TTORA Forum banner

761 - 780 of 801 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,596 Posts
I think I referred to this thread about every day during my swap. Great info!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,213 Posts
Discussion Starter #763
All it needs is a table of contents, I always lose track of where each write up is.
Good idea, maybe I'll work on it one of these days.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,795 Posts
Nice writeup, i accidentally orderd the wrong valving on my rear bilstein 7100s and i will probibly re valve them in the future. I have the same problem it rides like a tank on the street, i havent wheeled it yet, i am going on an 8day wheeling trip next week, so i should have plenty of data!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,795 Posts
It's an inchworm box, but marlin boxes have issues as well
I would have called marlin and got a non clocking case, screw this whole mess. I remeber looking at them when i was building my crawler boxes, and it looked like WAY too many bolts and this to go wrong, so i went with non clocking for reliability. I locktited all my bolts beause mine loosend as well. Another thing that kept the bolts on was the right stuff that got on the threads and held them on.

I also read through your last tacse build with the metal fretting. I still think the best solution is getting a tacse with a longer input shaft, I.E lefty, d300 or atlas. I built a lefty and have been happy so far, i change the oil twice a year and it comes out looking clean. I do have a leak out the back of it that i just cannot fix, mostly making things wet and casuing a drip a week on the floor. I have replaced the rear output seal, resealed the back of the tcase using your method, paper gasket only, ultra gray and finally the right stuff only and all with the same results. It sucks because when i first built and installed my crawler back in 08 i had it completely leak free, ever since i ahd to rebuild it the following year, nothing but drips... I forget about the hassel once i am on the rocks though!!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,213 Posts
Discussion Starter #766
As for the fretting the problem is solved. The double row bearing stopped the fretting. As for longer splines, it would help but the main issue is the single row bearing allows the coupler to deflect, causing the coupler to be at an angle

For your leaks, you said you're using rtv and a paper gasket. The problem is a paper gasket swells and that's how it seals. Using rtv means that it is encased and cannot swell. You're essentially doing the same thing as using rtv.

Try using the aviation stuff with a paper gasket. It's tacky and still allows the paper to swell. It also adds extra sealing properties and is meant for close tolerances.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,795 Posts
Food for thought when my fretted and striped it was with a double row bearing. When i used the paper gasket, i didnt put any rtv on it the first time and it lealed like there was nothing on it. If i have to tear this down again ill try that aviation gasket stuff.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,213 Posts
Discussion Starter #768
All it needs is a table of contents, I always lose track of where each write up is.
Added a TOC on the first page. Not in alphabetical order, but in chronological order
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,596 Posts
Added a TOC on the first page. Not in alphabetical order, but in chronological order
Unfortunately, It looks like the page references in the links only work if a user has the same setting for posts per page. Mine is set at 40 posts per page so I only show 20 pages total. Every link with a page reference over 20 takes me to the last page of this thread. The ones with page references less than 20 don't match up with the descriptions. You might need to do the post count links so they will work for everyone. (ex. http://ttora.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2367988&postcount=768)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,213 Posts
Discussion Starter #770
(doh)

I'll work on that
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
You could even just reference the post number, without a link.

Thanks for doing that, you have a ton of great info here, and now it will be even easier to find.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,213 Posts
Discussion Starter #772 (Edited)
My truck has had issues keeping itself cool. Completely empty on the freeway it would run 198-200, up a slight grade, I'd be pushing 205-210. While towing my boat, A/C off, up a slight grade, I hit 219, and the fan clutch wasn't even engaged. These temps were read thru scangauge, and note that the gauge on the dash was in the middle the whole time.

Check this link out. The Landcruisers have problems running hot, and this info applies to the Stock AISIN clutch...

http://www.offroad80s.com/how-to-top-up-your-fan-clutch-and-do-the-blue-fan-clutch-mod-t1160.html


I did not change the silicone fluid, but I will probably at some point change it to 6,000 CST fluid.

I checked my "timing" on the clutch. The hole would be halfway open when I heated the water to 137 degrees. I adjusted it so the hole is halfway open at 107 degrees. Note that this is not engaging the clutch 100%, this is when the clutch starts shearing some of the oil.

I immediately noticed that day that the A/C is much cooler, especially at stoplights. Around town my truck now runs 188-190 degrees, on a hot day, with the A/C running. With the a/c off, the temp is the same.

On the freeway, loaded for a 4 wheeling trip (roughly 400-500 lbs extra) the truck runs about 192 on the freeway, climb a grade and the temp still climbs. I went up this long grade doing 70, 4th gear pinned (to see how hot I could get it up to) and the temp spiked slowly to 209. Once I was flat, the temp cooled off much quicker than it used to, back to 192.

Crawling the trails, you can hear the fan, where before you would never really hear it at all. All day crawling with the AC on, the hottest I got was 193, before I'd be in the 200 degree range and the A/C would be cool. The A/C is now cold.

I wouldn't recommend the 10,000 CST fluid, and the 95 degree engagement, but I would recommend a 6,000 fluid changeout, and around a 107-110 engagement.


FWIW, changing the engagement just makes the fan come on sooner. The amount of fluid and the thickness of the fluid makes the fan clutch spin faster when engaged. Also note that a fan clutch will never be 100% engaged. There will always be some slip. At "full engagement" you're probably still slipping 5-10%...


Either way I'm happy. I saw no loss in MPG's, and the motor and PS pump is now kept cooler. Cost me no money, but if I were to change the oil, I would be out only about 10 bucks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,388 Posts
Phill, your link didn't work.

Also, some simple mods to the fan clutch will make the truck run cooler all around, is that right? Sounds like a pretty big bonus all together. I just wonder if the longevity of other parts will be compromised at all. Maybe bearings wear out sooner?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,213 Posts
Discussion Starter #774
I think the silicone would wear out faster since you're shearing it more. IMHO, if regathering have the silicone wear out than the motor or the power steering wear out


I'll look into the link.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
447 Posts
Props

Phill,
Incredible build! Over the past couple days I have read every last post and as so many have said before, well done sir! I started building my rig in 2006, but it was never completed as I was pursuing a career in motorsports, but I'm back and stoked that you have kept such a great build record. I will certainly be referring to your detailed write ups for a lot of work to be done...especially sealing up my duals.

Cheers! :xbeer3:

T
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,213 Posts
Discussion Starter #777
Definitely take your time and use gaskets. It'll be worth the effort!
 

·
Going John Galt
Joined
·
31,845 Posts
hey Phill...you ever gonna pick up that diff skid U-bolt that's been sitting on my porch? :p
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,213 Posts
Discussion Starter #779
Recently I've been getting some noise from my shifters. I also had some slop in the stock transfercase shifter that was making it hard to shift. It was becoming very annoying.

I first looked into replacing the shifter seat. The Stock transfercases have a plastic shifter socket and a rubber seat like the trannies. After asking Marlin, BigMike offered to meetup with me to hand deliver a part to see if it would work. BIG props to Mike. Turns out the shift socket for the transmissions does not fit a pushbutton t-case.

BUT, I dug deeper as the knuckleheads at the dealer were giving me the wrong number. It looks like for a regular J-Shift Tacoma transfercase, 95-2004, the shifter seat used is part number 33548-31010. This is the same exact seat that Marlin offers the upgrade for. It fits nearly every Toyota tranny. I have the pushbutton t-case. The part number for this is 33548-30010. This number crosses to a L54 socket.



On the left is the upgraded shifter socket from Marlin, that fits trannies and probably J-Shift cases. On the right is the L54 bushing that fits the pushbutton tcases.

Here's the shifter end with the seats installed. Just add some grease and pop them on.



The blue shifter seat (39mm) that Marlin offers fits the t-case perfectly. In Marlins instructions for the tranny, it says the rubber seal underneath is not used. The blue seat is actually the same height as the stock seat, so I left the rubber seal in place.

Took the truck for a shin, and it was still making noise. I think I pinpointed it down to my crawl box.

Took the crawl box shifter off and peeked inside. All the gears were fine, oil was at the right level, and nothing was wobbly. One thing I did notice is the big idler gear has very slight play. I cant remember if it had slight play when I installed it. I did however find that the shift rail had some play side to side and forward and back. I removed the detend spring and stretched it out a little bit. This took the slop up and made the shifter tight again. Crossing my fingers this solves the noise issue.

My shift linkage was also worn out and bent. It was becoming a pain in the ass to engage the rear case. So a newer, better, redesigned linkage was in order. New is installed, black bent up one is the old.



The Heims are 1/4" Precision high strength heims from FK, Mod JFX4. The rating is around 6,000 lbs :grinpimp:.

I remembered I had a 1/2" copper pipe bender in the garage, so I used that to do all the bends. I then cut the ends and grinded square. Then took a 1/4-28 grade 8 bolt, and cut the head off. Drilled a 1/4" bole 1/4" deep in each end of the linkage. Set the screw in place and welded on. Bolted it up to the shifters and it is SOLID. no play like the old setup. It's also way easier to shift.



Not only does it bend bend to the left as you look from the top down, the back end of it closest to the t-case is bent upwards. This is so that it can fit underneath the sheet metal. Otherwise, I would not be able to seal everything back up. The picture doesn't quite show it well though, but it just clears the boot on the t-case in high range, and clears the sheet metal tunnel by 1/4"
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,213 Posts
Discussion Starter #780
Busy, busy weekend. I think I'm pretty much ready for Marlin Roundup now. Just have to pack...

I needed to build a platform before the roundup. Laid everything out...



Beginning to take shape:





The CO2 tank holder is screwed down to the frame. The HiLift is secured using two 1/2" carriage bolts. The 2X4 has a routed joint that allows the side pieces to hinge towards the middle.



Like so:



Middle pieces done:



One problem wheeling was my oil and spare lubes, would get thrown around and leak. Made a well to hold it..



Being I still need this truck to haul my dirtbike. The middle panels come out. The rear two come out. The middle divider unbolts and comes out.



More compartments:




Today I modified my softtopper. I didn't want to use velcro to secure the rear piece. I bought some high powered magnets, 1/8" thick.



Here you can see the driver side done, and the pass side not done. They sit in between the velcro and canvas



How was it done? Simple. Cut out about 5-6 loops on the velcro side.



Lightly pull the thread to expose the cut threads. Don't pull too much, it won't look right in the end.



Add some sealant/glue down the pocket, and slip your magnet in



And sew it back up. I did it by hand with a needle, thread and a thimble. I started by feeding in the thread from the velcro side, to the canvas side, then went over the thread and back down from the canvas side to the velcro side. Here's the needle punching back down (this style is how softoper did the threads originally)



Repeat till you get to the original thread. Because I was using thin thread, I doubled back.



Here's the finished velcro side



And the finished canvas side



And how the rear piece now lays on the tailgate. Some weight on the end now, and it securely clips to the tailgate.



All done!

 
761 - 780 of 801 Posts
Top