IFS calipers, FJ60 rotors and a Sky IFS widening kit.
so nice...what you can do with 17" wheels :rolleyes:
 

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The process you are using to do that is the same process you recommended i do to my flipped front? With the FROR kit and the IFS hubs and lockers?

Perhaps one day if i run across a tundra brake set at a decent price i may look into upgrading too.

BTW... I ordered my FROR kit on the 25th and it hasn't even shipped yet. :mad:
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Discussion Starter #536
so nice...what you can do with 17" wheels :rolleyes:
They're the S13WE calipers, same ones IFS tacomas are using with 16's :)

The process you are using to do that is the same process you recommended i do to my flipped front? With the FROR kit and the IFS hubs and lockers?

Perhaps one day if i run across a tundra brake set at a decent price i may look into upgrading too.

BTW... I ordered my FROR kit on the 25th and it hasn't even shipped yet. :mad:
Yeah. If you don't use a Tundra/Tacoma caliper, you have to use Sky's IFS widening kit, with IFS calipers and a FJ60 rotor, (along with the IFS hubs, and locking hubs). If you want to use a Tacoma/Tundra caliper, you need the caliper, rotors, FROR's braking kit, ifs hubs, and ifs locking hubs.

Either one will widen your stance by about 3". The FROR setup will widen it about 3/8-1/2" more because now you are including the thickness of the rotor.
 

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They're the S13WE calipers, same ones IFS tacomas are using with 16's :)



Yeah. If you don't use a Tundra/Tacoma caliper, you have to use Sky's IFS widening kit, with IFS calipers and a FJ60 rotor, (along with the IFS hubs, and locking hubs). If you want to use a Tacoma/Tundra caliper, you need the caliper, rotors, FROR's braking kit, ifs hubs, and ifs locking hubs.

Either one will widen your stance by about 3". The FROR setup will widen it about 3/8-1/2" more because now you are including the thickness of the rotor.
So the Tacoma/Tundra calipers are the same? You are the one who got me to go that direction on mine anyway. You responded to my flipped toy axle thread on pirate. Can't wait for my stuff to come in so i can get it all on there.
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Discussion Starter #538
Mounts are practally the same, but the Tundra calipers have bigger pistons, more surface area on the pads, and the rotors are a bigger diameter, and thicker so they resist warping.

The only thing that's different about the mounts is that the ears on the tundra calipers are longer, because the diameter of the rotor is bigger.
 

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Mounts are practally the same, but the Tundra calipers have bigger pistons, more surface area on the pads, and the rotors are a bigger diameter, and thicker so they resist warping.

The only thing that's different about the mounts is that the ears on the tundra calipers are longer, because the diameter of the rotor is bigger.
Pistons might even be the same size. If the tundras are bigger its not by much. Larger pads and being able to run the larger rotor is the biggest reason to use the Tundras version.

Tacoma/4runner 16" Caliper Vs 199mm Tundra Caliper


 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Discussion Starter #540
Well it's about time I got rid of my skippyjar catch can for my PSC pump. Didn't want to bend over to PSC for a fancy catch can, so I fabbed my own.


Bracket used to mount it to the core support. The top rail was too flimsy, so I had to add a extra support leg, that's drilled and tapped. The can is just a water bottle that's been drilled and a fitting/hose JB welded into place, and the top filler has been cut, grinded/sanded flat, and a barbed nipple threaded/JB welded into place with a filter.




How it sits in the truck. Just enough clearance for the hood to close. Still need to drill/tap a 90 degree fitting on the cab, but at least I'm closed up and not pulling in dirt on the catch can.

Total cost? Around 25 bucks.
 
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